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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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N54 coolant change
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06-17-2013, 09:03 PM | #1 |
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Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Holly, MI
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I have been a lot of research on how to properly change the coolant on an N54. Here is what I have come up with.
1) Jack up the front of the car and use quality 3 ton jack stands at the lift points near the front of the car. 2) Remove the plastic under shield near the front of the car. 3) Make sure the engine is cold and open the reservoir fill cap. 4) Use a form a funnel and a large basin type fluid catch. 5) Open the blue drain screw on the drivers side and let it drain. 6) Remove the pipe near the AT and let it drain. 7) Remove the FMIC near radiator, which is two clips and two star screws, and let it drain. 8) Unscrew the black screw you now have access to after removing the FMIC and let it drain. 9) Put it all back together. 10) Mix a batch of quality coolant like an AMSOIL or BMW with 50% distilled water and 50% coolant; consider using a coolant booster. 11) Open the bleeder screw near coolant reservoir. 12) Begin to fill the system; it should take about 9 Qts. You should stop at about half way and turn the car on and run the heater full blast on the highest setting and fill the system the rest of the way. 13) Turn the car off with the key still in the ignition and lights on the dash visible and turn the heater on the lowest setting and press the accelerator all the way down for about 10-12 seconds until you hear the automatic pump kick on, which gets rid of all the air in the coolant system. It is advisable to have you battery on a charger for this process or perhaps fully charged prior to this process. 14) Open the reservoir and double check the coolant level. 15) done Any advice? Changes to the list? I am open ears |
06-17-2013, 10:32 PM | #2 |
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Step 12 is wrong, full coolant until it comes out bleed screw....close bleed screw, fill coolant 1/8th" above normal fill.
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JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
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06-17-2013, 10:47 PM | #3 |
Captain
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I find it easier just to remove the fmic first and then remove the blue screw to drain, but i think its different for AT and MT. I have MT so iirc you have to remove fmic to get access to the blue drain screw.
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06-17-2013, 11:15 PM | #5 |
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I never do it that way, I usually just take hose off heat exchanger.
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JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
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06-18-2013, 01:27 AM | #6 |
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03-21-2014, 07:09 AM | #7 |
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Is there any way to get all the coolant out through the heat exchanger hose? What about just flushing water through the expansion tank? I have some oil in my coolant system from the OFHG leaking and want to get rid of what's in there.
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03-21-2014, 08:26 AM | #8 |
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that us what I do when I do turbo installs...gets 99.9% out
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JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
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03-25-2014, 10:18 AM | #9 |
Second Lieutenant
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Could you elaborate a bit more on this please? Do you just flush through the expansion tank with water or the coolant mix? My concern is that if I flushed with water, there will still remain some water in the system and it will be difficult to get the 50:50 mix. Unless I am missing something.
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03-25-2014, 12:55 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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JB4 G5, Stage 3 LPFP, Stage 2 MOTIV PI, VM 6466 ST, Custom OCC W/ SS lines, ER FMIC, ER CP W/HKS BOV, M3 control arms, M3 guide rods, M3 upper links, M3 front & rear sway-bars, HPA rear toe arms, Wavetrac LSD, HPF Gen 2, DEFIV kit, KW clubsport, Delrin solid SF bushings, stoptech rotors, Rogue Tranny Mounts, 1M bumper, M3 CF hood, M3 fenders, M3 OEM sideskirts, Mtech rear bumper, CSL trunk, MORR VS8.2 rims 245/295
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03-26-2014, 09:47 AM | #11 |
Second Lieutenant
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I'd imagine to do a full flush you need to run the engine up to temp whilst adding water into the ecpansion tank to get all the old coolant in all the galleys, heater rad etc out
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