[Awats93]

Okay guys, I'm new here. I'm having trouble with my n54 (2010 335i) e90.
I have:
1.JB4 tune
2.BMS DCI
3.phoenix racing chargepipe. (No BOV)
When I put the tune on, the car ran fine for a week or two. For about 3 weeks now my car will stutter and give the "reduced engine power" on my idrive. I took it to the BMW dealership and they said it was just some crimped vacuum hose that they fixed. It still happens though. When I first get in the car it runs fine, when I engage map 2 or 5 (only ones I run) and floor it, it builds a lot of boost but then starts to stutter and make a noise up front.. I've checked my whole charging system and there are no leaks. What do y'all think?

[Riley1524]

Originally Posted by Awats93

Okay guys, I'm new here. I'm having trouble with my n54 (2010 335i) e90.
I have:
1.JB4 tune
2.BMS DCI
3.phoenix racing chargepipe. (No BOV)
When I put the tune on, the car ran fine for a week or two. For about 3 weeks now my car will stutter and give the "reduced engine power" on my idrive. I took it to the BMW dealership and they said it was just some crimped vacuum hose that they fixed. It still happens though. When I first get in the car it runs fine, when I engage map 2 or 5 (only ones I run) and floor it, it builds a lot of boost but then starts to stutter and make a noise up front.. I've checked my whole charging system and there are no leaks. What do y'all think?

You're in the wrong place... This is the N/A section. You need to post this in the N54 section. Good luck

[Needbmwpartzz]

I vote once you have spark plugs/coils addressed... run some injector cleaner through then clean air filter/maf sensor/change oil.
And if that doesn't fix your wagon I would also add cleaning/and or replace the vanos solenoids.
GL op.

[sonofsun]

***bumping this thread***
My valve cover needed replacement because of the broken vacuum line to the oil separator cyclone which is built into the valve cover. I am not sure if this is what lead to positive pressure build up in the valve cover and the subsequent leaking out of my gaskets.

I also decided to replace the eccentric shaft sensor since I had taken the valve cover off anyways. The reason I did this is because I used a Foxwell NT510 to look at the live graphs of the commanded angle for the shaft and the feedback. There was a difference in both values but the rate of increase or decrease would match most of the time except few time the curves will be offset. Also the vacuum line to the intake was gunked up a bit and I was able to blow into it with my mouth and clear the line.

However after replacing the valve cover gasket and the eccentric shaft sensor I still see the difference in these values and occasional sputtering when the engine is hot. I don't see this issue when the engine is cold. Now I am not sure what is causing this sputtering. I am getting paranoid about whether this could be camshaft bearing ledge issue or something else. Next I am gonna clean and swap the Vanos solenoids and potentially clean the vanos strainers on the sides if I am able to get to them.

I hate to go about replacing parts on a trial and error basis. But I was wondering if anybody could suggest what other tests that I may be able to do with the NT510 when the engine is running. The tricky part is there is no code whatsoever now or never before the valve cover replacement so I am at a loss here.

I tried switching off individual cylinders for test but the shaking was tremendous and didn't look anywhere closer to the sputtering issues.

I did a graph of the mass air flow, intake pressure against throttle position and I didn't find anything out of the ordinary.

[mainetane94704]

Need help!!!

I have a 2011 328i and when I get to around 35 mph the engine starts to stutter. As I accelerate to higher speeds it continues to do the same until I hit speeds of about 60mph.

Is this a coil pack/spark plug issue?

Thanks for the help

[W37V]

Originally Posted by mainetane94704

Need help!!!

I have a 2011 328i and when I get to around 35 mph the engine starts to stutter. As I accelerate to higher speeds it continues to do the same until I hit speeds of about 60mph.

Is this a coil pack/spark plug issue?

Thanks for the help

What's the mileage on your car?
Did you scan for codes?
When was the last time you changed spark plugs?

BMW recommended changing plugs at 100k miles. However, I am firm believer that they should be at around 50-60k for the best performance. Get BMW or OE plugs (NGK) only, as other might not give best performance.

Also, coils do tend to go bad. You can swap one that is causing misfire. If you have extra $$ to throw, then replace them all. I think bmw just changed their OE from Bosch to Denso. Either works fine.

[luts2kking]

Fix found from this youtube link..

Teilenummer Exenterwelle 11 37 7 578 543
Part number eccentric shaft 11 37 7 578 543

Dani Ab
Dani Ab
6 months ago (edited)
So to all who get stuck.
I am a master mechanic and specialize in BMW. I am very familiar with the N46 engine. Before approx. Had a 318i E90 N46 in hand for 10 months. Has the same problem as in the video. With throttle shocks there was always a dropout there at around 2000 revolutions.

Swap:
Timing chain set> no success
All 16 valves and valve stem seals> no success
Cylinder head gasket> no success
Compression tested all 4 cylinders 11 bar
Pressure loss test> no success
All spark plugs and ignition coils changed> no success
All plugs checked and cables from control unit to sensors actuators> no success.

Have control unit checked everything ok> no success

Intake bridge and crankshaft ventilation ok> no success
Crankshaft sensor ok> no success
Camshaft sensor ok
The fuel pump in the tank changed> unsuccessful

Camshafts checked OK
Camshaft adjuster OK
Motor eccentric shaft OK
Sensor eccentric shaft Checked OK

If you disconnect the plug of the sensor for the eccentric shaft, the car runs normally> since the car is running in emergency mode.

solution
> Exenter shaft exchanged as well as intermediate lever and lo and behold the car is running normally again. Problem found

[gor134]

I had this same exact issue. Changing my spark plugs solved it.

[petrvales22]

Hi, I have problem with acceleration stutter with N46B20B engine. But it happen only when the engine is cold. No missfiring, no codes. Most things on engine are new. I did piston rings, valve seals etc. Most sensors OEM. Feels like DTC but I already solved it and traction light do not light on when this happen. When I try rev from idle to 2,5k (only for testing) , it hardly goes up and when go back down there is big bounce on rpm and then go back to almost perfect idle. After 3-5 minutes of driving it dissapears. Only when starting warm, rpms bouncing around 50 for about 30 secs, then normal.

Does anyone have similar issue?