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TMAP issues... codes inside
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08-24-2019, 10:13 PM | #1 |
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TMAP issues... codes inside
Hey all!
I recently bought a 2008 335xi and kept getting a throttle angle code. After doing some research I saw that sometimes this is throttle body related. So I went to see what I could see. Well, I found a nice crack in the tmap so I decided to replace. Currently stock, but got a good deal locally on an n20 sensor. So I repinned the harness, and swapped in the n20. Uploaded the n20 option via mhd to my stage 1 map. Consistently have been getting codes 2ABC and 3100. Sometimes they will go away for a single drive, and pop back on the next startup. This is my main issue I believe. I have now, repinned the harness back, and put my cracked stock tmap back in. Still showing the codes. Also seems like I am now getting primary o2 codes as well. 2A2B and 2A2C I am assuming a few things are at play. Previous owner put on an n55 midpipe in so I do pull cat codes (29F4 and 29F5) every handful of drives. I am wondering if I damaged my actual map sensor wiring somehow? Seems like ever since this, it has just been a kind of downpour. I am wondering if any of these correlate at all, or if I should just start throwing money at her. I would rather be a bit more informed first though. Can someone help a newb out? Any light shed is greatly appreciated as I am very new to this platform, but built rotaries and subarus for years prior. Thanks in advance! |
08-24-2019, 10:48 PM | #2 |
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Also replaced both boost solenoids and no change.
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08-25-2019, 03:32 PM | #3 |
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Popped the n20 back in, repinned again, still pulling the same codes.
Since I got sick and tired of searching and finding little to no resolution on lots of people with similar issues. I feel the need to document as much of this as I can. Have tried stock maps, stage 1 maps, n20 tmap specific settings, and still no dice. I am no electrician, so I will most likely be bringing the car in to the shop this week (which makes me feel utterly defeated) to trace the tmap wires. I fear like my problem is in the wiring for some reason. Will report back, but any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! |
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08-25-2019, 11:34 PM | #4 |
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Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90
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Which t-map sensor did you replace? I assume the one in the charge pipe. Have you tried replacing the one in the intake manifold?
I'd definitely get rid of the the n55 pipe. How old are your o2 sensors? N20 sensor? Unless you are planning on going over 20 psi, I probably would have just gone stock. |
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08-26-2019, 08:51 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
Sadly, the n55 pipe is all I have for now, but keeping an eye out for options on the used marketplace. Unsure of o2 sensor age, so I wouldn't be surprised if they are a little suspect. So, that being said... I have a very positive update. Today I completely cut out and remade a new harness plug with a few extra inches of 18gauge wire. I rebuilt the harness with the following part numbers: -4 silicone/rubber weatherpack seals (BMW # 61138366245) -4 wire terminals (BMW # 12527545858) -1 wire harness (I did have to remove the black piece with a razor blade. It appears to be epoxied on the both short sides) (BMW # 12527549033) -a replacement stock map sensor (BMW # 13627585493) I bought some 18gauge wire and heatshrink as well. No pictures, but after a reflash without the n20 sensor option, I am now CEL free! Only codes at this time are the known codes for the n55 midpipe. Given all that, it looks like my issues were in the map sensor plug and wiring (albeit, if wiring, within an inch of the map sensor plug). So it looks like, for now, all is well! ![]() Last edited by sleepydave; 08-26-2019 at 09:16 PM.. Reason: typo |
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08-26-2019, 10:16 PM | #6 | ||
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Quote:
Both are currently up for grabs. Both do come with mid-pipes back. For about the same amount of money, you could get a VRSF street or race exhaust brand new. It comes mid-pipe back too. It all depends on what you want your car to sound like. The PE is the best exhaust, IMO. |
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