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Is it possible to delete just the EGR and keep the other emission components stock?
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10-14-2018, 10:00 PM | #1 |
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Is it possible to delete just the EGR and keep the other emission components stock?
I have a 2013 BMW X5 35D (Diesel) and the EGR cooler recently cracked and will need to be replaced. I understand that this is a common failure on these vehicles and ideally I would like to remove the EGR and cooler completely from the vehicle.
I understand that most owners do a complete delete and remove the DPF as well. I am not ready to do that at this time and would like to keep the DPF for now since it will add quite a bit of additional cost and labor to remove it. My question is can I remove the EGR valves and EGR cooler and then send my ECU in to have the EGR functions tuned out while still retaining the DPF and SCR systems? Will this cause an issues? Also if this is possible to do should I also have the DEF system tuned out so that I do not need to add DEF fluid anymore? I live in an area that does not require emission testing so that is not an issue. It seems that removing the EGR will make the vehicle more reliable and also reduce CBU but I am not sure what effect that will have on the DPF and other critical systems. I am considering purchasing the JR stage 2 tune which will add +70HP +60TQ on stock equipment: http://www.tunemyeuro.com/bmw-x5-35d...jr-autotuning/ And I assume that I will need to purchase the EGR race pipe as well: http://www.tunemyeuro.com/eco-billet...5d-and-x5-35d/ Is there anything that I am missing? Any other suggestions? |
10-15-2018, 04:37 AM | #2 |
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Yes, jr tuning makes a stage “2” tune that only disables the egr and lets you leave the dpf and scr intact. Then you can block the egr, make sure you let them know that you plan to remove the egr with a race pipe i assume.
Anyway there are several folks who have done this. I have been running this exact configuration for over 2 years and probably 30k miles. With no issues attributed to the tune. Other folks have done the same thing. There were some early bugs in this configuration like the dpf not going through regen cycles that have been fixed. |
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10-15-2018, 06:08 AM | #3 |
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If you are considering doing a DPF delete down the line, you should really give more thought to what tune you purchase today. I'm not sure if the JR stage 2 tune allows you to run both configurations (DPF intact and removed), but it if works best with the DPF installed and you decide to remove that down the line, that's an additional $1100 you'll be spending on software (thats assuming JR doesnt have special pricing when upgrading from one stage to another).
Also, a race pipe is not a requirement for any of these tunes. It is my understanding the JR tune just closes the valve on the EGR. I have one of their tunes on my 335D and havent replaced the EGR valve with a race pipe. I do intend on removing it at some point in the future, but I've had no issues keeping the now non functioning EGR cooler and valve still on the car. |
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10-15-2018, 08:38 AM | #4 | |
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Removing the EGR would avoid having to worry about a cracked cooler, but as you say, tuners can adjust the tune for a specific hardware configuration. OP, you can also remove EGR without a tune, but you would have to plug in the EGR valve and ziptie it to the side to avoid limp mode. You would also show an SES light with this method. |
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10-15-2018, 08:48 AM | #5 | |
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Thanks for the tune upgrade confirmation, that info really made my day! |
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10-16-2018, 08:04 AM | #8 |
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I'll also point out the DPF rarely fails on these cars, and removing the DPF and SCR isn't a big performance boost, maybe 15hp, without other mods.
good to know they also offer an EGR and SCR delete with DPF intact. I plan to leave my DPF intact until it fails probably around 150-170K miles (mine was replaced at 25K). The DOC is a must have unless you love breathing unburnt hydrocarbons. |
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10-16-2018, 01:45 PM | #9 | |
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10-16-2018, 04:57 PM | #10 | |
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Wonder what my race pipe is worth in terms of HP vs DPF delete. |
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10-16-2018, 10:33 PM | #11 |
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10-17-2018, 08:35 AM | #12 |
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10-17-2018, 09:31 AM | #13 |
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Thanks for the info. I have decided to purchase the tune and the race pipe. I am taking the EGR and cooler out of the car completely and hopefully this will help with reliability. The DPF filter still has plenty of life left on it and I don't want to remove it right now.
