[jacobsed]

Originally Posted by madbill683

Update: Yesterday I began the chore, got the front diff fluid changed, and the stuff that came out was not that bad. I was not successful in removing the TC crossmember, so that will wait for another day.

I've re-thought the tranny fluid change, and think I will do a gradual drain & fill. I'll drain the pan, and add 2-3 quarts at a time. The filter can probably wait.

I wish everything was as accessible as the front diff.

When I changed my diff fluid at 100K miles it looked almost new. The manual tranny and TC fluid did not.

[jacobsed]

Originally Posted by ozzy1

It was not super easy (without removing it) but you do not need to remove the cross member. I used a ratching 14mm wrench, and a hammered out 14mm allen head. Hammering it out is quite easy. Flat head and a hammer. Ratcheting helps with what minimal movement we have because the member is not removed. If you get the wrench and the allen paired up and stick it through the limited space, you should be able to place the allen key on the fill bolt. Then since its ratcheting, things are little easier. Obviously, first attempt to loosen the bolt will be the tough part. Hope I am making sense.

I purchased an allen wrench off of ebay delivered for $6 and cut a piece off about an inch long if I remember correctly. Stuck it in the plug and turned it with an open ended wrench tiny bit by tiny bit. Worked great.

[madbill683]

Well, I gotta hand to you guys, you have some skill and patience. I may get an allen wrench and mod it. My TC is very tight. And I think my front jacking point is different, too, since it's a wagon.

Then I was reading the Bentley manual, that also and it said to "use BMW diagnostic tool to carry out Repair service function and complete transfer case programming/coding."

[ozzy1]

Originally Posted by madbill683

Well, I gotta hand to you guys, you have some skill and patience. I may get an allen wrench and mod it. My TC is very tight. And I think my front jacking point is different, too, since it's a wagon.

Then I was reading the Bentley manual, that also and it said to "use BMW diagnostic tool to carry out Repair service function and complete transfer case programming/coding."

If your car is a keeper, definetly invest in a BT tool. It will save you money, from things like battery replacement, TC, and couple of other things. Diagnostics and live logging is pretty cool. Was playing around with Brake Pedal Pressure metric with my daughter the other day (live measurement of applied force to the brake pedal). Extremely detailed product.

[madbill683]

Will have to consider the BT tool. This is my wife's daily car, and she loves it. She's worried BMW will stop bringing the wagons over, when she's ready for a new one in ~5 years.

I'll get an allen wrench and attempt the TC fluid job. Funny, the dealer quote was reasonable, except they quoted 2L of fluid at $55 per liter (it only holds less than 1L) and the labor was $75. Cheaper than the BT tool right now....

What did you think of my drain & fill idea for the tranny?

[ozzy1]

Originally Posted by madbill683

Will have to consider the BT tool. This is my wife's daily car, and she loves it. She's worried BMW will stop bringing the wagons over, when she's ready for a new one in ~5 years.

I'll get an allen wrench and attempt the TC fluid job. Funny, the dealer quote was reasonable, except they quoted 2L of fluid at $55 per liter (it only holds less than 1L) and the labor was $75. Cheaper than the BT tool right now....

What did you think of my drain & fill idea for the tranny?

If you mean, just draining and refilling, thats what I did. Pan/filter will be next time (depends on how oil looks). Quick pointer on that, you refill it first with engine off. Then turn engine on. Then pump more in, takes more. Then do not shut engine off prior to replacing the plug. I did that, without knowing and paid for it. Ton of oil came out. Good thing I had bought extra. So, with engine on, fill until it comes out, put the plug back on then shut engine off. you should be good to go. Also do tranny reset. There is a very simple procedure. Can't remember the routine but it's in here someplace.

[madbill683]

ozzy1,

Thanks for the tip. I read a post that mentioned to start and run the engine until the trans got to temp...I didn't know the fluid would pour out if you shut off the engine, tho. My theory was to introduce the new fluid gradually. I wanted to see how bad the fluid looks at 63,000 miles, and thought the filter could wait.

I was not aware of the need to reset the tranny afterward, have not read that anywhere. I guess this is why the dealer wants $505 in labor to change filter and fluid. This is frustrating, I want to go back to my 90s vintage pre-computer cars.

