[RoarinForeign]

I'm trying to fit a set of 17x9.5 apex arc-8 on my e92. Does anyone have any input on how I can increase the camber? Are camber plates my only option? Does anyone have any experience with them? I'm currently running H&R coil overs but in my research I've come to realize on the forums you just need to increase camber to fit the 9.5j with a 255/40 but most of the information seems to be for rwd not awd. If anyone has any thoughts let me know. I know I could just buy a pair of 9j but I'd rather have a square set up. Thanks.

[Suvorovo]

No idea, but I've been reading a lot on AWD e90s for my 330xi. Be very careful in changing the camber on your AWD car, you can break your differential or transfer box. When you do adjust camber, make sure you have the same camber in the front and rear of the vehicle as the rolling diameter of the wheels will be different when putting them at an angle.

[Brian86]

Changing the camber isn't going to change the rolling diameter of the tire any more than the most trivial amount. Like... less than the depth of the tread.

Tires deform. The tire pressure carries the weight. Add as much camber as you want. It'll be fine.

[Runnin'Rich]

Dinan 'fix' camber plates could help

[Peter Morrin]

Front camber can be increased by moving the top of the front strut in or the bottom out. Camber plates allow the strut to move in. The Dinan fixed camber plates allow the strut top to move in, while retaining the stock mounting holes in the strut tower.

In the 328 CSL build thread Biginboca employed a number of techniques to increase camber. This was on a RWD, but the concept is the same.

I am going to try slotting the tops of my shock towers to allow the front struts to move in at the top. I think the limiting factor will be the springs hitting the inside sheetmetal of the shock towers, but it could hit something else on the knuckle or suspension first. It will be trial and error. Biginboca used both slotted shock towers and the Dinan fixed plates to achieve his camber.

I am looking into what the impact of extending the lower control arm would be on camber and other suspension settings. This would be a custom job as nobody makes an adjustable lower control arm to the best of my knowledge. If I remember rudimentry trig, a 10mm movement at the top or bottom of the strut should be worth about 1 degree of negative camber (this needs to have the vertical distance confirmed).