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Metal shavings in oil filter, Vanos/boost codes
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08-02-2023, 08:33 AM | #1 |
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Metal shavings in oil filter, Vanos/boost codes
Hey guys,
My car is at 120K miles, 2nd owner, and I'm getting the dreaded exhaust vanos and reduced power codes. I've done a ton of maintenance over the years but didn't see this coming. New actuators didn't fix the issue. Check engine light is on at cold start, it sometimes goes away, but comes back again. Idle is smooth-ish but clearly the car isn't happy. The ignition items have been upgraded or replaced when going FBO about 2 years ago. Last night I inspected the OFH and replaced the filter. I found tiny metal shavings in the used filter. Is this metal from the cam ledges? Everything is telling me cam ledges are grooved out. Only thing not replaced is the cam timing sensors but all the YouTube videos are saying that's a waste of time. I can't get to them anyways without removing the fan and bunch of other crap. Any advice or clues about the vanos issues on the N54 would be appreciated. I have owned the car for 8 years. I enjoy driving and working on it but a $2500+ repair is crazy. It would be the most I've ever spent fixing a vehicle. Thanks.
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335i, sport pkg, 3 pedals, Blacked out, LED markers, OZ Ultraleggera wheels, Firestone Indy 500s, x-pipe, vibrant 1792, PE mod
MHD stage 2+, BMS DPs, ARM charge pipe, Tial BOV, ARM FMIC, dual cone, CSF radiator, M3 control arms, sways, HAWK pads. https://www.strava.com/athletes/8309149 Follow me on Strava Last edited by Jaronbwall; 08-02-2023 at 08:41 AM.. |
08-02-2023, 09:04 AM | #2 |
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You prob should sell the car, wait till the injectors go bad then u gotta spend some real $$$
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08-02-2023, 09:18 AM | #3 |
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I went through cam bearing ledge issue and even DIY'ed it if you have questions, although mine was intake side. Disclaimer though, I am not a professional mechanic
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08-02-2023, 09:43 AM | #4 |
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0/10 how hard was it? In your opinion what is a realistic price for the repair? I've never worked inside an engine before.
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335i, sport pkg, 3 pedals, Blacked out, LED markers, OZ Ultraleggera wheels, Firestone Indy 500s, x-pipe, vibrant 1792, PE mod
MHD stage 2+, BMS DPs, ARM charge pipe, Tial BOV, ARM FMIC, dual cone, CSF radiator, M3 control arms, sways, HAWK pads. https://www.strava.com/athletes/8309149 Follow me on Strava |
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08-02-2023, 12:14 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
![]() It costed me around 850$ USD converted. The part itself is around 500$ new. You can get lucky if you find a used one in good condition. I also had to buy a timing lock toolkit which I included in the price along with renting those C clamp type special tools that align the trays together from a member since I couldn't find them anywhere to buy. That said, some other people online did the job without the C clamp type special tools and I believe their engine is OK but I was to worried to try without using those, just in case. |
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BRG_N54429.50 Jaronbwall298.00 |
08-02-2023, 12:53 PM | #6 | |
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Drives: Green '07 & Arctic '08 335i's
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Just need proper tools
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You can reference my thread here, complete with pictures of the job, to help you feel at ease about trying yourself. I would rate it 7/10 in terms of difficulty. You will need the cam timing jig and an angle torque wrench. All fasteners should be replaced, so prepare to spend $75 or so just on bolts. Sourcing the cam ledge was my biggest concern, as buying used is sort of a crap shoot. New are available for cheap in eBay, but are mostly counterfeits. The irony of my repair was that it was not the root cause of my 2A87 & 3100 pair, but the vanos solenoids. It was not for nothing though, I was able to replace the cam seals and future proof the motor a bit. I plan to replace the seals on my other N54, so the investment in tools was worth it for me. I have no idea what might be a fair price, sorry. I spent two days on it, just to be thorough, but I would estimate a pro could do it in 3-4 hours. Probably looking at $800 or so just in parts, if buying new. My old cam ledge looked pretty good, as you can see from the pictures, another confirmation that it was not the problem. TheMidnightNarwhal had the usual grooving on his. Motor has 175k miles on it, but if you can use it, I would rather it help another N54 than just sit around my garage. |
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08-02-2023, 02:35 PM | #7 | |
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08-02-2023, 03:01 PM | #8 | |
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TTY?
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Some of the videos I watched said you should replace the bolts, others did not. At one point during the process I lost track of which bolts I had finished, so I backed them out and started again. They were not really that tight, and it did not seem to be stressing the fasteners at all, the cam bolts, anyway. The cam gear bolts were another story, those are for sure TTY. They are, essentially the cam cap bolts, and I thought those get replaced, regardless? |
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Jaronbwall298.00 |
08-03-2023, 08:26 AM | #9 |
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Really appreciate the responses here. I'm a shade tree mechanic and have a good amount of tools other than the special ones needed for the job. Someone recommended an indy shop outside of Indianapolis so I decided to drop the car off for a quote. Literally parked beside a Lambo, Jag, and few other German cars. Not confident in the price but they know the issues and work on N54 BMWs. If the repair quote is insane I'll drive it home and fix it myself.
Thank you for providing those links! I'll dive into those and do my research ahead of time. I'll do the repair over a weekend like others did above.
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335i, sport pkg, 3 pedals, Blacked out, LED markers, OZ Ultraleggera wheels, Firestone Indy 500s, x-pipe, vibrant 1792, PE mod
MHD stage 2+, BMS DPs, ARM charge pipe, Tial BOV, ARM FMIC, dual cone, CSF radiator, M3 control arms, sways, HAWK pads. https://www.strava.com/athletes/8309149 Follow me on Strava Last edited by Jaronbwall; 08-03-2023 at 08:55 AM.. |
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