[jetdriven]

Originally Posted by seccsc

My lessons from this install.
-Be careful while attaching the coolant lines for the transmission. Tightening the fitting inserts too much caused them to leak.

-The radiator drain plug comes in contact with the OEM Intercooler and not allowing full insertion of the driver side Intercooler mounting screw.


Also, a few weeks after the install I've had the dreaded 2EF4 Map Thermostat Mechanics code. It's weird this issue surfaced not too long after the install and this thermostat is only two years old.

Mine is too, in weather cooler than 60F. The coolant temp never gets over 70C in fact, on the highway, leading to terrible gas mileage and 170F oil temps.

The CSF radiator eliminates the OEM coolant sleeve, which means water bypasses the thermostat. Im waiting on a call back from CSF tech support but he already said that its not an issue and if I cant live with no heater in DC, to stuff cardboard in front of the radiator to warm it up.
THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE.

[seccsc]

Originally Posted by jetdriven

Mine is too, in weather cooler than 60F. The coolant temp never gets over 70C in fact, on the highway, leading to terrible gas mileage and 170F oil temps.

The CSF radiator eliminates the OEM coolant sleeve, which means water bypasses the thermostat. Im waiting on a call back from CSF tech support but he already said that its not an issue and if I cant live with no heater in DC, to stuff cardboard in front of the radiator to warm it up.
THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE.

My car still warms up to the proper oil (230F) and coolant temperature.
Try shutting off your AC and see how the car reacts.
Let me know if you get more information from CSF.

[rgfinn76]

I am about to replace my radiator and had a quick question. The second hose on the passenger side below the bottom radiator hose, where does this go to?

It the hose in this pic label second hose secured by a T25.

[IllSic_Design]

That hose connects to the thermostat.

[Shrouded]

I recently had to replace my radiator with the fan as well. Everything worked fine until it didnt and my car overheated lol. Turns out my fan doesnt work. I replaced it with a new fan and still no success. It appears my problem is their is no power coming from the plug, so im currently trying to figure that out. So make sure EVERYTHING works before you go out on the road or youll end up stuck on the side of the road like I did. lol. Good luck!

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by Shrouded

I recently had to replace my radiator with the fan as well. Everything worked fine until it didnt and my car overheated lol. Turns out my fan doesnt work. I replaced it with a new fan and still no success. It appears my problem is their is no power coming from the plug, so im currently trying to figure that out. So make sure EVERYTHING works before you go out on the road or youll end up stuck on the side of the road like I did. lol. Good luck!

Fan is turned on by a coolant temp sensor, so maybe that is the reason your original fan wasn't working

[TomsTT335I]

Hi Guys my 1st post just got a 07 335i, I have 3 questions I was going to buy a CSF radiator then I read this post.

1. What exactly is this coolant OEM sleeve missing on the CSF radiator? So other replacements are not missing this? I need a heater for sure! So don't buy the CSF? Have others had the same issue? Seems strange.

"The CSF radiator eliminates the OEM coolant sleeve, which means water bypasses the thermostat. Im waiting on a call back from CSF tech support but he already said that its not an issue and if I cant live with no heater in DC, to stuff cardboard in front of the radiator to warm it up.
THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE."

2.The auto trans cooling lines, it was talked about unhooking them with a special tool. Then it was said you don't need one. Dont you just unbolt from the radiator and leave the lines hooked up? Then just bolt it to the new radiator? are there O rings on this that need replaced?

3. Part numbers for the o rings that I would need, questions were asked and I'm not sure now what o-rings are needed. How many o-rings total for this job? Where is the best place to order these at?
Thanks again for your help!

[Southern_Driver]

Originally Posted by TomsTT335I

Hi Guys my 1st post just got a 07 335i, I have 3 questions I was going to buy a CSF radiator then I read this post.

1. What exactly is this coolant OEM sleeve missing on the CSF radiator? So other replacements are not missing this? I need a heater for sure! So don't buy the CSF? Have others had the same issue? Seems strange.

"The CSF radiator eliminates the OEM coolant sleeve, which means water bypasses the thermostat. Im waiting on a call back from CSF tech support but he already said that its not an issue and if I cant live with no heater in DC, to stuff cardboard in front of the radiator to warm it up.
THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE."

2.The auto trans cooling lines, it was talked about unhooking them with a special tool. Then it was said you don't need one. Dont you just unbolt from the radiator and leave the lines hooked up? Then just bolt it to the new radiator? are there O rings on this that need replaced?

