[malave53]

SI B12 04 05
Engine Electrical Systems October 2008
Technical Service
This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI B12 04 05 July 2007.
[NEW] designates changes to this revision
SUBJECT
Check Engine Lamp Illuminated and/or Vehicle Overheats MODEL
[NEW] E83 (X3) with N52K engine
[NEW] E85 and E86 (Z4) with N52 engine
[NEW] E70 (X5) with N52K engine
[NEW] E90, E91, E92 and E93 (3 Series) with N51, N52 and N52K engines
[NEW] E60 and E61 (5 Series) with N52 and N52K engine
[NEW] All models above produced up to December 31st, 2006
SITUATION
The customer complains that the Check Engine lamp is illuminated and/or that the vehicle overheated. One or more of the following fault codes is stored in the DME:
FC 2E81 Electric coolant pump, speed deviation, speed outside the tolerance
FC 2E82 Electric coolant pump cutoff, over-current
FC 2E83 Electric coolant pump, power-reduced operation, dry run
FC 2E84 Electric coolant pump, communication
FC 2E85 Electric coolant pump, communication, no voltage at emergency operation input of pump
CAUSE
One of the following can be the cause:
- Insufficient power supply
- Insufficient grounding
- BSD signal not present
- Defective electric coolant water pump
- Electric coolant pump water pump processor disturbance
PROCEDURE A
This procedure only applies to vehicles produced after September 1, 2005. Both faults must be stored; if any other combination of the faults is stored, refer to procedure B.
- FC 2E81 Electric coolant pump, speed deviation, speed outside the tolerance
- FC 2E85 Electric coolant pump, communication, no voltage at emergency operation input of pump
1. Remove both battery cables from the battery for 15 minutes .
2. After reconnecting the battery cables, clear the vehicle fault memory and ensure that the electric coolant pump operates using the bleeding procedure, described at the end of this bulletin.
PROCEDURE B
This procedure applies to all vehicles with any combination of faults listed below.
FC 2E81 Electric coolant pump, speed deviation, speed outside the tolerance
FC 2E82 Electric coolant pump cutoff, over-current
FC 2E83 Electric coolant pump, power-reduced operation, dry run
FC 2E84 Electric coolant pump, communication
FC 2E85 Electric coolant pump, communication, no voltage at emergency operation input of pump
NOTE: All measurements should be performed with the battery charger connected to the vehicle.
1. Measure the following at connector X6035 on the electric coolant water pump:
- E90 and E91 - Pin 1 (fuse F09) and Pin 4 ground (X6455) = 12 volts
- E60 and E61 - Pin 1 (fuse F23 and Pin 4 ground (X6455) = 12 volts
- Pin 2 (fuse F02) and Pin 4 ground (X6455) = 12 volts
- Pin 3 BSD signal (DME Pin 26) and Pin 4 ground (X6455) = 7.5 - 8.5 volts
- If any of the above measurements are incorrect, continue troubleshooting using the DIS Plus or GT1 to determine the source of the problem.
- If all of the above measurements are correct, proceed to step 2.
2. Replace the electric coolant water pump (PN 11 51 7 546 994) in accordance with Repair Instruction RA 11 51 000.
3. After performing any service work requiring draining of the coolant, the system must be bled to ensure that there are no air pockets present. The system can be bled using the DISplus/GT-1 or by following a special procedure. To bleed the system, follow the procedure described at the end of this bulletin.
BLEEDING (VENTING) THE COOLING SYSTEM
NOTE: BMW recommends filling the cooling system for protection against freezing down to -34 degrees F (-37 degrees C) ; this is an antifreeze ratio of 50% antifreeze and 50% water. In severely cold areas, the antifreeze can be increased to 60%, which provides freezing protection down to -62 degrees F (-52 degrees C) . Do not exceed a 60% ratio of antifreeze.
The specified antifreeze ratio is important, since an insufficient amount would impair antifreezing and corrosion-inhibiting protection. An excessive amount would not improve freezing protection, but would instead reduce freezing protection. At all times, the antifreeze and water should be premixed before pouring into the engine. If premixing is not performed, damage will occur to the water pump assembly.
NOTE: Always connect a battery charger while performing the bleeding process.
1. Fill the system with coolant via the expansion tank (AGB). Top up the coolant level to the lower edge of the expansion tank.
2. Close the expansion tank.
3. Switch on the ignition.
4. Set heating to the maximum (temperature); switch on the blower (lowest stage).
5. Press the accelerator pedal module to the floor for at least 10 seconds . The engine must NOT be started.
6. Bleeding via EWP takes approximately 12 minutes . Then check the coolant level in the expansion tank; top up to the MAX marking if necessary.
7. Check the cooling circuit and drain the plugs for leaks.
8. If the procedure needs to be repeated several times, allow the DME to completely de-energize (remove the ignition key for approx. 3 minutes ) and then repeat the procedure, starting from item 3.


Read more: scanned a 2006 525xi and codes 2ef5,2e81,2a82,2e82 present have - JustAnswer http://www.justanswer.com/bmw/2ds7s-scanned-2006-525xi-codes-2ef5-2e81-2a82-2e82-present-have.html#

----------------------------------------------- (my thoughts below)---------

Does not pertain to e92 on paper but still helpful in regards to plausible causes.

