[Rva_e90]

Hello, I have a 2009 328i with 103k miles, I had two oil leaks, the valve and the oil gasket. I replaced both as well as my drive belt. Now that the cold weather is settling in (I live in VA) my car won't start but it cranks a lot. It usually starts after 10-20 minutes. This only happens with the cold weather. Once the car starts, it runs fine.

The symptoms:
Rough idle
Crank but no start
RPM's fluxate

After taking it to BMW for the PCV Valve Heater recall, they didn't find anything present that would cause my engine to keep misfiring during startup. I just cleaned the Vanos Solenoid, the battery is in good condition based on the inspection test done by BMW. What I think is since I had a really bad oil leak (it covered the whole engine, under the hood) something maybe would have been clogged by any oil. Or maybe oil pressure?

Any help or input would really help me out. Thank you.

*EDIT*: Car doesn't crank anymore, but all lights turn on so it could not be my battery.

[tan_rich]

How's your battery?

[Rva_e90]

Originally Posted by tan_rich

How's your battery?

Based by the inspection made by BMW, it's fine. Do you think i should check it?

[lowrydr310]

Do you have a check engine light or any codes being thrown? This could be any number of things which are too difficult to diagnose over the internet with limited information. If any codes are present that will help significantly.

If the car is cranking and starter sounds strong, it isn't likely to be a bad battery or a failing starter. Faulty coils and plugs may cause trouble starting and will most certainly cause a rough idle. When was the last time the spark plugs and coils were changed? Do you have any air leaks, like cracked vent tubes or cracked intake?

If it's a sensor issue, you might have some stored codes. I recently had a long cranking condition one morning (about 5 seconds) and then the car started and the idle was fluctuating but settled after another 10 seconds. I had no check engine light, but I pulled a 2A9A code which is "camshaft sensor inlet signal invalid for synchronization." This hasn't come back yet, though I plan to clean the VANOS solenoids (there are two) as I have read this code is typically associated with the VANOS system and oil pressure.

[josehon]

Check eccentric shaft sensor plug for oil. If there is oil, most likely the sensor has gone bad.

I have the exact problem, car won’t start when cold. Replaced the sensor and the problem solved.

[Rva_e90]

Originally Posted by josehon

Check eccentric shaft sensor plug for oil. If there is oil, most likely the sensor has gone bad.

I have the exact problem, car won’t start when cold. Replaced the sensor and the problem solved.

Thank you for replying. This might be it, I have two very bad oil leaks, one from the valve gasket and the oil housing gasket. Oil was all over the engine and eventually it got all over the belt and it broke. My car doesn't crank anymore. It's been in my driveway since 10/26. I will double check it.

[Rva_e90]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Do you have a check engine light or any codes being thrown? This could be any number of things which are too difficult to diagnose over the internet with limited information. If any codes are present that will help significantly.

If the car is cranking and starter sounds strong, it isn't likely to be a bad battery or a failing starter. Faulty coils and plugs may cause trouble starting and will most certainly cause a rough idle. When was the last time the spark plugs and coils were changed? Do you have any air leaks, like cracked vent tubes or cracked intake?

If it's a sensor issue, you might have some stored codes. I recently had a long cranking condition one morning (about 5 seconds) and then the car started and the idle was fluctuating but settled after another 10 seconds. I had no check engine light, but I pulled a 2A9A code which is "camshaft sensor inlet signal invalid for synchronization." This hasn't come back yet, though I plan to clean the VANOS solenoids (there are two) as I have read this code is typically associated with the VANOS system and oil pressure.

Thank you for replying, since I don't have a scanner, I cannot see the codes. I do get a check engine light as well as 4x4 icon. The car doesn't crank anymore, but it starts. I thought it was the vanos solenoid, I cleaned them and still no luck.

When I took it to BMW, the only bad issue, it had was an oil pan gasket leak. Everything else was fine. I took it to BMW for the PCV recall, which I thought it would fix the rough starts and rough idling, but it did not.

Is it possible that i might have some oil on a senor? I had two bad oil leaks which would cover my engine with oil.

[GQBlue]

Crankshaft position sensor had the same issue and symptoms, replaced and have been fine since

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by Rva_e90

Is it possible that i might have some oil on a senor?

Sí señor.

In all seriousness, you need to get the specific BMW fault codes read to properly diagnose this.

Oil on the eccentric shaft sensor doesn't make the sensor stop working properly. Oil seeping through the sensor and showing on the connector is a symptom of a failed sensor.

Read the BMW specific codes to see what the specific problem is. Otherwise you'll just have a bunch of strangers on the internet guessing or making comments about possible issues that might not even be related.

[ctuna]

Ditto to what the last guy said.
Get the Bimmergeeks.net cable and software.

[Rva_e90]

Thank you all for your replies, the shop found out the eccentric shaft sensor has stopped working. It's a $1600 dollar fix.

[nsjames]

ooof.
are they replacing the valve cover for that price as well?

it's kind of steep. Then again I've been a DIY guy forever and have never paid for major service at a shop.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Rva_e90

2009 328i with 103k miles...my car won't start but it cranks a lot. It usually starts after 10-20 minutes. This only happens with the cold weather. Once the car starts, it runs fine...After taking it to BMW for the PCV Valve Heater recall, they didn't find anything present that would cause my engine to keep misfiring during startup...*EDIT*: Car doesn't crank anymore, but all lights turn on so it could not be my battery.

