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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > E92 / Android Auto / Morel Virtus 502 / JL XD700/5 / SWS-8x



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      05-12-2015, 01:08 AM   #1
constantin_md
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E92 / Android Auto / Morel Virtus 502 / JL XD700/5 / SWS-8x

Here is my audio upgrade in 2007 bmw e92 335i. I had experience with my previous e90 so i had many installation leftovers and diagrams ready.

The list of things i bought on amazon, ebay, craigslist. I also used google shopping to sort through cheapest deals)
Pioneer AVH-4100nex - $500
jl xd700/5 (used) - $300
morel virtus 502 - $300
JBL P560C - $87
earthquake sws-8x x2 - $221.27
steering adapter metra aswc-1 - $45
knukonceptz krystal 20ft 4 channel rca - $35.49
knukonceptz installation kit 8ga - $23
metra 95-9306B double din kit - $21.98
Parts Express 12 VDC 5-Pin Relay Socket - $3.10
Absolute RLS125 12-VCD Automotive Relay SPDT 30/40A - $3.89
GTMAT 10sqft 50mil - $18.99
hand brake video bypass - $10,48
trunk handle reverse camera - $29
Metra 40-EU10 antenna adapter - $4.50
earthquake subwoofers adapters (used) - $6.46
monoprice 6ft 3.5mm - $3.50
fuse tap mini - $4.29
Metra 70-9003 harness - $4.25
speaker terminal female disconnect - $2.78
speaker ring adapter 0.25''x2 and 0.5''x2 - $14
perfomix 11203 - $10.50
rotozip sc4 bit - $5.75
6ft usb male to female extension - $2.48
6ft hdmi - $1
sonic barrier 1/2 acoustic foam - $15
$1673.71

SOS, Lamp(because of LEDs) warnings, auto-dimmer mirror off, windows roll up by remote key coding done for $60. if you live in Bay Area and need coding find him on craigslist in automotive section.




I didn't have the patience to do a full diy but i'll write a few tips.
Of course this tips are not coming from a professional so consider them at your own risk . They made my installation done without running to a professional installer so i'm happy.
12V constant comes from the radio plug harness (both on my previous e90 and e92 did) so you won't have to run it from the battery. So many instructions state wrong that there is no 12V on radio plug harness, maybe newer cars don't. Use a multimeter.
Disregard the e92 not being listed in the aswc-1 steering wheel adapter manual. Connect the same as e90 instructions
Rotozip bits are great for cutting the door panels.
Use the mdf spacers inner diameter to draw the cutting needed for panels.
Cut the material between leather and door panel where the speaker bolts will go, otherwise that material will go around the bolt and make the installation a mess.
A relay is needed to give 12V+ feed from reverse lamp's to reverse trigger on the radio. On my e90 i had only about 8V on reverse lamp, and in e92 about 40% of the time the feed is lower than 12v and doesn't trigger the rear camera. To power the camera, add a fuse tap to the homelink fuse. I found a yellow/red wire ( 12v key on position) from the wiring loom in the trunk going to the lamps and tapped into that.
To run the wires from the trunk to the trunk door, open the trunk, remove the rubber cover that the wires run through, cut with a sharp blade(carefully) in the middle, run the rear view camera wires, then clean the rubber cover with alcohol and wrap tape around it. It looks ok and i don't think water will go through it.
rear camera wires and other small wires can be installed under the front and rear center console.
Aux wire can be tapped into the oem radio plug harness, no need to go all the way from center console.
Radio, steering wheel control adapter, and video bypass can all be connected to the accessory violet wire under steering column. Don't install the video bypass to the recommended instructions amp turn on wire. It will work intermittently.
Don't run the hdmi cable to the center console, but the glove box instead.
Don't install everything and apply force to screw everything in. You will probably forget to run some wire, or some things won't work as desired and you will have a loose installation afterwards. Better drive around a day or two for testing then put it all in once and forever.
Tape all the wires behind the radio together, some may rattle if you won't.
Plan a task well then do it. Don't rush. It takes longer to redo things or replace broken things.
Careful with the rear speaker panels. They have an optical interior light cable that is very fragile. Don't ask me how i know this
Don't install speakers on the rear deck. It's not worth it.
Speaker adapter rings are better painted than plastidiped, if you choose plastidip make sure to sand them first.
Use weather sealer between speaker and adapter ring also between adapter ring and door panel. Paint the weather sealer outer edges with a marker or anything black.
i ran the power wire for the amp straight to the amp area from battery (not to cause interference with speaker wires) . I cut the metal between trunk and amp area with a saw, hammered the small piece of metal down and made enough space for the wire to go through (see picture) . On the battery terminal there is a red cover. I lift it up, I ran the amp power cable straight to the bolt under the red cover.
Use only plastic tools for disassembling plastic interior parts.
Tweeter mounting hardware from an alpine type s or type r and weather sealer(paint in black with a marker) around jbl tweeters fits great for the rear panels installation. jbl's tweeter mounting hardware is too small.
For the front morel tweeters, yank the oem tweeter bracket from inside of the oem tweeter cover, put the tweeter in, then put the padding in and it's done. It won't rattle.
To raise the subwoofer's grills put 2 or 3 nuts on each bolt between grill and mounting points. Sand flat the area of the grill facing the door. Before removing the front seats mark the carpet on the edge of the seat's metal rail, so you'll now when to stop cutting the carpet around the sub.


Overall i'm very happy with the installation. Windows roll up/down without any issues. Seems like the 0.25'' spacers served their purpose. Android auto is great, plug the phone in and it start automatically. Google maps and usb audio work at the same time.
I spent around $1700 and will resell the old, taken out oem equipment for about $1300 after ebay fees and shipping. I'm reselling it currently on ebay, craigslist and this forum. If you are interested, let me know.

The only thing that didn't fully meet my expectations was the sws-8x subs, but i hope the acoustic foam that i didn't yet install in the enclosure will eliminate the boomy sound past 50% volume.

Collection of diy and diagrams:
https://mega.co.nz/#F!5JYRRKwQ!J99Nkp8YgsjPwrWd48Y_vA







Youtube video:































































Last edited by constantin_md; 05-22-2015 at 07:58 PM..
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      06-14-2018, 01:20 AM   #2
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details on rear camera wiring

Nice post! Thank you for sharing the wiring diagrams and such. Could you please elaborate on the backup camera wiring with the relay?

1) Did you connect the camera power wire to the relay and power it by the 12V lamp wire in the trunk?

2) you also mentioned add a fuse tap to homelink fuse to power the camera? could you please explain this a little more?

I put what you wrote and my understanding in the diagram (I have no homelink fuse tap). it would be a tremendous help if you could point out where I am missing out. As you can see, I am a novice at this.
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      06-14-2018, 09:32 AM   #3
Ali-E90
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Can you please link to where you got the faceplate?

metra 95-9306B double din kit - $21.98
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