|
Thanks everyone for the ideas, this is great feedback for myself and future DIYers. It seems a lot of people are pointing to the two jack method. Also good to know the camber bolt method can be used in a pinch.
I ended up not doing any of those but I grabbed a buddy and had a go at it the next day and got it in after about 20 minutes. All I needed was to remove the damper first, then have my friend force the bolt through with a mallet while I tugged outwards on the wheel hub (toe out). Also what worked best for me was having the jack inline with the camber arm (from under the car towards the wheel), but not sure if that made a huge difference.
I did try loosening the camber bolt but I couldn't get it to budge. It's hard to do if you're working under the car with just jackstands. I didn't want to use the impact on the eccentric bolt. Luckily the brute force method did the trick pretty quickly once I got help.
For the record I'm working on a driveway with a very very slight incline. I'm thinking that might be contributing to the issue. I'll have a go at the other wheel tomorrow and see if I need help again.
Also side note - I was wondering about the rear ride height for a while now as there seems to be a lot of posts re ST XA coilovers having a very low minimum drop setting. I wanted to keep the ride height similar to my eibach sportlines (advertised 20mm drop). The ST website advertises a minimum 30mm drop, so I was expecting the new coils to drop more than the sportlines.
So I set the coils at the max of the adjustment range of 40mm. After dropping the car, and riding it around the block, I found the ride height was almost 23mm higher than the eibach sportlines, the gap looked huge! Also, comparing the new coil springs with my old sportlines, it definitely looks like the sportlines are significantly shorter than the STXA, so I don't think it's from an installation problem, that's just how they are. Anyway I'll know for sure once I put on the other side.
|