[Paynter]

Hi everyone! Longtime lurker, first time poster.

I recently picked up a 2011 335xi N55 car.

I’ll give a bit of history on it;

It was for sale at a car lot my friend works at. They had sold the car and then was returned because the car would randomly stall out and wouldn’t start back up for a while.

The car no will pretty much just only crank now with the occasional time after disconnecting the battery I can get it to flash up for a couple seconds.

When it does start up, the engine sounds very very healthy. The tachometer seems to jump like a car that has a bad alternator and the battery is dead on the rare occasion I can get it to run for a second or two (literally less then 5 seconds).

The codes I have are:

2E0F
32E3
27DC
2A61
2C70
371A

It seems like injectors etc aren’t trying to even fire at all. Spins over very free.

I do have a new AGM battery installed as well.

I have checked the battery cable leads down by the rear wheel well, found the thinner wire that comes out of the distribution panel on top of the battery and goes down through the wheel well was corroded a bit. That has been repaired.

On the power distribution panel, I have 12V at all points. At the front of the car where the 3 fuses and the large 50amp fuse is, they all have 12v, as well as the two leads from the batter that are inside that compartment that go through the wall into the bay.

If I clear the codes, they come back on the second I try and start the car.

I was thinking maybe the valvetronic motor/eccentric shaft sensor, but I can’t see it throwing the other codes.

I’m not sure where to go from here, any help would be greatly appreciated!

[Paynter]

Anyone have any thoughts?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Paynter

... 2011 335xi N55... the car would randomly stall out and wouldn’t start back up for a while. The car will pretty much just only crank now with the occasional time after disconnecting the battery I can get it to flash up for a couple seconds. When it does start up, the engine sounds very very healthy. The tachometer seems to jump like a car that has a bad alternator and the battery is dead on the rare occasion I can get it to run for a second or two (literally less then 5 seconds). The codes I have are:
2E0F, 32E3, 27DC, 2A61, 2C70, 371A
If I clear the codes, they come back on the second I try and start the car...

I'm just beginning to evaluate your reported Fault Codes, & will post back with suggested "Next Steps". The BMW Fault Code Lookup Definitions & Fault Info Links for each are listed below. Please indicate:
1) Last-7 Characters of VIN;
2) Make/Model of Scan Tool or diagnostic software: INPA/ISTA, etc.

2E0F | Valvetronic system: deactivated, adjustment fault too frequent | mevd174k | Engine electronics
32E3 | EWS-DME interface Hardware fault | MEVD174K | Engine electronics
27DC | Accelerator pedal module, pedal-travel sensor 2, electrical: Short circuit to ground | MEVD174K | Engine electronics
2A61 | Ignition relay and injectors, supply voltage, fuel injection: Line disconnection | MEVD174K | Engine electronics
2C70 | Boost pressure sensor, electrical: Short circuit to ground | MEVD174K | Engine electronics
371A | Valvetronic, supply voltage: Line disconnection | MEVD174K | Engine electronics

https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...kANAAxADAANAA=
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...kANQAzADAANAA=
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...YANwAyADAANAA=
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...kAMgA2ADAANAA=
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...IANAA4ADAANAA=
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...cANAA5ADAANAA=

George

[Paynter]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

I'm just beginning to evaluate your reported Fault Codes, & will post back with suggested "Next Steps". The BMW Fault Code Lookup Definitions & Fault Info Links for each are listed below. Please indicate:
1) Last-7 Characters of VIN;
2) Make/Model of Scan Tool or diagnostic software: INPA/ISTA, etc.

2E0F | Valvetronic system: deactivated, adjustment fault too frequent | mevd174k | Engine electronics
32E3 | EWS-DME interface Hardware fault | MEVD174K | Engine electronics
27DC | Accelerator pedal module, pedal-travel sensor 2, electrical: Short circuit to ground | MEVD174K | Engine electronics
2A61 | Ignition relay and injectors, supply voltage, fuel injection: Line disconnection | MEVD174K | Engine electronics
2C70 | Boost pressure sensor, electrical: Short circuit to ground | MEVD174K | Engine electronics
371A | Valvetronic, supply voltage: Line disconnection | MEVD174K | Engine electronics

https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...kANAAxADAANAA=
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...kANQAzADAANAA=
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...YANwAyADAANAA=
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...kAMgA2ADAANAA=
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...IANAA4ADAANAA=
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...cANAA5ADAANAA=

George

Hi George,

The last 7 of the VIN is A919297

I’m using a Snap-On Apollo D9

[Paynter]

Anyone have any idea? To me it seems like an electrical issue. I really thought I had it when I saw how bad that rear battery was where it came into the car.

I just don’t want to start ripping apart the top end to get to the valvetronic motor (and possible eccentric shaft) if it’s just an electrical issue.

Just lost at the moment on it

[E30M CW]

I don't remember the codes I was getting when I had a similar condition with my car, but one of them was something about not being able to communicate with the throttle pedal. Just reading the codes you're getting, I wonder if it might be the problem I had. Check the DME in the engine bay to see if you have corrosion on the pins. Apparently moisture builds up in the box despite the sealing and with the way it's mounted moisture can accumulate on the pins. The corrosion then prevented the DME from receiving signals like the throttle pedal that are needed to start.

[Paynter]

Originally Posted by E30M CW

I don't remember the codes I was getting when I had a similar condition with my car, but one of them was something about not being able to communicate with the throttle pedal. Just reading the codes you're getting, I wonder if it might be the problem I had. Check the DME in the engine bay to see if you have corrosion on the pins. Apparently moisture builds up in the box despite the sealing and with the way it's mounted moisture can accumulate on the pins. The corrosion then prevented the DME from receiving signals like the throttle pedal that are needed to start.

Unfortunately my DME is under the intake manifold on the N55 instead of the earlier location in the cowel like in my 135i. I’m so lost on this one haha

[Paynter]

Anyone have any input? Don’t know if I should be ripping out wiring, the valvetronic motor, or maybe the DME is just cooked :/