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Warning - Freakin' K&N filters
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01-07-2015, 03:05 AM | #67 |
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the two are unrelated. if the engine is getting more air from a bigger TB, it will probably make more power. the MAF is just how it meters how much air is coming in and adjusts AFRs accordingly
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01-07-2015, 03:28 PM | #68 |
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So, I called K&N to inquire about the case. Very soft spoken people; however, I don't think I they will pay for my MAF, but one never knows.
They immediately said that my case was weird and they test MAFs by soaking them into their oil and they are positive that their oil cannot cause the MAF failure. My case was immediately escalated and I spoke to a nice gentleman who suggested that I return the filter to the store for a full refund and switch to stock filter to see if codes go away. He said that my issue might be with car computer adjusting to higher volume of air going over MAF and that it is very unlikely that the oil caused my MAF failure. He also suggested that I clean my MAF again and to make sure to really clean the hole (plastic tunnel) on it. After I do all those things, I should call them again and report back. ----------- I will do as they ask... |
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01-27-2015, 11:39 AM | #69 |
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So, I cleaned my MAF. I didn't really care about damaging it since I was planning on buying a new one, so I ended up using an entire can of MAF cleaner. I let sensor soak for a bit. Dried it, did it again. Scraped grim off the tiny wires and off the bottom metal plate with a screw driver. Sprayed it some more and installed it back into the vehicle. Cleared codes and guess what? It seems to be working. Codes haven't returned yet. I put about 800 miles since, and car is still pulling strongly with no codes.
TL;DR: Cleaning maf worked. |
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02-11-2015, 11:46 PM | #70 |
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Drives: Metallic Black 2006 325i
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Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I also coincidentally bought a KN filter at the same exact time you did, installed it, and it ran fine, so I didn't bother to post about it. I'm posting now because I checked it today whilst doing other maintenance.
Like yours, my filter came in a sealed plastic bag pre-oiled. I confirm that it was a tad bit more oily than necessary. The airbox still has the carbon filter in it, so I didn't bother to check it until today. So I did notice that there was some red oil dripping out of the airbox, from the seams towards the bottom. I took the box out and did find a small puddle of red oil in the box, but none on the carbon filter. Took a paper towel and wiped it clean. No issues, but I do recommend if anyone buys a KN filter, either let it sit and dry for a day before installing, or use it and check it after a day of normal driving.
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02-12-2015, 01:17 PM | #71 |
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02-20-2015, 10:40 AM | #72 |
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can you safely remove the carbon filter from the airbox? I had no idea about it when I installed my K&N last night. my buddy and I just kinda stood there confused.
I hear of people doing a carbon filter delete...please explain? |
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02-20-2015, 12:43 PM | #74 | |
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Quote:
Piece of advice - remove maf before you cut it out. Cutting it will cause a lot of carbon dust. It's no big deal if you don't, but you will need to clean your maf afterwards. If you have time (patience), take your time and make it nice and clean. Initially I used a knife, which left a lot of lose trim. Later I removed all excess with scalpel (box cutter), making the area super clean and almost removing all signs of CF ever being there. Also, removing the carbon filter will improve your throttle response as well give nicer engine sound. I don't think it really frees any HP (it's possible), but increase in throttle response is def worth it. From my personal observances, removing it also resulted in better MPG. I highly recommend it. |
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02-20-2015, 01:48 PM | #75 | |
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Quote:
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