[Spoolin335]

I know i need to reposition mine, they seem to be rubbing on the subframe near the passenger side. I also sheered off a bolt when installing them so take the advice others have given and just replace the bolts before you install them.

I also have had an issue with the rear flange on the drivers side DP. It doesnt line up with my exhaust so i think ill have to get it machined down...boo

[Themythx]

I just don't understand how the hell anyone can reposition any of these pipes lol it seriously took me an hour to get each clamp on and now they won't move period lol. But they are on the frame and i have tried to pull them towards driver but still no luck. i had the same bolt issue as well i used theres and one made it half way up and then wouldn't go up or down just spun. Conclusion fitment is awesome, screws included are not so great.

Any ideas on how to get this pipe of the frame so i don't have a full time vibrating seat =) Sounds great though

[Tiago@VRSF]

We're replacing the hardware on all the future sets with grade 12.9 bolts & nuts in the future.

In order to re-position the downpipe, you have to loosen the front v-band clamp and the rear flange. After that it's as simple as applying some lateral pressure to the pipe and tightening it down.

If the flange doesn't align, it's because the pipe needs to be clocked. Any of you guys that are getting unaligned flange problems, you're skipping a crucial part of the install that is being overlooked

I'm available via AIM, FB, e-mail and PM if anyone needs any help.

[Spoolin335]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

We're replacing the hardware on all the future sets with grade 12.9 bolts & nuts in the future.

In order to re-position the downpipe, you have to loosen the front v-band clamp and the rear flange. After that it's as simple as applying some lateral pressure to the pipe and tightening it down.

If the flange doesn't align, it's because the pipe needs to be clocked. Any of you guys that are getting unaligned flange problems, you're skipping a crucial part of the install that is being overlooked

I'm available via AIM, FB, e-mail and PM if anyone needs any help.

I know how to reposition the downpipes, but the main issue i am having is with the exhaust flanges.

Not quite sure what you mean about 'clocking' the dp. I am assuming you mean spin the dp on the turbo flange till the exhaust bolts line up?
The issue i am having is the DP flange is not flat with the exhaust flange. It would look similar to this \| when the two flanges are together. My exhaust fitted with the stock DP's no problem so i figure its just a flange issue. I was planning on filing down the flange on the bottom side to get it to align properly. The only other way to get it fixed is have the flange cut off and rewelded at the correct angle.

Is there a easier solution that i am missing?

Other then that flange issue, the DP seem great as for fitment.

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by Spoolin335

I know how to reposition the downpipes, thats not the issue.

Not quite sure what you mean about 'clocking' the dp. I am assuming you mean spin the dp on the turbo flange till the exhaust bolts line up?
The issue i am having is the DP flange is not flat with the exhaust flange. It would look similar to this \| when the two flanges are together. My exhaust fitted with the stock DP's no problem so i figure its just a flange issue. I was planning on filing down the flange on the bottom side to get it to align properly. The only other way to get it fixed is have the flange cut off and rewelded at the correct angle.

Is there a easier solution that i am missing?

Yeah this is definitely out of the ordinary, I haven't seen this problem before to be completely honest. I'm assuming it's an isolated issue. Shoot me a couple pics & we'll get a new set to you ASAP

[ianthegreat]

Originally Posted by eric@helix

If you reverse your O2 sensors, you'll get a code.

And a lot of sputtering/knocking, occassional stalling, etc.

[Themythx]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

We're replacing the hardware on all the future sets with grade 12.9 bolts & nuts in the future.

In order to re-position the downpipe, you have to loosen the front v-band clamp and the rear flange. After that it's as simple as applying some lateral pressure to the pipe and tightening it down.

If the flange doesn't align, it's because the pipe needs to be clocked. Any of you guys that are getting unaligned flange problems, you're skipping a crucial part of the install that is being overlooked

I'm available via AIM, FB, e-mail and PM if anyone needs any help.

Newb question indeed this will be but what in the world do you mean by clocked.

[ianthegreat]

Originally Posted by Themythx

Newb question indeed this will be but what in the world do you mean by clocked.

He means rotated around and clear of anything touching. Basicly, loosen the clamp and you can wiggle/turn the DP around.

[Wedge1967]

You also need to remember the car needs to go through adaptation. On a Procede, you need to reset your adaptations after the install. I would assume this would be the same for other tunes. Once your car has reset, you should notice a big difference in how it spools and you’ll get more of a grunt from the engine as you pull through 4-6k. Truly makes the stock exhaust sound good.

[ksalih]

Originally Posted by Wedge1967

You also need to remember the car needs to go through adaptation. On a Procede, you need to reset your adaptations after the install. I would assume this would be the same for other tunes. Once your car has reset, you should notice a big difference in how it spools and you’ll get more of a grunt from the engine as you pull through 4-6k. Truly makes the stock exhaust sound good.

+1 on the adaptation. I've had mine installed for only 3 days and I can feel the vibration has minimzed since then. I imagine the DP's are just getting positioned and the heat is helping the fitment become tighter. As for those who have major vibration issues after a considerable time from installation, I'd would imagine just loosening and retightening them might help. I didn't notice any part of the DP or o2 sensors making contact with the car but that's also because I don't want to admit that I need to go back under there again!
Again though, the vibration has minimized. It does sound very loud when i WOT in 6th gear, maybe even a slight rattle but again loosening and tightening would help i'm sure.