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      04-03-2018, 08:56 PM   #1
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Adjust RPM reading due to gauge face

Recently swapped a 335i rpm gauge face to my 328i as i watned the engine oil temp. I notice 328i and 335i have difference rpm reading.

How to change the RPM reading to match the 335 gauge face?


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      04-04-2018, 03:12 AM   #2
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If you use NCS Expert and run the SG_CODIEREN command in Expert mode, that will code everything to default for your car and fix the gauges.
Did you reprogram the EEPROM to your VIN and mileage, or are you living with the tamper dot?
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      04-04-2018, 03:25 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketSurgeon View Post
If you use NCS Expert and run the SG_CODIEREN command in Expert mode, that will code everything to default for your car and fix the gauges.
Did you reprogram the EEPROM to your VIN and mileage, or are you living with the tamper dot?
No I am not using the 335i gauge, i am only using the gauge face.
I took the 335i RPM gauge face and put it into my 328i gauge.
The RPM readings are off by 300rpm. So I need to adjust the RPM to match the new 335i gauge.

"Running the SG_CODIEREN command in Expert mode, that will code everything to default for your car"
From my understanding, this will only calibrate the original 328i reading which is what my car has right now right?
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      04-04-2018, 02:47 PM   #4
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I'm beginning to suspect that your gauge error is the result of needle position. I'm assuming that you had to remove the needles to replace the gauge face. How did you reposition them?
You may need to use INPA or ISTA to command the needles to a specific position so you can properly position the needles.
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      04-04-2018, 03:35 PM   #5
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I would think you need to swap the cluster rather than just the face. Maybe there is some coding that can be done in the Kombi/Combi.

Can you just update the VO in the Kombi only? The Kombi would need to be configured for a 328. Does your oil temp work?
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      04-04-2018, 03:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketSurgeon View Post
I'm beginning to suspect that your gauge error is the result of needle position. I'm assuming that you had to remove the needles to replace the gauge face. How did you reposition them?
You may need to use INPA or ISTA to command the needles to a specific position so you can properly position the needles.
I don't have any gauge error, it's been working great. I marked the position of the needles before i removed them, so i placed on it back to the same position
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      04-04-2018, 03:43 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsjr2006 View Post
I would think you need to swap the cluster rather than just the face. Maybe there is some coding that can be done in the Kombi/Combi.

Can you just update the VO in the Kombi only? The Kombi would need to be configured for a 328. Does your oil temp work?
Yes the temp gauge works excellent, the reading matches INPA engine temp.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1245166
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      04-05-2018, 03:23 AM   #8
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https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DA...b3DrqLvmCCaSAd

You can do this with nettodat coding or, an easier way. Mr Perfekt from the Russian Forums mad a great tool. See link.
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      04-11-2018, 04:48 AM   #9
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Hi there,
When i change the faces of a cluster, i usually, keep the protecting glass off, then , without the pins,needles, or how do you call them, connected to the cluster, I plugin the cluster to the car. In this way, the motors that drive the needles will move them to their '0' position. After I plugin the needles in their places, this is an empiric way to fix the issue, and may require a few trials before completing.
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      04-11-2018, 09:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icon2015 View Post
Hi there,
When i change the faces of a cluster, i usually, keep the protecting glass off, then , without the pins,needles, or how do you call them, connected to the cluster, I plugin the cluster to the car. In this way, the motors that drive the needles will move them to their '0' position. After I plugin the needles in their places, this is an empiric way to fix the issue, and may require a few trials before completing.

Like the reset cluster test without the class and needles?

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      04-11-2018, 09:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sensible_ View Post
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DA...b3DrqLvmCCaSAd

You can do this with nettodat coding or, an easier way. Mr Perfekt from the Russian Forums mad a great tool. See link.
So how does the tool work? Like how do i connect it to my cluster/car?
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      04-12-2018, 02:10 PM   #12
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I'm having a similar thing happening like the OP..

I swapped a 135i cluster into my 128i for the oil temperature gauge, which works perfectly, but the scale for the tacho is off. The 128i read from 0-7000 redline, whereas 135i reads from 0-7000 redline with a 1k red zone to 8000. I know it's off because I should be turning 2500 at 25 mph, but it's indicating around 28-2900 currently. I also know because there's still a good bit more revs left in the engine by the time it hits 7k indicated...

Is there a way (I have all BMW standard tools) to change the scale of tacho? It sits perfectly at zero, all the other gauges are accurate, except the tacho, which is fairly important to me...

Many thanks for the help!
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      04-23-2018, 05:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueeyesredpanda View Post
Like the reset cluster test without the class and needles?

Hi there,
Not that complicated, when the car has its battery connected, and the cluster is removed, at the moment you connect the 'connector' behind the cluster, the cluster will automatically switch to its '0' position, by moving the motors that spin the needles.
So, with the needles removed, and battery connected to the car, plugin your cluster, you will here a small noise (the motors needles are moving to their 0 position), then put one needle at a time to your printed '0' position and push it firmly, it may take several tries, as you might move the motor ax when you are pushing it into position.
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      04-24-2018, 04:25 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icon2015 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueeyesredpanda View Post
Like the reset cluster test without the class and needles?

Hi there,
Not that complicated, when the car has its battery connected, and the cluster is removed, at the moment you connect the 'connector' behind the cluster, the cluster will automatically switch to its '0' position, by moving the motors that spin the needles.
So, with the needles removed, and battery connected to the car, plugin your cluster, you will here a small noise (the motors needles are moving to their 0 position), then put one needle at a time to your printed '0' position and push it firmly, it may take several tries, as you might move the motor ax when you are pushing it into position.
You can also just power the cluster on the bench with a 12v supply to pins 9 and 18.
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