[zigsman]

I purchased a project car (would not start), replaced the cas and dme, got the car to start....but there is no oil pressure! The car ticks extremely loudly, and the red oil light on the dash lights up. I drained all the oil out, refilled it and replaced the oil filter. Started it again with no change in symptoms. I removed the oil filter cover and found the new filter was still dry! So, how common is an oil pump failure on the e90? What else (other than a bad oil pump) would cause no oil pressure?

[michbmw]

did you code the new modules (specifically the dme) to your specific vehicle, they are not plug n play. What specific model/engine and build year is your car?

[zigsman]

Originally Posted by michbmw

did you code the new modules (specifically the dme) to your specific vehicle, they are not plug n play. What specific model/engine and build year is your car?

I did. I purchased a used DME, CAS, and key from the same donor and swapped them into my 2006 325i (E90, N52 eng) project. I then used Abrites Commander and copied the VO from the KOMBI and coded it into the CAS. The only thing I have not done is changed the vin yet in the DME and CAS. Is there something else I need to code? The engine will start and run, but it sounds horrific due to the valve ticking because of the lack of oil. I shut it down right away and verified there was no oil on the new filter. I believe the oil pump is mechanical on the N52, it should not need any specific coding, should it?

Thanks for whatever suggestions you may have!

[longnvu]

Mine oil press light used to turn on till i dropped the oil pan and the oil pick up screen was clogged with oil pan gaskets

[michbmw]

Originally Posted by zigsman

I did. I purchased a used DME, CAS, and key from the same donor and swapped them into my 2006 325i (E90, N52 eng) project. I then used Abrites Commander and copied the VO from the KOMBI and coded it into the CAS. The only thing I have not done is changed the vin yet in the DME and CAS. Is there something else I need to code? The engine will start and run, but it sounds horrific due to the valve ticking because of the lack of oil. I shut it down right away and verified there was no oil on the new filter. I believe the oil pump is mechanical on the N52, it should not need any specific coding, should it?

Thanks for whatever suggestions you may have!

I'm pretty sure it is a mechanical pump, screen could be clogged like longnvu said or the pump could just be shot or damaged. What kind of damage are you dealing with on your project car? flood car, front end damage, etc.? Many people rip on you for salvage cars, i enjoy a good project as well,my wifes 2012 g37x was a project car which now works great (aside from a leaky oil pan which i need to fix)

[zigsman]

Originally Posted by michbmw

I'm pretty sure it is a mechanical pump, screen could be clogged like longnvu said or the pump could just be shot or damaged. What kind of damage are you dealing with on your project car? flood car, front end damage, etc.? Many people rip on you for salvage cars, i enjoy a good project as well,my wifes 2012 g37x was a project car which now works great (aside from a leaky oil pan which i need to fix)

Kid I bought it from said he was driving on the freeway and it just died on him. He had it towed home and dumped a few thousand into it trying to get it running. He found the head was blown (all the bearings for the inlet cam were split in half) and replaced it. He replaced multiple sensors (cam, crankshaft, etc), starter, fuel pump, and still could not get it running. It would crank over but would not start. He finally gave up and listed it for sale. I hooked up inpa, GT1, DIS, Progman, BV Tech, and some other aftermarket software and was unable to communicate with the DME. I could read all other modules, just not the DME. So, I purchased the car thinking I would only need to spend about 2k max to get it running (if it were the DME). I purchased a used DME/CAS/Key combo from the same donor and swapped them into my project...wala! It starts...but loud ticking (valves starved for oil) and the oil light came on right away. I shut it down and pulled the oil filter...it was brand new and bone dry. I elicited the help of a BMW pro who works at a local BMW and works on the side with his brother who owns a BMW indy....we verified the timing is right on...we just have no oil pressure. Best we could figure is that the kid likely pulled the bolt from the crankshaft when pulling the timing chain and allowed the sprocket for the oil pump to fall into the oil pan...therefore, nothing is driving the oil pump now! Looking at the task in TIS to pull the oil pan, it's a 9 hr job and includes partially pulling the engine and dropping the front end of the car! What a pain!

[longnvu]

dropping the oil pan took me less then 6 hours at home. Using all hand tools, no lifts, and no compressor.

[zigsman]

Originally Posted by longnvu

dropping the oil pan took me less then 6 hours at home. Using all hand tools, no lifts, and no compressor.