The tuner indicated that I can always upgrade to the next stage tune later if I do remove the DPF and I will only have to pay the difference from the cost of the original tune. Can't wait to get this car back on the road with the additional 70hp! I have been stuck driving a Prius for a week and it's killing me. |
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10-19-2018, 08:39 AM | #14 |
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Yeah I’d kind of like to know as well as I’m running the race pipe. Which race pipe along with a intercooler upgrade is required for stage 2.8 to make advertise power levels. Given the difference between 2.5 and 2.8 is 24hp, I’d say the race pipe is probably worth in the ball park of 5-20hp, as it removes an intake restriction and smooths airflow. Most intercooler upgrades don’t add hp, so much as keep you from loosing it on long pulls. Unless the stock has a ton of pressure drop.
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10-19-2018, 08:44 AM | #15 | |
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Also torque numbers while important to diesel owners really aren’t what determines track times, it’s hp under the curve, while diesel cars can be fast, they can’t rev and don’t have big power bands as a consequence. My X5m is way faster than my 335d even though the d has as much torque and less weight then the x5. It’s becasue the x5 has higher volumetric effiecnecy, aka it can rev and has more power under the curve. Last edited by Thecastle; 10-19-2018 at 09:07 AM.. |
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10-19-2018, 11:57 AM | #16 | |
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10-19-2018, 12:37 PM | #17 | |
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10-19-2018, 01:27 PM | #18 |
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2.8 makes more power because it runs higher boost, so it can add fueling compared to 2.5 which is maxed out fueling wise for that close to stock boost.
Comparing 2 non race to 2 race would be more fair, and it's a few hp gain. Both tunes are designed to not make smoke. 2.5 is a bit more fuel than 2 and smokes a bit at wot. Free flowing exhaust is not needed, the real restriction is from the scr and dpf. Ever see either cut open? It's very tightly packed! The stock exhaust diameter is not a restriction. The muffler is not a restriction either unless you go extreme. |
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10-19-2018, 02:54 PM | #19 |
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10-19-2018, 03:08 PM | #20 | |
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I suspect that at 2.5/2.8 the turbos are operating outside their efficiency range so they begin to just blow a lot more heat for slightly more air. Which eventaully lowers MAF as the denisty of the air decreases with heat. The 2.8 mods of adding a bigger intercooler which allows you to handle a little more heat from the turbos when running outside their efficiency range and removing obstructions (EGR) is what allows it flow more air. I suspect better boost pipes, and intake will reduce turbo heating and restrictions as well and give a few more hp on any tuned car. |
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10-21-2018, 07:08 AM | #22 |
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I’m not implying that dpf removal is a bad idea depending on your goals. Appologies if it comes across that way. My point i made poorly was removing the dpf yeilds minimal additional hp gains after the car is tuned for a lot of cost. Removal is absolutely necessary for bigger power upgrades down the road like turbo upgrades. However, this modification has potential downsides (depending on perspective) of noise, smell, less mechanics know how to work on the car, smoke, and the potential of harder to resell without removing the mods..
The big thing is bang for the buck for me, on dpf removal (or any cat) Example a tune is 599 (stage 2) and gets us +70hp from jr. but upgrading to the 2.5 race costs $300 for the tune upgrade say 499 for a down pipe, maybe 950 for the scr delete (if not gutting in all cases), then let’s ball park and say 600 in labor and dde shipping for the exhaust upgrades... so the 15 extra hp cost $2349 ish or about $156 per hp. Vs just the tune (699 with shipping) or about $10 per hp. So adding a few additional hp from deletes costs a factor of 15x more per hp than just tuning. I’m not saying it’s a mod to avoid, it’s necessry when it fails or you want to get every last hp our of the car, or you like the sound and or smell of a deleted car. I generally always go big turbo before messing with the exhaust or I just stay tuned depending on the costs for a particular platform. Tuned or big turbo tends to be the sweet spots for hp per $. Last edited by Thecastle; 10-21-2018 at 07:18 AM.. |
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