[JediWill89]

Hey all,
I have a 2011 BMW 328i Sedan N52 motor.
My car was running hot, going from a yellow warning to a red warning.
Did a scan and got the 2E83 error. I was advised to change the water pump and Tstat. I did that and the water pump came on after installation. I drove it a day later and it was running hot. Only to find out the pump still wasn't coming on "no stream in the reservoir". If I do the bleed test it works with no problem. The old one did the same thing.
I'm really at a loss here and really could use some help, please!

Thanks!

[H-10btr]

Originally Posted by JediWill89

Hey all,
I have a 2011 BMW 328i Sedan N52 motor.
My car was running hot, going from a yellow warning to a red warning.
Did a scan and got the 2E83 error. I was advised to change the water pump and Tstat. I did that and the water pump came on after installation. I drove it a day later and it was running hot. Only to find out the pump still wasn't coming on "no stream in the reservoir". If I do the bleed test it works with no problem. The old one did the same thing.
I'm really at a loss here and really could use some help, please!

Thanks!

Hey man I just tackled this code on my e90/N52 a couple weeks ago. Couple questions, is 2E83 the only code you have? Have you recently had your battery die or replaced? Did you use OE or OEM pump and thermostat and if so where were they purchased? Did you properly bleed the air from the coolant after replacement (with the heater on). I did it twice and still had some air.

My WP and Thermostat were replaced by the previous owner, he used Chinese parts. Replacing with new OEM solved my problem.

Other reasons are the battery in transport mode. I know of someone with a warped head that was causing air to enter the coolant system and throwing the code. Bad DME can cause this too.

[H-10btr]

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...php?p=29903780

[JediWill89]

Originally Posted by H-10btr

Hey man I just tackled this code on my e90/N52 a couple weeks ago. Couple questions, is 2E83 the only code you have? Have you recently had your battery die or replaced? Did you use OE or OEM pump and thermostat and if so where were they purchased? Did you properly bleed the air from the coolant after replacement (with the heater on). I did it twice and still had some air.

My WP and Thermostat were replaced by the previous owner, he used Chinese parts. Replacing with new OEM solved my problem.

Other reasons are the battery in transport mode. I know of someone with a warped head that was causing air to enter the coolant system and throwing the code. Bad DME can cause this too.

Hey, it was working great for 3 days and then today it decided to throw the code again and come up with the yellow warning. So I turned the car off and back on and the temp went from 220F to 175F and stayed there the whole time. So I'm not sure what is going on. I'm kinda at loss. I did look at the connection and I see that they did splice the wires and joined them back. I'm thinking of cleaning it up with some proper connections and redoing the ground wire going to the connector too. I'm also going to redo the bleeding procedure again by flushing the radiator and adding fluid back and yea...So that's what I'm planning on doing but other than that I'm at a complete lost lol.....

[NZE90]

What brand of water pump did you use?

[H-10btr]

Originally Posted by NZE90

What brand of water pump did you use?

This

[JediWill89]

I used Uroparts from rock auto