[Arexander]

Hi guys,

I have a 335i n54. This is my 2nd time installing a JB4 G5 in my car. I installed it over the weekend with no other mods. The car ran smoothly. Additionally, no CEL error codes that came out.

Yesterday, I got bored and installed my ER cp, BMS DCI's and Forge DV's. I did everything correctly and double-checked to make sure all the piping was tight.

I took it for a cruise last night, then launched it. Immediately, my motor display came up on the dash. Yet, the car was running fine. So I deduced that none of the coils went out (happened to me more than once before lol).

Anyways, this morning it came out again. I took a short video of it. Here is the link below:

Can you please help direct me in the correct path. I have only my ER FMIC & AR dp's to install.

Much appreciated.

UPDATE:

According to this e90 link:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=517332

This is the sequence of what I am reading:
FLASH
2,0
FLASH
2,F,6,C
FLASH
3,0,F
FLASH

Confused...

[335NJ]

What is the code?

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by 335NJ

What is the code?

+1

[Arexander]

Originally Posted by 335NJ

What is the code?

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

+1

It's on the video guys. Sorry I didn't mention that. I am not 100% sure how to read the error code from the dash.

[Arexander]

I searched and got 1 code...I guess guy before me did that exhaust mod:

2F6C Exhaust fumeflap, input signal

[335NJ]

Originally Posted by Arexniba

I searched and got 1 code...I guess guy before me did that exhaust mod:

2F6C Exhaust fumeflap, input signal

I'm at work on my phone so I can't watch a YouTube video.

Check the connection in the trunk, and the vacuum connection on the right side of the engine bay.

[csu87]

Originally Posted by Arexniba

I searched and got 1 code...I guess guy before me did that exhaust mod:

2F6C Exhaust fumeflap, input signal

this shouldnt be the cause of your issues. I have this code constantly and never had what you are describing.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by csu87

this shouldnt be the cause of your issues. I have this code constantly and never had what you are describing.

Thats the so called golf T mod code.

Mike

[Arexander]

Yes, the rear is disconnected. However, I'm guessing I didn't do something right when installing the DCI's and/or CP with diverter valves.

That last flash I thought was "30F," but after doing a quick Google search, there's an error code called "30FF"--Vacuum/Boost Leak.

According to N54's website (http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13114), the OP stated:

Common causes for boost under target when PWM is high in logs:

1) ORING missing from chargepipe.
2) Blown off diverter valve.
3) Blown off intercooler pipe.

1) Checked before installing CP, and o-ring was set there properly.
2) I purchased from a fellow e90 member and the dv's look solid--no damages, bends, etc.
3) I checked last night and today, and I don't see any damages to my piping.

[335NJ]

Again. There's a vacuum line on the right side of the engine bay for the exhaust flapper, if it's disconnected or broken, you have a vacuum leak.

See post #11 (I think) http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...light=BOV+load

[Arexander]

Originally Posted by 335NJ

Again. There's a vacuum line on the right side of the engine bay for the exhaust flapper, if it's disconnected or broken, you have a vacuum leak.

See post #11 (I think) http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...light=BOV+load

Can you please post a picture? Or if it's easier, you can send it to my phone via text: 650-922-4223.

In regards to vacuum lines, the only thing I can think of last night that was a pain in the ass, was connecting that 3-piece vacuum line to the Forge DV's. The oem vacuum hoses are small for the Forge DV's, so I had to grip it and turn it a few times until it went all the way into the metal part. I can't think of anything else...

EDIT:
Just saw your link, I'll check that out and update if it's disconnected.

[Arexander]

Update:

Connected the wire in the back. Cleared the codes. No more exhaust flap error.

Now, I checked that vacuum line and it's connected. What I did notice is that the CP isn't completely all the way to the end of the throttle body base. I think that's where the 30FF leak is coming from. I have to wait till I get home. I have tools there. And I'll have to wait because it's hella hot.

[335NJ]

Originally Posted by Arexniba

Update:

Connected the wire in the back. Cleared the codes. No more exhaust flap error.

Now, I checked that vacuum line and it's connected. What I did notice is that the CP isn't completely all the way to the end of the throttle body base. I think that's where the 30FF leak is coming from. I have to wait till I get home. I have tools there. And I'll have to wait because it's hella hot.

