[GEOS07335i]

I recently bought a E93 2008 and one of the few things wrong with it was no audio. The previous owner had the car for 5 years and told me he left the trunk open one day when it was raining and after that no sound. So I took a chance and bought the car anyway. Now that I have most of the maintenance issues out of the way I wanted to tackle the No sound issue.

First thing I did was check the fuses. This is where my trouble starts. Long story short after I checked all the fuses to the little radio indicator in the glove box. There were multiple fuses. I now get the SOS yellow light in the dash. I've checked and double checked but dont know if I misplaced a fuse etc... I did notice that according to my little diagram there were two fuses missing. But anyway I didnt have the yellow SOS sign before I started checking. That's my first issue.

Next I bought a MOST Loop Adapter from amazon for $20 and of course it doesnt fit. So I have to rig that and hooked it up to the AMP. Try to bypass. But I cant really tell if it's the AMP because the yellow SOS comes on regardless.

Now it gets interesting. The AMP looks fine. The Bluetooth MULF2 module looks like it was underwater. Look at the pics.
Question: I know this is shot but I wanted to see if I could clean it and stick it back in to see if it's just a corroded pin. The connector does have some corrosion on the pins. What can I use to clean it? I was going to use either a little WD-40 with an old toothbrush and try to scrub off any corrosion. Good or bad idea? What should I use to clean the board? Can I use like rubbing alcohol with a little cotton q-tip?

Question: This is most likely shot. Although I have bluetooth option on the NAV I cant get it to enable or hook up my phone. I'm thinking this module is toast. So my next option is get a junkyard one or ebay used. Any suggestions. Do I have to get the same identical model and do I have to code the new one? One side cover it says BMW MULF2 - High Basis SVS 7530BQ08B079116 IC: 6434A-MULF2


I keep getting errors when uploading pictures. There only 300K and the size is within the limit. Anyone else having issues uploading images?

[ctuna]

If you bypass the Mulf and the sound doesn't come back
its probably the amp. If you bypass the amp and the SOS
error goes away it kind of indicates the Mulf is OK.

[ctuna]

If you bypass the Mulf and the sound doesn't come back
its probably the amp. If you bypass the amp and the SOS
error goes away it kind of indicates the Mulf is OK.
You could try paring your phone if the SOS goes away on
an amp bypass this would be more evidence the Mulf is Ok
and the Amp is bad.
The amp getting waterlogged is much more common than the
Mulf. If the Mulf was wet most probably the amp was to as its
even lower in the car.

[GEOS07335i]

The MULF is definitely TOAST. The corrosion was so bad in the connector that second pin from the board into the connector broke and is now stuck in the connector. I need to take the header pin of the blue connector out now and remove the pin. I also need to really clean it up as some of the pins have corrosion on them.

I did bypass with the loop adapter the MULF and no sound. I was hoping it was that. But it looks like I may have an issue with the SAT unit too? I did notice when I took the connector out of the AMP I did see the red light on one side of the optical connector. Also I did not see any red light emanating from the optical connector on the SAT connector.

Is there a particular order in which I should be using the MOST loop connector?

[ctuna]

It just has to be a closed loop . You can reroute around it at the Most
Hub usually found behind the rear passenger seat bolster behind the drivers
seat. If you can find a Sat retrofit pdf install procedure it will show you where.
In the e93 its in a different location. Someone said they found it along the rear quarter panels .
Use the following link to help.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
Most Hub E93
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...cab/1VnYptEJWP

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3540

See page 2 in the bluetooth retrofit in the above link should be in the sat retrofit pdf to.

Might be a good time to consider and afgermarket system if you don't have idrive at least for and amp and speakers.

Most Hub location e93
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...cab/1VnYptEJWP

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by ctuna

It just has to be a closed loop . You can reroute around it at the Most
Hub usually found behind the rear passenger seat bolster behind the drivers
seat. If you can find a Sat retrofit pdf install procedure it will show you where.
In the e93 its in a different location. Someone said they found it along the rear quarter panels .
Use the following link to help.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
Most Hub E93
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...cab/1VnYptEJWP

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3540

See page 2 in the bluetooth retrofit in the above link should be in the sat retrofit pdf to.

Might be a good time to consider and afgermarket system if you don't have idrive at least for and amp and speakers.

Most Hub location e93
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...cab/1VnYptEJWP

I have the idrive with the logix 7 amp so it's a pretty nice audio system. I'd like to get it work but I'm definitely over my head on this one. I'll have to study those links a bit closer. Thanks for the help.

I've got several other smaller projects I'm going to try an tackle first like misfire on cyl 2 and cyl 6 I replaced plugs and coils so it's either the drivers on the DME mosfet chips gone bad but more than likely it's the fuel injectors. I have index 7 on bank one and index 8 on bank. Getting ready to buy some injectors.

Heater hose is swollen and about to pop.

Just finished front brakes / rotors with the brake sensor on front and real.

Flushed radiator, brakes, and power steering fluid yesterday.

Other projects. I have to tackle SOS failure ( I think I was checking fuses and misplaced one as I didn't have the SOS failure before) and TPM Malfunction lol. I picked up the car on the cheaper side but buy it's becoming a full time job getting it back to it's glory days.

[ctuna]

How many miles on the car ?
How far underwater was it?
There are a host of other things on a 335 that can cause it
to run rough or misfire . Things like carbon build up on the intake
valves and vacuum leaks. Plus the turbo's

The SOS failure is from your Mulf not working most likely . I would say you should program the SOS function out as BMW does not support that service anymore.
The way to program it out is to program +TELD to the VO as described at the coding sub forums but you have to have a working Mulf first to even do that.

