[R1CKSO]

Hello guys my name is Ricardo,
I just purchased my dream car (on Friday 13th, lucky day lol) an 08’ E92 M3 alpine Weiss manual competition pack,
Love the car, it has almost 100k miles on the clock but overall in good shape, no engine codes at the moment (knock on wood) but I’m having a perisistent issue that I can’t fix, so far what I’ve done to the car is an EDC module delete trough coding, previous owner looks that had coilovers fitted (haven’t really check which brand are they but they are working fine atm, rears are a bit clunky but want to address this issue first) and KW EDC modules installed(3 of them are still connected of that makes a difference or if they draw power?), I decided to fully code out EDC because I was sometimes getting EDC malfunction messages on the I drive screen and kombi and don’t plan to run active suspension, I first only disconnected the blue connector on the module as per forums and left the white connector plugged, since purchasing the car I noticed that everyday the car would lose the time and I had to set it daily and even a few times a day, I assumed the battery was bad, purchased a new non AGM replacement, group 49, 850 CCA, reserve power capacity 150 min, I coded it with PROTOOLS, using the non AGM 90ah option using the following formula that I found on one of the forums (reserve capacity/2)+16 don’t really know if that’s correct way of calculating it since the battery manufacturer doesn’t list the ah rating, using that formula it resulted in 91ah so I used the non agm 90ah option on protools as closest, the procedure and registration turned out to be a success, also since I purchased the car I noticed a lose connector on the battery compartment which then I finally found it connected to the IBS sensor, noticed that if I plugged to IBS sensor car won’t start, so assumed IBS was bad, replaced it with a used unit now car starts even with the IBS plugged, but since I registered and coded the battery without the IBS plugged don’t know if that makes a difference at all. Also a few lights on the car were not working, trunk portion of the taillight, LED was dead, purchased a used one, fixed, main taillight had loose connector, re seated it, all bulbs working and LED bar as well, right side grill vent indicator, replaced and working. So every exterior light is working.
Also when coding the EDC module and loading changes, a new problem started to happen as both windows where not learning the position procedure and remained shut, not even INPA could initiate the windows, re loaded the MAN file, problem fixed, hasn’t returned since.
Read on here that the EDC module when failed, could cause parasitic loss, removed the white connector too then, thinking that would be the cause of power loss or high discharge levels messages on iDrive, problem still persists.
I can 99% (although my electrical knowledge is very limited) that new battery is good because with the CTEK charger stays on step 7, but still getting the code and clock resets several times a day even with the CTEK connected.
As I said my electrical knowledge is very limited, can barely use a multimeter, but this time looks I need to up my game if I want to fix this problem of power loss even with a new battery.
Another problem but I don’t think is related, is that both seatbelt carriers were not working, checked the fuse it looked ok, INPA could not trigger the carriers as well, turned out to be that probably both LCPA modules were bad, I have only replaced driver’s side module with a used module it’s working now, don’t know about passenger side but looks like the same situation.
Only error codes appearing are 5E43, 94B5 which are related to the steering system which does sometimes my car does get the lights on the dashboard and iDrive, but I attribute this to misalignment, dead tie rods or rack failure, I have a spare rack in case which was going on my 135i as I’m doing a full 1M conversion soon, but can use that rack with new tierods if the e92s rack is done. Haven’t investigated that much since this battery messages are driving me nuts, and specially having to set the time every hour.
Other present codes are, A559 stating KOMBI lost power if I’m not mistaken,
EDC CDB7 which I read no one really can get rid of after EDC coding out.
DAD2 which has something to do with the radio antenna.
A670
One AUC sensor fault but can’t remember the code sorry.
A few comfort access codes regarding an antenna but I believe that has to do with the window tint, don’t know if comfort access is indeed working since this is my first BMW with that feature but haven’t investigated on that regard since I don’t know how comfort access works lol.
Haven’t checked for blown fuses on the glovebox but planning to do that today just in case.
Noticed that there’s also a faint but noticeably fan noise or something similar coming from the radio/ AC controls area, it lasts for a very long time and as far as I know it never stops, don’t know if that could also be a possible cause of battery drain.

I’m used to the pain life as a 500whp N54 owner, but electrical gremlins always scare me because my experience is non existent.

I know this is a very lenghty post but I wanted to give as much detail as possible on my 10 day ownership, what have I done to the car and history to rule out as much possible. Hope someone can help me.

I really appreciate all the help and most importantly thanks for reading this huge mess.

I know this is more the N series engine but didn’t receive much input over on the M3 section, but maybe can chime in

[R1CKSO]

I think the problem might lie in here, looks like someone has been here and messed the wiring, the IBS wiring is connected with those quick cramp connectors but not only that, the white wire with blue stripe is connected to a yellow one, so maybe that’s why when I plug the IBS it reads massive drain and it’s reporting wrong? The bad thing is don’t see the white cable with blue stripe coming from the front so maybe they messed something there, where does this harness go and where can I look for this pin?

Thank you.

[R1CKSO]

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