Originally Posted by Rva_e90

... My car doesn't crank anymore. It's been in my driveway since 10/26...

Originally Posted by Rva_e90

...since I don't have a scanner, I cannot see the codes. I do get a check engine light as well as 4x4 icon. The car doesn't crank anymore, but it starts...When I took it to BMW, the only bad issue, it had was an oil pan gasket leak. Everything else was fine. I took it to BMW for the PCV recall, which I thought it would fix the rough starts and rough idling, but it did not...

Originally Posted by Rva_e90

...the shop found out the eccentric shaft sensor has stopped working. It's a $1600 dollar fix.

I'm NOT understanding exactly what is currently happening when you START or try to start your car. The "old-school" definition of "cranking" is the starter turning or cranking the engine (think 100 years ago before electric starter motors and hand cranks to turn the engine ;-). As most people use the terms, the starter cranks the engine, and the engine "fires" or runs on its own after 1 to 2 seconds of cranking, IF all is well.

So what is your current situation?
1) Does the Starter "crank" or turn the engine as normal when you press START?
2) If you Press Start (with your foot on brake pedal) and immediately release it, does the Starter continue to crank the engine, and if so, for how long?
3) When pressing/releasing START as in (2) above does the engine "fire" or run, and if so, after how many seconds of "cranking?"

If your primary problem is that the engine will NOT start, or that it idles rough for a moment after startup (you said "once the car starts, it runs fine"), then a leaking oil sump/ pan gasket is NOT a problem related to engine operation.

You also said: "the shop found out the eccentric shaft sensor has stopped working. It's a $1600 dollar fix." What "shop" made that finding, based upon what codes or tests, and HOW has it "stopped working"? Did they show you that oil was seeping from the pin sockets in the sensor, on the Right-Front of the Valve Cover? I don't believe a malfunctioning ESS (Eccentric Shaft Sensor) would prevent the engine from starting. The engine should start even if you disconnected the ESS Connector from the ESS. Your engine would be in limp mode with NO power, but it SHOULD start.

If YOU changed the Valve Cover Gasket yourself, then you already know how to do everything to access the ESS to change it, and that part costs ~ $300, and the procedure is in TIS:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...e-gear/EiwkDj6

That is IF you need to change the ESS at all. Need answers to the questions above to get properly focused on the primary problem, and get a proper diagnosis BEFORE throwing any more parts/ time/ money at it.

George

[nsjames]

if the ESS sensor reports the valve position incorrectly it will cause a no start.
I have experienced it.

I tried to start my junk one day and it refused. After 4 attempts I pulled out the ista, it showed nothing.
on a hunch I went ahead and commanded a relearn of the valvetronic limits. I heard the valvetronic motor do valvetronic things, then my junk started.

It was fine all summer, but when it got cold again the problem returned. The occasional rough/no start. Again I did a relearn to force the system back to wherever it was supposed to be and the car runs fine.

obviously it is a problem with my valvetrinic, and most likely an ESS that's just a little out of spec or wonky.
My VC is leaking, so I'm into it for an ESS while I'm there as well. My connector has no oil in it, and I've made sure that all pins are making contact and clean. it's something internal.

[Rva_e90]

Originally Posted by nsjames

ooof.
are they replacing the valve cover for that price as well?

it's kind of steep. Then again I've been a DIY guy forever and have never paid for major service at a shop.

i already had my valve cover replaced, that price is for the ESS itself. I wish i had the proper tools to do DIY (

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by Rva_e90

i already had my valve cover replaced, that price is for the ESS itself. I wish i had the proper tools to do DIY (

Sounds too much money. It is pretty much same thing as a valve cover gasket replacement job, with addition of the new sensor cost and time for unbolting the old one and bolting in the new one.

[Rva_e90]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Sounds too much money. It is pretty much same thing as a valve cover gasket replacement job, with addition of the new sensor cost and time for unbolting the old one and bolting in the new one.

i agree, i also have to replace my oil pan gasket and they want $1600 for that

[PhaseP]

On an xi oil pan gasket replacement is time consuming, that may be justifiable but you can still ask other shops.

$1600 for ESS replacement doesn't sound reasonable at all.

[Rva_e90]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

On an xi oil pan gasket replacement is time consuming, that may be justifiable but you can still ask other shops.

$1600 for ESS replacement doesn't sound reasonable at all.

you're right, they wanted 3,200 for both ESS and oil pan. I have to get the ESS replaced since it stopped working, my car wouldn't turn on

For the oil pan, im going to look around and try to find a place that charges cheaper. What would be a good price range for a oil pan gasket change

[PhaseP]

You will have to call around. I personally don't know the prices.

[Tboshuyzen]

I had this is issue with my car. It appeared to be an electronic issues as the seats would not move manually and the wipers would come on while cranking but not start. After much thought and no codes I thought that several of the modules were not being recognized correctly. This lead me to believe it was a ground issue. The chassis to engine ground was replaced on a previous shops attempt to correct the issue. I decided to try using a jumper cable and ground different areas of the car. When I placed a groun beTween the strut towers to my surprise the car started. I then placed a heavy gauge wire beTween the two towers ensure the left and right side of The car was at the same potential and the car continues to start fine. My thought is this has cleaned up the buss signals allowing the electronics to validate properly. I think I have masked a ground problem with one or more of the modules involved. But it seems to be working so far.