[chinko]

I have a vibration on the clutch pedal and can hear grinding noise at idle or low speed. It still shifts good and at higher speed, it doesn't vibrates. Did some researching and seems to point at throw out bearing. How can I be sure? If I bring it to my indy, what else should be replaced while the transmission is dropped? It's my DD and I don't race, should I look at aftermarket?. I should mention I have a shifter shaft seal oil leak. I also intend to sell the car.

[335NJ]

Does the noise go away when you press the pedal in? How about when you turn on the AC (added load would make it worse maybe)?

[chinko]

Only when I press the pedal all the way down, it goes a way. With the AC on, pedal still pulsates but not sure about the noise. The noise seems to be coming from the mid part where the clutch is.
Edit: sound is more pronounced with AC at max

Edit 2: Finally it all went away this morning after 2 mins on my way to the garage. My indy was saying it may be related to the intense heat and ambient humidity. In Montreal, we had a heat wave from Monday, temperature was 30C (86F) but with the humidity (>75%) it felt like 40C (104F).

[chinko]

Bah it came back.
Only happens when on neutral, when in gear or when shifting it doesn't happen. Putting the AC on, accentuates the noise. Not sure where the noise is coming from.

[335NJ]

How many miles on the clutch & flywheel? Is it all factory components still?

[chinko]

Yes all OEM, last time it was changed at 77000km (48k miles), had the car at 88000km, now car has 145000km (90k miles). Not sure how they go out this fast, I don't do launches, drive smoothly, put car in neutral at red light, don't lean on the shifter, you know the usual.
I should say it comes and goes. Now it's gone again. Is it definitely the throw out bearing? Could it be the pulleys, last time I only changed the belt. I also had an oil filter housing oil leak for a while, although it's fixed now,it left oil residue below it. Didn't clean it up good enough maybe? I also had the tie rods changed last week, maybe heat contracts then or maybe the torch they used to remove it damaged something else? I still have a very light shifter shaft oil leak for a few years now. Just shooting everything that comes up in my head.

[NoSlow5oh]

One of the easiest ways is to put light pressure on the clutch pedal. If the noise and vibration goes away, it's pretty much the throw out bearing. It could be the way you drive. I used to go through a throw out bearing in my mustangs every other year, even spec clutches. If you need the throw out bearing, at least install a new clutch and pressure plate as well. They usually all come in a kit. I'm thinking of a non-hydraulic setup though, so I may be wrong.

[335NJ]

When it was replaced, did they replace the DMFW & throw out bearing?

[chinko]

Replacer by dealer, assuming they did it correctly, invoice only list part number 21 20 7 567 623 list price 600$, previous owner had 50% discount on it. Online websites refer this as a clutch kit http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._B604A007.aspx

[335NJ]

Sounds like this could be an issue with the dual mass flywheel, but you should let a shop confirm what's going on.

I can't imagine a dealer not replacing the TOB while doing the clutch, but I can imagine them not replacing the original flywheel.

[chinko]

What would be your recommendation if the issue requires removing the clutch, replace everything in there TOB, DMFW, Clutch, bushing and seals nearby? Is it a good idea to upgrade the clutch or go with OE supplier like LUK?

[2jzn54]

sounds like a bad throw out bearing. goes away when you push the clutch pedal all the way in? i'd live with it if you are not under warranty. If you are covered bring it in, they'll likely replace the pressure plate, pad, and tob

[chinko]

Seems to happen only in neutral.
When I slightly touch the pedal, I can't feel the vibration even if the noise can be heard. But as soon as I start pushing on it I can feel the vibration until the pedal is all the way in, then no more vibration.
I dont have warranty, I'd live with it if it's not dangerous or will cost more later on.

[Miller335]

It's obviously something clutch/flywheel/TOB related and if you're going to go through the trouble to pull the transmission you might as well replace them all.

335is clutch is same price stock 335 clutch, might as well do that.

[2jzn54]

if it were me i would just live with it.. if you feel you must replace it buy the 335is clutch kit from as miller recommended.

[MLand]

I am having issue. I hear vibrating sounds and when puch on clutcj it goes away. If is bad TOB. Is it safe to drive ot like that?.

[335NJ]

Originally Posted by Nathapong

I am having issue. I hear vibrating sounds and when puch on clutcj it goes away. If is bad TOB. Is it safe to drive ot like that?.

If it still allows you to drive and shift normally, you're fine, but don't put it off for too long because something could be failing (or failed), and could lead to bigger headaches.

Have your mechanic look at it for you to see what's going on.

[chinko]

Im now having hesitation as if the engine goes into limp mode after a misfire. All my injectors and sparks are oem new
Can this be related to the TOB problem?

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by Nathapong

I am having issue. I hear vibrating sounds and when puch on clutcj it goes away. If is bad TOB. Is it safe to drive ot like that?.

My stock original clutch also has been making some slight chattering noises for the last 80k miles. As long as it grabs fine and doesn't slip, then it's normal.

[chinko]

When revving in neutral, there's no hesitation, I'm guessing not related to anything engine related? Just gonna wait it out until it slips to change the TOB.