[dkushnir]

Back story, purchased a salvage 335i e93 2007 6at off copart. Drove car back home from los angeles, to North Carolina.
Car has been great last 8 months.

Now FF to 2 weeks ago, driving up a curvy mountain road with a friend behind me in his WRX, i get to the top first. And shut my car off within 60 seconds of getting there.
Friend arrives a min later, we relax for a few min then decide to head out.

I push pedal in, push start, and all i get is a click...
Must be a starter right? Use my friends car jack handel to tap on the starter. No start... just a click and water pump running.

Get it towed back to the house. Amazon delivers my new starter. Charge up the battery on trickle charge tested 12.4v 686 cold crank amps.

Charged battery, new starter, 50A main fuse good. Ibs hooked up and battery registered, all connections tightened, left side ground strap intact and good continuity.

STILL NO START,
the only code i have is
29e2 DME: fuel injector rail, pressure-sensor signal
2a17: DME: DMTL, system fault

Any advice or help would be apreciated, im good at diy, and working a a college budget.

[dpaul]

Might want to check the bottom of battery compartment for water. The main positive lead off the battery supplying power to the starter is relatively short and is bolted to a through-connector at the bottom of the battery compartment. Water can accumulate in there and corrode the connector.

Then you get a click at best or nothing at all. Still get all the dash lights and accessories working normally since they get power via a different circuit. May get a hint about this by measuring the voltage at the jumper point in engine compartment. If it is low compared to the battery, this could be your problem

[White330]

Have you tried disconnecting the IBS?

[dkushnir]

Ill pull my battery out to look for corrosion underneath, i have tried disconnecting the IBS sensor with no luck.

[JuniorB]

If you have all your power, hot jump the starter, this will tell you if you need to go further.

[dkushnir]

Originally Posted by JuniorB

If you have all your power, hot jump the starter, this will tell you if you need to go further.

How do i jump the starter? All my connections have power.
1.4 v on starter before cranking. While cranking .8-.9 v
Not enough power?

[dkushnir]

Update, ive got the car started.
There are two wires comming from the jump terminal under the hood. The 10mm terminal had 12.5v and the 13mm terminal had 1.4v.
Unbolted the thick wire and bolted it to the thin one.
Car starts up.
But i dont want to burn my DME power supply.
So currently the car is sitting with the battery unhooked. and the starter cable unbolted.
Any suggestions?

Ps. The 13mm terminal tested to have 11.7v once the starter cable was unhooked, contacting the starter cable to the terminal caused the voltage to drop to 1.4v

Any suggestions?

[roadkillrob]

Originally Posted by dkushnir

Update, ive got the car started.
There are two wires comming from the jump terminal under the hood. The 10mm terminal had 12.5v and the 13mm terminal had 1.4v.
Unbolted the thick wire and bolted it to the thin one.
Car starts up.
But i dont want to burn my DME power supply.
So currently the car is sitting with the battery unhooked. and the starter cable unbolted.
Any suggestions?

Ps. The 13mm terminal tested to have 11.7v once the starter cable was unhooked, contacting the starter cable to the terminal caused the voltage to drop to 1.4v

Any suggestions?

That would seem to indicate there is a short between that terminal and the starter, so recheck your install make sure you wired the starter properly and it isn’t grounding to something at the positive terminal on the starter, it is possible to ground it to the casing if bent. Otherwise test the positive terminal continuity to the starter housing could be a bad starter with a short.

[JuniorB]

So your able to insert fob, turn acc.position, push start and nothing happen, but if you jump the starter it will start? . The next step is, there is the small gauge wire that sends key on power to the solenoid to engage starter. If there's no power from that wire when you push the starter, then it's between there and the key. This can be a few things. If you have power there when you hit the start, then you may have a bad starter. This is depending if you powered the solenoid or the motor itself.

[dpaul]

If moving the wire from the 13mm terminal to the 10mm terminal allows the car to start, then there is nothing wrong with either the wire to the starter, the starter, the solenoid or anything to do with the key circuitry. There is likely corrosion related to the larger terminal or the wire bringing power from the battery to the larger terminal.