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by ctuna

How many miles on the car ?
How far underwater was it?
There are a host of other things on a 335 that can cause it
to run rough or misfire . Things like carbon build up on the intake
valves and vacuum leaks. Plus the turbo's

The SOS failure is from your Mulf not working most likely . I would say you should program the SOS function out as BMW does not support that service anymore.
The way to program it out is to program +TELD to the VO as described at the coding sub forums but you have to have a working Mulf first to even do that.

Not sure how far underwater it was but you can see from the pic's it had sat there for a while to have the unit look like it does. But once I tried taking the connector off one of the pin's from the unit broke from corrosion. I took all the pins out and cleaned everything back up but the MULF2 Unit is now broken (missing pin). I did notice steady red light coming out of the AMP. I tried on the other modules but did not see a light coming out of any of them but the AMP.

Car has 124K I have a buddy that will do the walnut blast for $250 so I just need to address some issues before I take it to him. I'm struggling with the POST adapter loop testing. It only seems to fit on the MULF2 module. So I ordered another cheap ebay one so I can butcher it up as on that video and start bypassing the other units. I did get ISTA+ up and running and tried to do some checks but it looks like it wants an ICOM cable which I dont have.

First thing I was going to do is swap out my injectors / code them with INPA and they see if it's still missfiring. If it is I'll swap out the coil and plug. But cyl 6 has new coil and plug already. If that fails then I'll look at the DME and check for continuity on the drivers. Hopefully it wont come to that.

Then I was going to swap out the heater return hose and at least get the car in a good running state.

[GEOS07335i]

I got my optic connector and by password the sat Rx still no sound. Question does it mean anything if I see light out of the AMP, MULF2,TCU the only place I don't see light is from the SAT Rx connector? Does that mean the module that precedes the SAT is at fault? If so what module would that be?

[ctuna]

If you have the sat optically bypassed its removed from the system
If you have both the sat and the mulf bypassed that leaves the amp.
The way ptpeinding explains it if there is power to the unit it should have
light shining on one the connector, at the same time there should be light on the cable on the other connector . I am no most bus expert.

[GEOS07335i]

I finally tracked it down. I have a faulty TCU unit. I bypassed the TCU and I have sound! It 's alive it's alive! lol.

A couple of notes. One I left the ignition on and door open through the process while connected to my trickle charger. Two I was able to track down light on all of the modules connector plugs accept from the SAT plug. So what I needed to do is track down the module that precedes the SAT. I had one bypass loop in the SAT unit and with 10 seconds of me putting in the second bypass into the TCU I heard that beautiful door chime. (which I'm sure I will get sick of it soon enough). I plugged the SAT unit back in and still hear the door chime so I'm pretty sure it's the TCU. So right now I have bypassed the TCU. Just need to source a new TCU and button her back up.

[ctuna]

You might as well get a Mulf 2 Hi or combox
if you have idrive/Nav. The mulf 2 hi will get you usb.
The combox would get you streaming bluetooth music
but only if you have nav/idrive.

[feuer]

vasillalov has set for sale: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1434909

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by ctuna

You might as well get a Mulf 2 Hi or combox
if you have idrive/Nav. The mulf 2 hi will get you usb.
The combox would get you streaming bluetooth music
but only if you have nav/idrive.

Yes I replaced mine last week. Picked one up for $80 I replaced it with a MULF2 svs high basis unit. Going back to get a working TCU unit

[ctuna]

No reason to put a TCU in now . It only does BMW SOS a
service BMW no longer supports. A Mulf 2 high will support
bluetooth phone and USB by itself.

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by ctuna

No reason to put a TCU in now . It only does BMW SOS a
service BMW no longer supports. A Mulf 2 high will support
bluetooth phone and USB by itself.

Now that I have the new MULF2 unit installed I dont see my Bluetooth and I dont even have an option to connect my phone. Part numbers were the same.

I did get a new TCU picked it up for $25. I figured this would get rid of the SOS error message I see. I cant figure out how to remove the clips on the antenna's connectors? I tried prying down the the middle of the connector but cant seem to pull it out. I dont want to brake the clips. Any ideas?

[ctuna]

Every time you change a module it requires programming
to integrate the new module with the car.
If you are not a computer person it might be a good idea
to hire a local coder or a remote coder.
Since you live in a metro area I would do a search for
BMW coders in your area.

[GEOS07335i]

Just need to know how to remove the clips

[Thorin]

You mean the FAKRA connectors?

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by Thorin

You mean the FAKRA connectors?

Sure the one's I posted in the picture. Thanks for the name Youtube showed a video where you just push down on the tab and it pulls straight out. I had to pry them out with a tiny screwdriver but it showed me how they connect and disconnect. THANKS!

Swapped out TCU and MULF2 SVS High Basis modules due to water damage in the trunk. This was a direct swap replacement. Everything is back to NORMAL. Not only do I hear sound again but I'm able to Pair my Phone and make calls. No more SOS errors when I start the car. The wonderful door chime is back and the universe is back on course. Best part is NO CODING REQUIRED! I did not have to code anything. The only thing I noticed is during the pairing process with the phone part of the screen gave what appeared to be the last 7 digits of the VIN of the car that it came out of instead of my VIN. But this was just on the screen it did not prevent me from pairing my phone. I was able to pair just fine and call a number from my phone and it's working great.

Special Thanks to ctuna and Thorin for all the help or at least in pointing me in the right direction! I have a few less issues to deal with. Now if you guys could only help me with the engine running like poop issue I'd be set!