[BB_cuda]

You sound like a kid waiting to go inside the candy store and it's 10 minutes before opening time. Pack your patience for the pig Errr DPF reinstall. I plugged the 2 unused EGT ports with some stainless screws from Ace H/w. I think they were m12x1.25 though pitch might be 1.5 as I forget. Take DPF to store with you to get proper ones. It is okay. I will go see what that size is if I get a chance. I did need a washer to keep bolt from bottoming out.

[OR335d]

Welding shop says Friday. No, not anxious at all. (Sarcasm) Wife is getting tired of the car being up on four jack stands in the garage. The Toyota MR2 Spyder doesn't do so well for shopping. No trunk and no space inside.

I'll take your advice and the DPF to the hardware store.

[atwal187]

Goodluck with the project, you're gonna love the outcome 😄

[OR335d]

I'm from the middle of Oregon. Anyone else in my area? I see a lot of posts up in BC or down in California.

[atwal187]

I'm in Surrey bc , so basically Blaine/Bellingham area is a 30 min drive from me

[BB_cuda]

As promised, here are some things you might do with your gutted DPF. You are of course free to continue to use the EGTs as "poser plugs". I chose to simplify matters and put bolts into the 2nd EGT and 3rd EGT with M12x1.25 bolts. I needed a washer to keep from bottoming out in the EGT bungs.

On to the Nox sensor bung down on the bottom. I used a M20x1.5 bolt. It was too long and I planned to use a copper crush washer for a good seal. Follow along in the attached pictures. I bought a M20x1.5 jam nut (thinner than normal nut). The concept is to put the nut on and then use a grinder to shorten the length and then use the nut to deburr the thread. I dunked the whole thing in water many many times to cool it off between grinds. I ground on the side of the wheel rather than the radial face of the grinding wheel to keep grinding flat on the bolt's end.

I ground until the bolt with washer was ~0.354" but shoot for about 0.350".

The washer was too small ID so I had to modify it as well. I used a dremel with a ceramic grinding cylinder for a while until it opened up big enough to switch over to a sand paper cylinder/grinder on the dremel. I also used a round hand file at the very end of the job as I burnt up my dremel's motor today. This job wasn't the cause. The tool was about 20 years old and I got it too hot after many years of use/abuse. It was time for a new one anyway.

Ask questions if my story is unclear. Also, I like to use antiseaze on the threads of all of these plugs. That is what you see on the threads of the older M20 plug I made about 2 years ago that was used on my OEM exhaust (back bung) after NOx sensor removal. The picture is labeled wrong (I will correct this). The OEM bungs have a bottom floor in them necessitating shortened bolts. The Ecotune bung had no floor.

[OR335d]

I hope you didn't make all the pictures and measurements just for me. Your attention to detail is impressive.

Just got the exhaust back from the welding shop, a day early. Have other plans for tonight, but will be back under the car tomorrow evening. Attached a photo of what $60 in welding will get you.

[BB_cuda]

OR335d, Your activities did spur me to write down my way of plugging the ports up. Many new folks coming here that hadn't likely seen where I discussed this in a nother thread about 2 years ago. So, I thought it worth while for all of the recent recruits to get the info. Yes, I'm a details kind of guy and strive to explain where "you get it the first time" from me. I just hadn't learned how to load a video into youtube yet :-)

I do have a follow up question for you. Can you show the other side of the DPF please? I see the new weld close to the turbo flange. Did you cut all the way around the DPF up in that front area? I would think the DOC is still in the way then to bust out the DPF's filter. Perhaps I'm missing something. That SCR weld looks really good to me.

[OR335d]

Really wish I had taken a picture at that point. The cut is all the way around, about 3/4" from the factory weld. The 2" of DOC stayed firmly attached to the end cap piece, without touching the sides of the large chamber at all. It surprised me. I expected to take out the DOC due to where I had cut it, but since it was solidly in place and un-damaged I kept it in.

Not taking pictures is a problem for me. Of the 5 houses I've built for me, the wife and kids, there are a couple with only a few photos during construction. Too busy getting the project done to worry about documenting the process. Kinda like my car. Doing the job right, but anxious for completion.

I imagine after test driving tomorrow (fingers crossed) I'll be looking for drag slicks on Sunday, along with learning about doing some coding on the car. Oh yeah, also need to check into a stepped intercooler.

[dmanb2b]

Originally Posted by OR335d

Really wish I had taken a picture at that point. The cut is all the way around, about 3/4" from the factory weld. The 2" of DOC stayed firmly attached to the end cap piece, without touching the sides of the large chamber at all. It surprised me. I expected to take out the DOC due to where I had cut it, but since it was solidly in place and un-damaged I kept it in.

