[fullofquestions]

I created a post a few days ago that explains my situation in depth.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1210116

But the short story is that I had a rough idle, thought it was coil 2 so I replaced it, the issue persisted so I changed the spark plugs and coils. The issue persisted so I took my car to the indy who fixed the alternator. This morning I'm driving to work and as I'm speeding into the on ramp I lose power and get the same dashboard icon as before (see below). After an hour of waiting for the tow, I start the car and it seems to have power so I drive it to the mechanic but within three blocks of the mechanic the car loses power again. It feels as though the alternator is overheating.
The mechanic claims to have purchased an 180 AMP Bosch alternator that reused the core but was rebuilt in the US and claimed that was has given him the best results.
Anyway, should I get a 150 or 180 AMP alternator for my car (I just want to go with what is recommended)? Also, do you think this is that critical point where these cars start to have a lot of problems; i.e. should I sell it now (85K miles)?
Any info is much appreciated.



https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1...GJ3SEpxVW1aeGM

[sp1tfire]

I myself have not much knowledge about electrical systems, but i would assume that their output voltage would be same, just one could keep up with more load, aux devices, etc. (i may be wrong).
The recommended AMP can be looked up here http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select
Just type last 7 of your VIN and find by catalogue.
Honestly don't think there is a reason to sell, the value of the car pretty much depreciated to its 80% (normally a car looses most of its value by 10th year, then its just give or take and how its taken care of) , unless you are leaning towards new car and need this extra money and/or don't want another car to take up the space, selling is not a major win.
My car has 144k. Didn't have many critical problems (although dealing with one now, which could range from something very simple to HPFP or something else, trying to diagnose right now). I plan to push it for another 2 years and get a new one. This one will be tuned by then and possible track car project.
My view is that it very much differs with every car and the way its driven and maintained. Cars don't like to be pushed over certain limit as much as being used only small fraction of its potential. Balance is the goal.

Your service requirements depend on the maintenance performed within your mileage. I haven't had ANY problems, beside of some gaskets up to 100k, but started proactively doing some work, by 144k some problems caught up with my work, but most of them could been avoided with more wear-items changed/inspected, but since its the first car i even changed oil on, not counting many other things (belts, engine mount, water pump, oil pan gasket..the list goes on and on) I'm satisfied with its performance reliability.

[fullofquestions]

So I had the alternator replaced (180amp) and drove the car back home about 5 miles. The next morning I drove the car to the train station and as I was entering the on ramp, I hit on the gas pedal to see if the car would work, and I lost power immediately.
I saw the exact same error message as previously. If you go to the link here:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=356322
and view item number 41, (no 41, control unit DME1_DDE1, id code 29)

I sat in the car waiting for a tow and after an hour it was getting cold so I tried to see if the car would start up. It did and I drove back to the mechanic (there was a steep hill and and less steep by 2 mile long incline). Interestingly, three blocks to the mechanic, on completely flat land, the car again (right on the intersection) lost power.

The mechanic looked at it and told me that there is a huge vacum in the PCV valve. Apparently the valve cover (which includes the PCV valve) needs to be replaced and it is one of those 'things' that are not tracked by the computer and that can act up any time. This is a huge red flag for me since the car was fixed the day before and here we go with another issue. Even if the mechanic is right, this to me seems like a major flaw in the system.

So, I called BMW USA and asked about warranty since this is an SULEV model. I downloaded the '3 series service and warranty guide' to check if the valve cover is covered as an SULEV emission control system. Obviously, this document keeps things vague and so I was wondering if any of you have any opinions as to how I could figure out whether or not this part is covered.

Any information is welcome. Also, apparently the valve cover goes for 450. Does $850 including parts seem like a reasonable cost to replace the valve cover? Would any of you go for this replacement or could I be entering an bottomless money pit here? I seriously drove the car 6 miles after having spent $1,100 and I was left stranded with no warning and no power.

Thanks