I started to pull the bolts...there is a bolt on the passenger side that is right above the rack and pinion, can't get it out without raising the engine or lowering the rack. I have a buddy, luckily, with every tool you can imagine and a garage. We are just going to pull the engine next weekend. It will be SOOOO much easier to work on it when it is out of the car and on a stand. It may sound like a lot of work to some, but, in the end, it will probably be much less of a hassle. I can also inspect the bearings and piston rods while i'm in there. I just can't believe the idiotic engineers at BMW designed the car in such a way that makes it near impossible for the "weekend mechanic" to drop the oil pan....gaskets leak and need to be replaced...not everyone would like to fork out $1,000 at the dealer to replace an oil pan gasket! Not that my gasket is leaking, but, if it were designed a bit better, it sure would make my job a lot easier at this point.

[longnvu]

You can do it without pulling the engine out. Just buy a engine support bar at harbor freight for 60 bucks with coupon. Then unbolt the steering joint and unbolt the subframe bolt with a jack supporting it while you are lowering it down. It would save you a lot of time and trouble then removing the engine. Have you remove the valve cover yet?

[zigsman]

Originally Posted by longnvu

You can do it without pulling the engine out. Just buy a engine support bar at harbor freight for 60 bucks with coupon. Then unbolt the steering joint and unbolt the subframe bolt with a jack supporting it while you are lowering it down. It would save you a lot of time and trouble then removing the engine. Have you remove the valve cover yet?

The valve cover is still on...I just put a new gasket on and new hardware on two days ago! I am going to read through the task for replacing the oil pump again. I just don't want to get stuck for hours on my back under the car working in a really tight spot trying to get this thing hooked back up...or replaced.

[zigsman]

So, I ended up purchasing the engine support bar at Harbor Freight...GREAT BUY if anyone was thinking about it. I raised the engine, lowered the K-Frame (font end) and maneuvered the oil pan out...it was tight. I did find a bunch of broken plastic and debris in the oil pan, along with a sprocket and chain, but it was from the vacuum pump, not the oil pump. The oil pump and vacuum pump are on the same chain driven by the same crankshaft sprocket, so if any of the three components go...they all go. It looks like the vacuum pump seized up (odd) and released mayhem in the front of the block!! The lubrication system / oil pump drive tray was destroyed!. Luckily, the timing chain / system was unaffected. So, I purchased new sprockets, a new chain and a new tray, with tensioner, and got it back in the block. I am still waiting on my vacuum pump...shipping was delayed for some reason and I am still waiting to hear from the supplier. Once I get the pump, I will slap it all back together and that should (hopefully) fix the problem. We'll see...

[Rockyca]

if the engine was starved of oil I would suspect scored cyl walls, and maybe some of the bearings to be messed up. You are probably better dropping in a new engine if this is the case. It may still run but will likely burn a bunch of oil and be down on power. Fingers crossed for you, but oil starvation is always bad!

[mike-y]

^true. And you said all the intake cam bearings were cracked in half, so that hints of oil starvation, which would overheat the bearings/journals and mess up the head.

You should do a leak-down and compression test on all cylinders as soon as possible to check for other potential issues.

[Rockyca]

I can almost guarentee that that motor is shot. Especially since it is an aluminum / magnesium alloy, it is not especially hard.

I would do a borescope, leakdown / compression. It only takes a few seconds with no oil to completely ruin a motor. I came from an audi s4 with the alusil v8 which is prone to cylinder scoring, and consumption issues even when properly lubed. I can only imagine what the inside of this motor looks like.

[zigsman]

agreed...I can only hope it lost oil pressure and died right away! As opposed to being driven for a bit without oil pressure...

Originally Posted by Rockyca

if the engine was starved of oil I would suspect scored cyl walls, and maybe some of the bearings to be messed up. You are probably better dropping in a new engine if this is the case. It may still run but will likely burn a bunch of oil and be down on power. Fingers crossed for you, but oil starvation is always bad!

[zigsman]

That's a good idea...

Originally Posted by Rockyca

I can almost guarentee that that motor is shot. Especially since it is an aluminum / magnesium alloy, it is not especially hard.

I would do a borescope, leakdown / compression. It only takes a few seconds with no oil to completely ruin a motor. I came from an audi s4 with the alusil v8 which is prone to cylinder scoring, and consumption issues even when properly lubed. I can only imagine what the inside of this motor looks like.

[Bimmertech113]

I feel like your going to find that the engine is junk now. You can pull a bearing cap off a connecting rod and look for damage. If they aren't bad you might be lucky. If they are bad you may still get away with just replacing all the bearings. If the cam was broken? Did anyone check for bent valves?

[zigsman]

The head was replaced, so, there should be no issues with bent valves...the bearings were not bad...but i have a bad feeling anyway.... We'll see what happens when I fire it up!

Originally Posted by Bimmertech113

I feel like your going to find that the engine is junk now. You can pull a bearing cap off a connecting rod and look for damage. If they aren't bad you might be lucky. If they are bad you may still get away with just replacing all the bearings. If the cam was broken? Did anyone check for bent valves?