[ap0902]

I have a 2007 328i that i purchased a few months ago, all was good and the car ran perfectly until some water leaked into the E-Box during a heavy rainstorm causing my DME to short, and also caused a crank no start symptom. Before I pulled the DME I checked codes and got 2AA3, 2A9A, and 2A3F. So I purchased a good DME and had it coded to the car, plugged it in cleared the codes and still crank no start. I have tested the fuses on the power distribution box, I’m getting 12 volts across the fuse box and checked all fuses, I’ve tried swapping the J box with another unit to make sure that wasn’t damaged, replaced both relays in the E box and checked fuses, and Lastly I have checked continuity from the fuse box to the E box and it’s good. I have 5 volts coming from the signal wire and only 2.6 volts from the power wire on both camshaft sensors so I assume that’s the issue. I have access to ISTA but minor experience and a multimeter, any advice or help on this issue will be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Attached are the current codes I have, disregard the headlight codes.

[ptpending]

it is not enough to code used dme to operate
this is possibly only if unit is shipped from bmw dealer with like new firmware
after first install and coding such unit it takes the security information which allow to start engine
you need to contact bmw indy electric who could virginise your unit, this is possible these days
so could you show how was damaged your original DME and what codes you have when is was installed and all inactive codes cleared ?

[ap0902]

So to clarify, the DME coding is preventing the car to start and I can take it to my Indy shop to have them sort it out. I never saved the codes from when I had the old DME in the car but I can tell you the codes are very similar. Thank you for your help in this, the car is too nice to just part out or sell as is so I’m trying everything I can to save it!

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by ap0902

... 2007 328i [6/2007 build] ... some water leaked into the E-Box during a heavy rainstorm causing my DME to short, and also caused a crank no start symptom. Before I pulled the DME I checked codes and got 2AA3, 2A9A, and 2A3F. So I purchased a good DME and had it coded to the car, plugged it in cleared the codes and still crank no start... I have access to ISTA but minor experience and a multimeter, any advice or help on this issue will be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Attached are the current codes I have...

You need to get the CAS & Replacement DME synchronized. Most "Module Repair" shops will do that for moderate fee if you send them CAS, DME & Key. The CAS module controls starter cranking. That's OK. However, the CAS & DME need to execute a "handshake", or Challenge & Response. Until that "handshake" is properly completed, the DME won't Activate. You get no Spark or Injector pulse.

Your ISTA photo shows there are 16 faults on all modules (DME, DSC, EGS & FRM), but you only show 12. Are there other DME faults that you do NOT show? Also, check fuse F78 (30A) on the JB Fuse Panel. Check that it is getting battery voltage when Ignition is ON. That is the fuse powered by the DME Main Relay when it is activated.

See attached pdf, Fault Memory & Test Plan, for HOW to use "Test Plan" to get MORE information on the fault that is preventing DME Activation. Your DME Main Relay is NOT being Activated (2ACB). That is the code you show that is the primary fault. If you have questions on HOW to use Test Plan, please post back.
George