[ozzy1]

Originally Posted by madbill683

ozzy1,

Thanks for the tip. I read a post that mentioned to start and run the engine until the trans got to temp...I didn't know the fluid would pour out if you shut off the engine, tho. My theory was to introduce the new fluid gradually. I wanted to see how bad the fluid looks at 63,000 miles, and thought the filter could wait.

I was not aware of the need to reset the tranny afterward, have not read that anywhere. I guess this is why the dealer wants $505 in labor to change filter and fluid. This is frustrating, I want to go back to my 90s vintage pre-computer cars.

Yeah, but it's not too bad. I was really afraid maintenance would be a hassle after my acura tsx, I was wrong. It really isn't bad(reliability helps of course). And actually Germans continue to amaze me with their engineering. Dealing with the computer for everything is a bit obnoxious but hey...

[Ph0zenstone]

Any updates on this? i have a June 2007 build 328xi and will likely DIY the transfer case and front/rear diffs. Do i need to do a reset? I'm afraid because i don't have the BT Tool. If the xcase goes into limp mode is it drivable?

[ozzy1]

Originally Posted by phozenstone

Any updates on this? i have a June 2007 build 328xi and will likely DIY the transfer case and front/rear diffs. Do i need to do a reset? I'm afraid because i don't have the BT Tool. If the xcase goes into limp mode is it drivable?

I didn't want to touch my TC without a BT tool. Bought one then did it. Would recommend the same.

[Ph0zenstone]

Originally Posted by ozzy1

I didn't want to touch my TC without a BT tool. Bought one then did it. Would recommend the same.

Is the car drivable with the xcase in limp mode? My dealer is only 4 miles from me if anything goes wrong..

[T0NE*F32]

Thinking about changing the TC fluid soon. but not sure bout this.. When filling up with new fluid, how to tell when its full? When it over flows?

[jacobsed]

Originally Posted by Tone*e90

Thinking about changing the TC fluid soon. but not sure bout this.. When filling up with new fluid, how to tell when its full? When it over flows?

Yes. It will take just over a half liter. Be sure to take out the fill plug first. You don't want to drain it and then find out you can't add fluid back in because of a stuck plug.

[T0NE*F32]

Originally Posted by jacobsed

Yes. It will take just over a half liter. Be sure to take out the fill plug first. You don't want to drain it and then find out you can't add fluid back in because of a stuck plug.

Thanks dude..

[Ph0zenstone]

got my bt tool...will do the front and rear diffs and xcase tomorrow!

[E36graduate]

Pushing 35K miles on synthetic ATF in TC with about 450+ bph of E85/methanol and finally changed out clutch this past week.

Took out tranny (picture attached). Decided to change out all fluids. Transfer case fluid looked like the day I put it in, no metal, no debris, no black stuff, no burnt smell, nothing, just nice looking red fluid. Refilled with Mobile 1 synthetic ATF, again. Will take a look in another year or two after another 30k miles.

I didn't have to reset anything? AWD light went off after a few miles.

I may be a "risk" taker, make decent money so I'm not trying to save $50 for special TC fluid, just noticed a lot of XI's have used synthetic ATF/and blends back in the early 2000's. Not saying the E90 is the same Xi TC as an E46, and that I don't suggest anyone else do this so don't be hating me.

I also was a "risk" taker with my E46 M3 and use to blend various ATF and MTF in my 6 speed to help eliminate clutch chatter....had about 120,000 miles on that car with the original clutch.

Look at the size of this transmission/TC.....impressive! I put a little MTL with my ATF in the tranny too!!!

The E90 is getting up in age so there are used TC out there for $300-$500 if I ever need one. Would take about 2 hours to get one in and out, no big deal.

p.s. My rear differential fluid at 120,000 miles was nice and clean, very viscose.

[Kunlune90]

changed transfer case fluid today for E90 2010 328i xdrive, 126687 miles. First time transfer case fluid change.

Let car sleep before drain the transfer case fluid. Put in OEM transfer case fluid.
Drained out about 350 mL fluid and put in about 500 mL. The fluid drained out is black but no burnt smell. The same smell as the new fluid. Maybe the long miles consumed some transfer case fluid, but there is no code and the car drives normal.

Driven 15 miles with no codes. Scanned with OBDII and no hidden codes. Seems setting not needed.