After doing some more research.....2e83 could be a dry run.... Another member on here had the same code and found a leak at a hose. You mentioned you had coolant spilled out the reservoir? Check your coolant level. If the pump had a dry run/lower flow of coolant... Not good. Should always have flow of coolant going through the pump. 2e83, with coolant splashed about the overflow tank, just don't think it's related to the battery/power distributor block, not without 2e85.

Btw , if my SA came to me and said it IS the power distributor block/battery...BUT your pump had a dry run operation..... I'd politely ask to have the pump changed out, as that very well could compromise the pump and shorten its life.

[spool twice]

^^most helpful, I searched the code myself using our search function and this code and determining it's issue is hard to locate.

[tphaeng]

Thanks for the tips malave! You have been the most helpful. As for mileage I have ~75k on the Clock and I had just replace my battery about 68k. But all of this happened after my brother and I installed a jb4 and meth Without disconnecting te battery. I'm not sure if that relates to anything but I thought I'd throw it out there.

I will try to disconnect my battery today and let it sit for 20 min like u said and see if anything resets itself.

Do u happen to know where the connector is located at to check the voltage of the pump? Like if I go under the car and take the under shield off will it be right in my face? Or do I have to search for it?

Thanks again I appreciate it!

[David1]

Originally Posted by tphaeng

Thanks for the tips malave! You have been the most helpful. As for mileage I have ~75k on the Clock and I had just replace my battery about 68k. But all of this happened after my brother and I installed a jb4 and meth Without disconnecting te battery. I'm not sure if that relates to anything but I thought I'd throw it out there.

I will try to disconnect my battery today and let it sit for 20 min like u said and see if anything resets itself.

Do u happen to know where the connector is located at to check the voltage of the pump? Like if I go under the car and take the under shield off will it be right in my face? Or do I have to search for it?

Thanks again I appreciate it!

Waste of time, report back when the car is on a rollback.

[tphaeng]

I should also mention when my car over heatig the other night After I put distilled water and drove home I scanned the car with the bt tool. And there wasn't a code for the pump shutting off(2e83) or the rpm of the pump was slower than usual (2e81). The only code is the 2e83 ad that's it... I find that very Wierd.

[tphaeng]

Originally Posted by David1

Waste of time, report back when the car is on a rollback.

If your not going to say anything useful don't say anthing at all...KTHXBYE

[David1]

Originally Posted by tphaeng

I should also mention when my car over heatig the other night After I put distilled water and drove home I scanned the car with the bt tool. And there wasn't a code for the pump shutting off(2e83) or the rpm of the pump was slower than usual (2e81). The only code is the 2e83 ad that's it... I find that very Wierd.

Just coincidence

[Elliott@DetailAddict]

Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions

It's also worth noting any over-heat can potentially warp the head and/or blow the head gasket.

Definitely the best word of caution in here yet.

[muncie21]

I know it's an old post, but I'm interested to see if tphaeng eventually replaced the water pump.

I've been getting the 2e83 code (along with high water temps and associated dash warnings) with no other codes, so I too was hesitant about replacing the pump when I'm only seeing a power/communication code. However, I did buy the pump and t-stat just in case there's no apparent issue with the ground wire and/or power plug...which I suspect will look fine '

[Julian2485]

I'm having the same issue did op find a solution

[muncie21]

FWIW, my water pump started failing more frequently, so I ended up changing it along with the T-stat. No issues (with the WP or overheating ) since

[Julian2485]

I got a new pump I'm going to install and see if the overheating stops. I hate the fact that the pump in my car now is brand spanking new and its not working

[Julian2485]

Ok so I put in 2 brand new water pumps and I still get the overheating symbol. I I was getting the 2e83 before but I'm no longer getting that code. When changing the first new pump the bolt for the ground wire that goes to the engine block broke inside. So I lost that weird looking spacer. So I ordered a new bolt and place the ground wire in the hole above where the broken one is. Do you guys think Maybe the ground isn't good because I know longer have that weird looking spacer or because I put the ground in the hole above the original location ? If it were the thermostat not working wouldn't I get a thermostat code ?

[06BMW330I]

I know this is old but I have the same problem now. I broke off the ground and I unscrewed the bolt and reconnected it but not sure if it's good. Can I just ground it anywhere else? I'm getting code 2E84 and my pump won't turn on at all.
Pin #1 - 12V
Pin #2 - 12V
Pin #3 - 5.9-6.5V
Pin #4 - Ground

Thank you for any help at all.

Originally Posted by Julian2485

Ok so I put in 2 brand new water pumps and I still get the overheating symbol. I I was getting the 2e83 before but I'm no longer getting that code. When changing the first new pump the bolt for the ground wire that goes to the engine block broke inside. So I lost that weird looking spacer. So I ordered a new bolt and place the ground wire in the hole above where the broken one is. Do you guys think Maybe the ground isn't good because I know longer have that weird looking spacer or because I put the ground in the hole above the original location ? If it were the thermostat not working wouldn't I get a thermostat code ?