Yes, the CP needs a little "umpf" to push it all the way on, then push down the c-clip. When it's properly seated, it might have a tiny bit of wiggle to it (ER does anyway), but won't pull off.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

The CP does require a good bit of force to get it squared up with the throttle body.

When I install them with the C clip I give them a good tug to make sure it's locked in good.

If that's not seated fully with an O ring it will leak.

[Arexander]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

The CP does require a good bit of force to get it squared up with the throttle body.

When I install them with the C clip I give them a good tug to make sure it's locked in good.

If that's not seated fully with an O ring it will leak.

Originally Posted by 335NJ

Yes, the CP needs a little "umpf" to push it all the way on, then push down the c-clip. When it's properly seated, it might have a tiny bit of wiggle to it (ER does anyway), but won't pull off.

You know, it was funny because I did notice this when I was installing the cp. I was toggling it around and the c-clip was half way set. Funny thing is that when it pushed in more towards the throttle body, the c-clip snapped in place.
So, I was like...Okay, that's in...

I did a quick research on other's ER cp's "popping off," however, I don't believe this has happened to me because the OEM bolt (in the middle that holds the cp's bracket down) won't allow any movement of the CP. I guess this is good as I commute 40min. from work to home. Last thing I want is an immovable car

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Arexniba

You know, it was funny because I did notice this when I was installing the cp. I was toggling it around and the c-clip was half way set. Funny thing is that when it pushed in more towards the throttle body, the c-clip snapped in place.
So, I was like...Okay, that's in...

I did a quick research on other's ER cp's "popping off," however, I don't believe this has happened to me because the OEM bolt (in the middle that holds the cp's bracket down) won't allow any movement of the CP. I guess this is good as I commute 40min. from work to home. Last thing I want is an immovable car

It would be pretty hard for the CP to detach fully from the throttle body, especially with it bolted down on the bracket.

I didn't use the bracket personally but that's a different story.

Point is, the car would still be mobile even without the CP, you just wont have any boost.

[Arexander]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

It would be pretty hard for the CP to detach fully from the throttle body, especially with it bolted down on the bracket.

I didn't use the bracket personally but that's a different story.

Point is, the car would still be mobile even without the CP, you just wont have any boost.

Got cha.

Jeff, question for you. Since you work at TopGear, can you point me in the right direction of the map sensor screws needed. I noticed this is one thing the seller didn't provide. I'm hoping I can go to any hardware store to pick them up?

I read the instructions another member provided when he installed his cp, and he stated:

two 4mm allen screws...use a T20 torx

Is this correct?

[335NJ]

Originally Posted by Arexniba

Got cha.

Jeff, question for you. Since you work at TopGear, can you point me in the right direction of the map sensor screws needed. I noticed this is one thing the seller didn't provide. I'm hoping I can go to any hardware store to pick them up?

I read the instructions another member provided when he installed his cp, and he stated:

two 4mm allen screws...use a T20 torx

Is this correct?

I can answer this for you. BMW P/N- 11617535849

ECS link - http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-335i-N54_3.0L/ES25785/

(or this one) damnit, I don't remember which one's which
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-335i-N54_3.0L/ES99370/

^^^Pretty sure it's the bottom one.

[Arexander]

[B]UPDATE:[/]

Sorry for late responses. After your great advices. I got home, opened up the hood, and waited for the motor to cool down. Once it cooled down, I noticed so many things wrong.

-The connection was loose from the CP to the FMIC pipe
-The 2x BMS filters came loose
-The Forge DV's also became loose
-Vacuum lines for the DV's ripped

I tightened up everything. Even triple-checked to make sure everything was secure. Luckily, I had an old vacuum line hose from my Integra. I measured it to the OEM BMW one and sealed the lines back up to that 3-prong vacuum line for the dv's.

It not only worked, but the car practically pulled the moment I accelerated. It's amazing now.
However, I still have the error code 30FF still come up once in a while. I believe it may be due to the MAP Sensor screws I was missing from the previous CP owner. I called ER yesterday, and they were nice enough to send me a brand new set for free (well almost free because I have to pay for shipping).

Hopefully I'll get it tomorrow.

I hope this helps others out that may be experiencing the same issues.