[Pete.J]

Deleted

[iliketurtl3s]

Which DMF did u opt for?

[scanspeak]

This is awesome. Looking forward to watching your progress.

[Hoper]

Excellent Pete, really looking forward to hearing about the streetability of the lightweight flywheel and spec 2+

I'd like to do this but my car is a DD so i'm not sure if I should if it rattles too much, is too hard to use in heavy traffic etc etc

[TimMc]

With all this work, are you not thinking about installing an LSD Pete?

[Socket]

Very cool thread Pete

Thanks for putting so much work into detailing this
We are doing the manual conversion on spcgry weekend after next, so we can contribute so pics for the write up

[DR-JEKL]

I had bought the nulon product that is similar to the MOS2



Nice write up Pete love your work!

[Hoper]

Originally Posted by PeterY

Couple of informative videos by LuK about the Dual Mass Flywheel, and its functionality. According to LuK, I am an idiot for fitting a Single Mass Flywheel to my car haha (second video).

LuK is a German manufacturer of automotive drivetrain components, they manufacture the flywheels and clutches for our cars (and most BMW's for that matter).

2nd vid, wow not many Dorothy Dix questions in there....very realistic question and answer session, I didn't spot any hint at all that it was swayed towards the LuK product

[DR-JEKL]

Great minds think alike , give us a review once you put in. Do you know what anti-wear additive Nulon use in their product?

LiquiMoly use Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2), which is a very widely used anti-wear compound, ZDDP is another one widely used. From now onwards I'll be pouring in a 1qt bottle of Redline Racing oil with the regular Redline 5W-40 I usually use. Racing oils are fortified with ZDDP, over 4 times the number of particles per million. The only disadvantage is they're bad for the cats, but I got catless dp's, not sure what the effect will be on the secondary cats though, they're further downstream, and cost of course is the other disadvantage.

https://www.nulon.com.au/products/sp...diff-treatment

Some info on here. I wanted the liqui moly product shipping was very exxy from FCP (they dont stock it they get it shipped from LM USA) decided to buy the nulon product from SCA instead!

[jzx_andy]

Hey Pete,

I am looking at tackling the swap but can't really work out which engine wiring harness I'd need to connect the manual transmission module in an OEM fashion. A few of the LHD guides mention purchasing OEM part # 12517556381 (engine wiring harness for manual transmission module), but it doesn't look like our RHD manual cars came with this harness. What did you do?

[Aus335iguy]

I believe Socket and vtl have tackled the conversion as well. If PeterY doesn't come back to you, I know he's a busy bloke.

[vtl]

I did the wiring on both Peter and Phil's cars. There's no point getting a manual transmission harness, as all the wires that go to the firewall require the matching body harness pins to be present (which they don't on an auto car).

This would mean having to run wires from the clutch pedal all the way to the firewall behind the dash, and also from the FRM to the dash. No thank you.

There's only 1 wire that needs to go to the firewall and that is the clutch signal for dme. I ended up finding theres a wire from the CAS unit to the firewall (P signal for trans). The CAS is near the clutch pedal so I ran the clutch signal as

- Depin P signal at cas
- Wire clutch pedal to P signal wire
- Wire P signal at firewall to clutch signal input at DME

The rest of the wiring is just power and ground and CAS pins for the clutch switch, and the reverse signal for the FRM which is pretty easy to do point to point. I ran the wire from the FRM through the hole in the transmission tunnel where the Auto shifter grommet used to be, then to transmission.

[jzx_andy]

Originally Posted by vtl

I did the wiring on both Peter and Phil's cars. There's no point getting a manual transmission harness, as all the wires that go to the firewall require the matching body harness pins to be present (which they don't on an auto car).

This would mean having to run wires from the clutch pedal all the way to the firewall behind the dash, and also from the FRM to the dash. No thank you.

There's only 1 wire that needs to go to the firewall and that is the clutch signal for dme. I ended up finding theres a wire from the CAS unit to the firewall (P signal for trans). The CAS is near the clutch pedal so I ran the clutch signal as

- Depin P signal at cas
- Wire clutch pedal to P signal wire
- Wire P signal at firewall to clutch signal input at DME

The rest of the wiring is just power and ground and CAS pins for the clutch switch, and the reverse signal for the FRM which is pretty easy to do point to point. I ran the wire from the FRM through the hole in the transmission tunnel where the Auto shifter grommet used to be, then to transmission.

Thanks Vince. The collective knowledge between you and the rest of the usual suspects from the Aussie section is invaluable!