Not taking pictures is a problem for me. Of the 5 houses I've built for me, the wife and kids, there are a couple with only a few photos during construction. Too busy getting the project done to worry about documenting the process. Kinda like my car. Doing the job right, but anxious for completion.

I imagine after test driving tomorrow (fingers crossed) I'll be looking for drag slicks on Sunday, along with learning about doing some coding on the car. Oh yeah, also need to check into a stepped intercooler.

FWIW...keep electronics coding to minimum. Our FRM module has a tendency to go bad. I coded my signals to blink 5 times and then stopped as I did not want to push my luck.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by OR335d

Oh yeah, also need to check into a stepped intercooler.

Look up the unit from iaknown. It's one helluva quality unit.

[OR335d]

Project done for now. With so many systems touched, I was a little worried something wouldn't be working right when it was done. Started immediately, dash cleared up after a couple starts and a clock set. Had a little time on dry pavement, but kept it civil until a little more proving is done. Sound is great, smells about like my '04 Superduty used to. My guess is the power is about as advertised. I'm looking into a local dyno to do a couple test pulls. Anxious for good weather and some more driving. Thanks to AA for answering all my questions so quickly and working around the Christmas holiday. Thanks to everyone else on your advice.

What should I do next?

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by OR335d

Project done for now.

What should I do next?

EGR blocked yet?
Oil catch can installed?
As yozh mentioned, check into the Helix IC that Iaknown offers. AAR also has ICs since you're working with him.

[OR335d]

EGR blocked. I'll look into the oil catch can and then the intercooler. Not to distract from this thread, but I've searched for the "neutral and coast" thing, but can't find out what it does or how to do it.

Any help?

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by pbdm4k

I'm running a Diesel Cat with a 3" Magnaflow resonator.

I was pure straight pipe from the turbo all the way back prior. The sound and smells were very much night and day difference.

It still smells, but it's much more bearable.

There was a noticeable drop off on acceleration immediately after putting the cat on, but the car is still plenty fast.

I used to have giant white clouds out the back when I launched it, not so much anymore, but still some smoke when pressing on it.

Similar to you having the DOC intact, I'm curious if the cat is going to get plugged up one day and I'll notice a drop off.

Do you mind showing us a picture of where and how your Magnaflow fits into your car? I recall those being big if its the one I had found. I went with the OEM DOC as I wanted gases at high temp when being oxidized by the cat. The further downstream you get from the turbo, the more the exhaust gas cools. How about a picture please sir.

[_bryan_]

Sorry to bring back up an old thread but it's the only one I can find discussing this exact topic.

I'm looking to gut out my DPF and weld it back up.

The question I have is what have others done with the 3 connections that plug into the unit? I see on this thread someone has bunged them up, what is the benefit of this over just plugging them back in? And what has been done with the connections just tie them off to one side or unplug the other end?

Thanks,
Bryan.

[BB_cuda]

Hi Bryan- I did a bit of both. I left EGT#2 plugged into harness but used the M12x1.25 plugs. I tied both EGT#2 and #3 with zip ties. I did remove the front NOX sensor completely. The opposite end of it is mounted on a plate right by the fuel filter (driver side of transmission).

[wjperdue]

DO you still have the gutted dpf?

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by wjperdue

DO you still have the gutted dpf?

Yes. 22,000 miles driven on it now. Still smooth sailing.

[jonatang]

Originally Posted by OR335d

Really wish I had taken a picture at that point. The cut is all the way around, about 3/4" from the factory weld. The 2" of DOC stayed firmly attached to the end cap piece, without touching the sides of the large chamber at all. It surprised me. I expected to take out the DOC due to where I had cut it, but since it was solidly in place and un-damaged I kept it in.

Not taking pictures is a problem for me. Of the 5 houses I've built for me, the wife and kids, there are a couple with only a few photos during construction. Too busy getting the project done to worry about documenting the process. Kinda like my car. Doing the job right, but anxious for completion.

I imagine after test driving tomorrow (fingers crossed) I'll be looking for drag slicks on Sunday, along with learning about doing some coding on the car. Oh yeah, also need to check into a stepped intercooler.

Hello, I know some time has passed since this was posted. But, this is one of the very few threads i could find where the removal of the DPF while keeping the DOC in place was documented like this. Especially for BMW.

I recently bought a -11 320d and now I need to "take care" of my DPF system. I would like to keep the DOC in place as long as it is not too clogged up, just like I understand you did. I have tried to do my own research on wether to get rid of the DOC or not but every other shop I've contacted says either to absolutely keep it, or to definitely remove it.

My question is if you have any experiences of long term ownership on wether the DOC becomes "the next problem" as regenerations arent carried out any more or if it has been problem free since you did your DPF delete.

Thanks in advance!
Jonatan

[lnxguy]

It's a diesel cat, it will be just fine without regens. Just make sure you remove/gut the SCR as that can lead to problems down the road.