3. Part numbers for the o rings that I would need, questions were asked and I'm not sure now what o-rings are needed. How many o-rings total for this job? Where is the best place to order these at?
Thanks again for your help!

Did you ever find anything out on this? Did you get a CSF radiator?

[chiaobaby]

Originally Posted by Southern_Driver

Did you ever find anything out on this? Did you get a CSF radiator?

I just replaced my radiator 08 335i Automatic trans CSF 7046 all aluminum direct replacement fits well no issues .

[Southern_Driver]

Originally Posted by chiaobaby

I just replaced my radiator 08 335i Automatic trans CSF 7046 all aluminum direct replacement fits well no issues .

Thanks! I don't think I'm looking to upgrade to all aluminum but I do need an oe replacement, it looks like I'll be going with this one:https://www.ecstuning.com/b-csf-part...2009/3717~csf/ and see what happens.

[zz6938]

Originally Posted by Southern_Driver

Thanks! I don't think I'm looking to upgrade to all aluminum but I do need an oe replacement, it looks like I'll be going with this one:https://www.ecstuning.com/b-csf-part...2009/3717~csf/ and see what happens.

Any update on your install? Fitment worked? any issues?

[marcmac360]

I did a radiator replacement last weekend. All in all, it wasn't too difficult. I left my plastic shield off from a previous job so altogether my swap took at most 2.5 hours.

Quick points to share

- I used a CSF radiator that is supposedly specific to the manual transmission, it was a direct OEM fit.

- While wiggling the broken radiator free, I suggest turning it slightly counterclockwise to have the lower hose point empty out remaining coolant. Do this with your coolant bucket under it. I found out the hard way there was still coolant in it when wiggling it free and made a mess.

[Southern_Driver]

Originally Posted by zz6938

Any update on your install? Fitment worked? any issues?

Sorry, it's been a while! I've been super busy and I ended up just jb welding the plastic piece that cracked and it's been holding up well so far(I know that it could crack further at any time but I'm prepared to deal with that if it happens). Right now I'm just waiting on summer so I can have a few days off to replace it.

[Aen]

Just put a new radiator in my 2007 328i and everything has lined up perfect..until I arrived at the bottom passenger side clip connector. On the clip connectors you'll notice the 2 slots you have to line up for them to go on..well they don't line up. What do you guys suggest I do?

[iwantaw335]

Thanks for the write up! I swapped my radiator as a preventative maintenance. When performing the bleeding procedure my pump stop prematurely. Probably only lasted 1 minute. I have done this procedure a few times before and it lasts about 10 mins. Anyone know why it's stopping prematurely?

TIA

[iwantaw335]

The battery was low, fully charged and able to run bleeding process fine

[bimmerfan1972]

Good post. I used a few of the pictures to find the screws holding the fan on.

[tip_m]

Thanks for all the tips. While changing the water pump/thermostat on mine I ended up needing to remove the radiator to be able to replace the upper/lower radiator hoses; they were not budging and had no leverage while installed.
Following the suggestion of others also changed both o-rings for the transmission coolant lines. P/N 17111711987 for both left/right sides.

[mweisdorfer]

You can't use a CSF radiator, if you have OEM location upgraded inlets. The CSF radiator is wider than the OEM radiator. Thus the silicone inlet will be pushed into the pulleys.

You can make the shape of the inlet from a circle to an oval where the pulleys are & zip tie it to the fan shroud, but personally I'd just get relocation inlets.

Also, if your car is a DD and you live in a state that has 4 seasons with "cold" winters, your car will tAke extra long to heat up. Aka defrost mode might be an issue if you car is outside.

[Mr-Toast001]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

I replaced the 2 o-rings suggested with brand new OEM o-rings(into new behr radiator) and my connections are still leaking. Do you think i tightened the screw holding the fittings too much? Im going to try messing with those if not ill try thicker o-rings from an auto parts store. The o-rings/fittings seemed to slide into my new radiator very easily also.

I know this is an old thread, but maybe the following info helps someone.

I had exactly the same problem. I replaced the whole connector (P/N 17117548104) and also the hose (P/N 17117541143). Still had leaks…

So I opted to buy some bigger o-rings. I ended up using Victor-Reinz P/N 40-76337-00. They are 15x2.5mm inner diameter, while the OEM BMW is 14.5x2.5mm. So it‘s just a little bigger, while the thickness is the same. The fittment is much better (not loose anymore) and there are no leaks anymore.