[TedIsBoosted]

Hello all,



So I regularly do motorway trips, and since I snapped my nipple off of my valve I have just left it unplugged. It's a nice noise but can get a bit boring after a while.



Just want to share with all of you a diagram and a little tutorial on how to make your own cheap controller. After looking around online, I couldn't find any information around how to do it, plus there was a post on E90 about it, and someone took the idea and started selling them :tearsofjoy: (got to respect the hustle)



The photos and setup of this is all very loose, as I couldn't find my solder, but obviously if you don't have access to one, you can just strip the wire and connect them and use electrical tape to hide the rest of the copper.



VIDEO OF IT IN USE



THIS WILL BE PHOTO HEAVY



This is the PARTS list (obviously yours will be different prices/locations, as mine is UK) :



EV1 Male and Female Connector £4.99



Wireless relay with Remote £10.99 (Triple click the white button then click any button on remote to activate latched mode (needs power))



Wire Crimping Tool (Any) £7.99



17 AMP Cable 4M (Any Size/Colour) £3.90



PARTS List for if your nipple has snapped off, I used these but obviously you can use any size etc.



3.5MM Nipple to 1/8 NPT



Any 9MM drill bit which can slice through metal. Obviously start small and work your way up.



JB WELD / Any sticky epoxy which doesn't mind heat.



Also an Angle grinder, or any sort of metal cutting instrument to chop the threads.



Valve Controller Install :



I have added my wiring diagram to STEP 12



Step 1 : Gather all components listed above.



Step 2 : Ensure your board has all necessary connections (NC, COM, NO, +V, -V) there might be some variations but should be named in a similar fashion)





Step 3 : Connect the cable (colour of your choice) to make a positive connection into the EV1 Female (look on diagram to confirm which side (this takes power))





Step 4 : Connect this newly made positive wire into COM and +V





Step 5 : Make the ground and EV1 Male Connector





Step 6 : Attach the ground to the EV1 and find somewhere to place it follow cable to right side of EV1 (When its facing correct orientation)





Step 7 : In the same orientation of the original power line will need to be connected to either NC or NO. These stand for Normally-Closed and Normally-Open.

If you select Normally-Open it means the circuit is always broken. So the car will cold start with the exhaust fully open.

If you select Normally-Closed it means the circuit is powered so on cold start it will be powered and will close the valve.



Now pick which one you would like and connect it to NO or NC







Step 8 : Open the boot/trunk and on the left hand side pull the trim to access the solenoid, its just some simple spin clips. Find one of the millions of tutorials online, same concept as finding your cars amplifier (if applicable)



Step 9 : Install the grounded plug somewhere (I found this bolt)





Step 10 : Install the positive wire into the OEM PLUG




Step 11 : Connect the EV1 Male into the solenoid





Step 12 : Enjoy.









Nipple Install :



Step 1 : Either remove the exhaust or jack the back of car up enough to fit a drill under.



Step 2 : Grab the drill bit, and drill the hole.



Step 3 : Cut enough of the threads so that when you push the actuator arm by hand it goes fully in (I didn't realise this the first time)



Step 4 : Smother the rest of the threads or the socket side with JB weld (careful not to block the hole)



Step 5 : Stick it into the drilled holes, and make sure once its in to put some more JB around the outside so it creates a nice seal. Also test actuator arm works fully.





Thanks for reading this, please ask any questions either on the thread or message me.