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How check waste gate operation
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03-07-2012, 12:13 PM | #1 |
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How check waste gate operation
I've been searching but not finding a way to check if my waste gates are sticking open
I have other threads about my low boost issue Did boost leak test I don't think I have vacuum leak Checked all connections I'm running out of things to check so now I'm looking at the waste gates Ty, R
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03-07-2012, 12:20 PM | #2 |
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Wg solenoids?
Do you get it as soon as you give throttle or sometimes? Can you log wg dc?
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03-07-2012, 12:41 PM | #3 |
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couple things to check if you think there's a hardware issue. I think you had another post about vacuum.
1. check vacuum lines from oil cap to after vacuum canisters. I do this by disconnecting at oil cap and WG solenoid in, apply about 15" from a vacuum pump and see if it bleeds off. Just cap the other side with you finger. 2. Now check post WG solenoid by disconnecting both solenoid outs, capping one (I use finger) and pump up to about 15" and check for bleed off (vacuum decreasing). 3. While on step 2 you can visually check WG movement. Top of the car for rear and bottom for front. Just make sure it's smooth. you can observe max vacuum to close rear and kinda judge this same movement length with the front. 4. Next start the car and check vacuum reading from pump... disconnect from vacuum canister and check. maybe around 25" hg 5. with car started you can check post solenoid. I do each separately and then together... if the reading from both are equal then probably good. You do need some WGDC to check this though. most are around 60% tuned as default. 7. check the exhaust flapper to see if any leaks by applying a vacuum After everything above checks out, do a boost leak test. you mentioned you did this already. Sniz has a good DIY using a 2" pvc cap on the IC hot side. 20psi is sufficient. hope this helps. |
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03-07-2012, 01:19 PM | #4 |
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Wow lots of good info
Thanks I did the leak test w/PVC cap at 25psi No leaks found I'll have to get a vac pump tomorrow and get started Ty, R
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03-07-2012, 01:33 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
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03-07-2012, 01:34 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
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03-07-2012, 01:36 PM | #7 |
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I'm pretty sure you can
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03-07-2012, 01:44 PM | #8 |
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if you get low boost constantly and pressure/smoke test is fine than one of your WG is fucked and you need a new turbo.
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03-07-2012, 01:47 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
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03-07-2012, 01:49 PM | #10 |
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do you get low boost when on stock map? Just remove maps and dealer it.
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'18 F80 M3 Comp 6MT - Stock
'07 E92 335i 6MT- HP650, inlets/outlets, ER FMIC, VRSF CP, LPFP stg2, CSF rad, 'is Aux rad, ER OC, Ohlins, M control arms, eibach front sway bar. '05 C55 AMG SOLD - '22 Tesla M3P | '10 E92 335i M, 6MT | '07 E90 335i, PTF COBB E50, FBO, HFS4 |
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03-07-2012, 02:15 PM | #11 |
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Never thought of logging map 0 cause I assumed it disabled logging also
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03-07-2012, 02:20 PM | #12 |
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Map4 is stock map, and CAN enabled so you get to log.
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'18 F80 M3 Comp 6MT - Stock
'07 E92 335i 6MT- HP650, inlets/outlets, ER FMIC, VRSF CP, LPFP stg2, CSF rad, 'is Aux rad, ER OC, Ohlins, M control arms, eibach front sway bar. '05 C55 AMG SOLD - '22 Tesla M3P | '10 E92 335i M, 6MT | '07 E90 335i, PTF COBB E50, FBO, HFS4 |
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03-07-2012, 02:32 PM | #13 |
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Just got e mail for terry bout map 4
Thanks also, R
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03-07-2012, 04:21 PM | #14 |
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If you have a hand-help vacuum pump such as a Mityvac, you can pull vacuum on the WGAs and watch the rods move. The front WG rod is nearly impossible to see - much less touch or remove - without pulling a couple of things apart. The rear you can see easily.
I've seen one turbo where the WG pivot arm that goes into the turbine housing was so worn and sloppy that it bound up. When vacuum was applied, the WGA rod would move about 2-3mm and stick. If I stuck a prybar on it and gave it a shove, it would work. Only solution was a new turbo.
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03-08-2012, 02:57 PM | #15 |
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Jb4 map 4 log boost maxed out 7.4 and supposed to be 8.8 I think.
All other maps way under target....... It's going to the dealer I guess and stock dp's go back on
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