Carefully inspect the pictures I've linked below. If you don't have 12+ volts at the larger terminal (after removing nut and wire and carefully wire brushing everything to be free of corrosion), then you have a problem with the wire from the battery bringing current to that terminal.

There are two pieces of wire to be concerned about 1) a short wire from the battery to the thru terminal at the bottom of the batter compartment (#4 in the diagram in the first link). 2) a long wire from the outside of the battery compartment to the engine compartment (#1 in the diagram in the first link). The long wire (#1 in the first link) connects up behind the jump point in the engine compartment (#1 in the second link). The third link shows the wire that goes from the B+ terminal in the engine compartment (#1 in second link) to the starter and then on to the alternator. That's the only one you can actually see with the hood up. Unlikely that one is the problem here. Another simple test you can do: connect positive lead from a jumper cable to the positive terminal of the battery in the trunk. Connect other end of the positive lead of the jumper cable to the jump point in the engine compartment. If the engine starts, than your problem is likely the one I suggested in my first post.

So why did you see 11.7 volts on the jumper point which dropped to 1.4v atter re-connecting the starter cable? Because you put a load on the circuit that has a fairly high resistance due to broken wire/connector or corrosion. In any case 11.7v is not enough. If you have 12.6 at the battery, you must have 12.6 at the jumper point or else there is a problem in that circuit.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=61_1946

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=61_1859

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=12_1339

[dkushnir]

There are two pieces of wire to be concerned about 1) a short wire from the battery to the thru terminal at the bottom of the batter compartment.

You guys are the best! I dont know why i didnt check earlier!
This wire was so corroded that when i touched it with my finger, it fell off. So i went to advanced bought a new cable end, cut and cleand 1" off of the cable. Crimped on the new end, added solder, and then wraped it in electrical tape. Reassembled everything, registeres the battery, and it started first try.

Now the car has a half engine light, with a code, 29E2 DME: Fuel injector rairail pressur sensor signal
Also the radiator fan spins at high rpm immediately after startup, any suggestions on what i can do here?

[dkushnir]

Originally Posted by dpaul

If moving the wire from the 13mm terminal to the 10mm terminal allows the car to start, then there is nothing wrong with either the wire to the starter, the starter, the solenoid or anything to do with the key circuitry. There is likely corrosion related to the larger terminal or the wire bringing power from the battery to the larger terminal.

Carefully inspect the pictures I've linked below. If you don't have 12+ volts at the larger terminal (after removing nut and wire and carefully wire brushing everything to be free of corrosion), then you have a problem with the wire from the battery bringing current to that terminal.

There are two pieces of wire to be concerned about 1) a short wire from the battery to the thru terminal at the bottom of the batter compartment (#4 in the diagram in the first link). 2) a long wire from the outside of the battery compartment to the engine compartment (#1 in the diagram in the first link). The long wire (#1 in the first link) connects up behind the jump point in the engine compartment (#1 in the second link). The third link shows the wire that goes from the B+ terminal in the engine compartment (#1 in second link) to the starter and then on to the alternator. That's the only one you can actually see with the hood up. Unlikely that one is the problem here. Another simple test you can do: connect positive lead from a jumper cable to the positive terminal of the battery in the trunk. Connect other end of the positive lead of the jumper cable to the jump point in the engine compartment. If the engine starts, than your problem is likely the one I suggested in my first post.

So why did you see 11.7 volts on the jumper point which dropped to 1.4v atter re-connecting the starter cable? Because you put a load on the circuit that has a fairly high resistance due to broken wire/connector or corrosion. In any case 11.7v is not enough. If you have 12.6 at the battery, you must have 12.6 at the jumper point or else there is a problem in that circuit.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=61_1946

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=61_1859

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=12_1339

The short battery wire was the issue, ive fixed it!
Thank you!

[dpaul]

Low voltage causes all kinds of odd error codes .
Try resetting the error memory and see what, if anything, recurs