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KWV2 question...
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05-25-2008, 02:27 AM | #1 |
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KWV2 question...
So i just got my KWV2s installed yesterday and when the guy put the car on the ground with everything installed, the front suspension was nice and low almost to how i would want it but the rear seemed just as high as stock even on like half way lowered...he then put the car back up and adjusted them to the lowest possible setting and it barley went any lower. So after he said give it a couple days and hopefully they will settle a lot, and i think they have over the first 24 hours but not too much. He said since its on the lowest setting and not lowering too much then he might be able to but one full coil off the spring to make it lower but i wasnt sure if this was such a good idea. Anyways, has anyone ever had this problem or know of any ways that i can fix my rear suspension so that on the lowest setting it is actually like slammed?? Thanks, Mike.
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05-25-2008, 02:43 AM | #2 |
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do NOT cut the spring! spring rate will change, the car will behave differently than designed and the shocks will bottom out easier and wear out faster. it can be dangerous as the structure of the spring is changed.
KW should be very low on the lowest setting, someone else can chime in on what is wrong here.
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05-25-2008, 02:55 AM | #3 | |
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05-25-2008, 05:10 AM | #4 |
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you should get this suspension system this guy had at bimmerfest. You can adjust the front and back separatly with a button. Pretty crazy. This is it at its lowest setting possible...
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05-25-2008, 07:42 AM | #5 | |
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Do you have a pics of the rear installment?
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05-25-2008, 07:55 AM | #6 |
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You need to get a tape measure out.
What's the distance from the MIDDLE of the wheel (center of wheel hub) to the bottom edge of fender(s)? Please provide measurement in mm's. I'm not sure if the V2 ride height adjusts the same way as V3, but it sounds to me like they might have been installed incorrectly. The adjustable spring perch (purple) should be sitting on TOP of the springs. Also, maybe the rear springs have been installed upside down? BTW, depending on how hard you drive your car, the springs WILL settle (my rear dropped almost 15mm after the first week (1500 miles). Mind you, I was at the track for a day driving somewhat aggressively.
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05-25-2008, 09:17 AM | #7 |
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i would guess that they were installed incorrectly. the kw's must be against the frame, you have to remove the old factory rubber bushings from the body. i ran into the same exact problem.
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05-25-2008, 02:27 PM | #8 |
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Did they install the rears upside down? You should pop off the wheel and take a pic. Something is definitely installed wrong if its at the lowest setting and the rear isn't SLAMMED on those coilovers.
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05-26-2008, 03:51 AM | #9 |
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He most likely messed up the install. A few members on this board had the same problem. It has to do with not tightening the shocks all the way. Do a search, there is a few posts about this.
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05-26-2008, 02:43 PM | #10 |
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thanks for the help guys, I am going back to the shop soon to see if they can help me get everything fixed...I have another request, can someone explain to me how I get to the purple nobs and how I turn them to make them stiffer. They installer set each nob to 9 out of 18 which is half way stiffness but I deffinetly want to go stiffere, I might try 13/18 or so. So if anyone could explain it to me like a DIY, that would be great. Thanks.
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05-26-2008, 02:59 PM | #11 | |
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05-26-2008, 04:20 PM | #12 |
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Thanks man, I just adjusted the front which was very easy but I wasnt expecting there to be such little turning. I noticed that from fully soft to fully stiff is only about 4 full turns, is this normal. I did take it for a drive shortly after and 100% noticed a handling difference and now I can also hear the PSHT noise much more every time I hit a decent size bump, which is cool. I put both front on FULLY stiff and comfort wise its still fine so I think ill leave it for now. I then attempted the rear but wasnt sure what parts of the capeting of the trunk I needed to remove to get to it. Can you explain to me what I need to remove to get to the rear suspension. Thanks, Mike.
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05-26-2008, 04:34 PM | #13 | |
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For removing the rear trunk liner you can use this as a guide... http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27474 Hope this helps. ![]() BTW, you should just pop your wheel off and take a pic... I have a feeling that your rear springs/perch are installed upside down.
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05-26-2008, 05:14 PM | #14 |
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Just to second what Boosted said about running at 100% firm - KW warns not to do this *dial it back one or two clicks*.
From KW Adj guide: Never drive the vehicle with the shock absorbers set to full hard or full soft! Never apply force to the adjusting mechanism of the shock absorber. As soon as you reach the end of the adjustment range, you will recognize a certain resistance. Stop turning to avoid damage to the bottom valve. I'd also be interested to see a picture of your rear spring / perch setup. I'm guessing either / both the perch isn't sitting on top of spring, and/or the spring is installed upside down (there is a top and bottom to the spring).
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05-26-2008, 10:55 PM | #15 |
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Ok I will take a picture soon for you guys to check it out and help me with whats wrong with the suspension. So far everything feels proper going over bumps and stuff. I got around to removing the trunk parts and tightened up the rear coils to almost full, equal to the front stiffness. The suspension is deffinetly stiffer and I was hopping it would help me with the rubbing issues that I am having as well which I forgot to mention, it still rubs when I rip a corner hard but only in the rear. Is there anyway for me to fix this, maybe aligment with more negative camber? or cutting the inner fender, ive also already rolled the fenders. PS I am running 20s 245/30/20 fronts and 285/25/20 rears.
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