[dude04]

UPDATE 19/03/2015
after some research, digging, and measuring i can share the following with you:
1. the pinion nut is 64.2mm.
2. an ideal tool for this is a socket (as i suggest below, if you can find them) or even better a slugging spanner. a spanner is better as it allows you access to the spline, whereas a socket doesn't. i bought a slugging spanner from my local tools shop, it was, and needs to be, 12 point.
3. my diff builder was able to find an appropriate 'tool' to fit onto the spline. the spline is 27.6mm in diameter with 34 spline. by chance, we were able to use gears (manual gearbox gears) from a vw polo. my diff builder says any vw should work. he welded a bar onto said gear and will use to hold the spline in place while turning the slugging spanner to break the pinion nut

********************************
hi all,

can anybody help me identify what size socket i will need to remove my pinion nut?

i'm not exactly sure how i should be measuring it, but as you can see in the picture, i measured peak-to-peak in millimeters

your assistance appreciated

thanks

[GMWNashville]

There is a special tool used to tighten/loosen that nut and another to hold the input shaft itself

[dude04]

sounds great
do you know where it can be bought?

[MFactory]

It's not a part that BMW offers unfortunately, and can only be purchased from the BMW service department via the service manager.

[serotoninsteve]

Perhaps a big Oilfilter socket fits or can be modified to fit!?
How do all the other people do it who purchase the ring'n pinion option?
Anyone?

[dude04]

for your information i think i've found the right socket
i don't know the exact size, i need to measure parallel flat to parallel flat (whereas i've measured peak to peak in my original photo)

nevertheless it should be one of these:


my diff builder intends on boring-out the socket and welding a bar to the outside of it. this way he can hold the spline and turn the nut.

[serotoninsteve]

Thanks,

sounds good.

Keep us updated once you have the right measure! 👍

[dude04]

updated first post with findings for anybody undertaking this job! good luck

[serotoninsteve]

Great info!

By sludging spanner do you mean a simple 12 point ring spanner?
Did you use a 65mm one?

Thanks

[JamesM3M5]

Here is the TIS with tool numbers. You will have to call the dealer parts department to order them. This includes the large 12-point socket, the spline holding socket, and the breaker bar.

You MUST make sure you properly retighten the large 12-point nut. The input bearing preload is set by that nut, and improper preload WILL lead to noise or premature bearing failure.

[JamesM3M5]

33 5 050 = 83 30 0 495 552
33 5 060 = 83 30 0 495 553
33 5 070 = 83 30 0 495 554

[serotoninsteve]

Perfect James!

Thanks

[Bavarian Tech]

You'll need a 3/4 LONG breaker bar if your going to use the BMW input shaft socket

[amr_e90]

I got one I can sell u lmk?

[jpsanfor]

Originally Posted by amr_e90

I got one I can sell u lmk?

Still available by chance? Or does anyone have any idea what size the nut ends up being?

[jjjccc]

Is this same size tool needed for 335i 2014 N55 engine?

[srey]

Originally Posted by jjjccc

Is this same size tool needed for 335i 2014 N55 engine?

Possibly. You should probably try the F30 forum, though.

[jjjccc]

Originally Posted by srey

Possibly. You should probably try the F30 forum, though.

this in only thread i found on this so can anyone tell me will it fit f30?

[Schneelleopard]

Wanted to place an update here. Since this thread was created several aftermarket alternatives to the BMW tool have become available through Amazon and ebay. They look like the image attached. Searching for BMW e90 differential pinion tool will turn up results in the $100 cost category.

I have completed this repair on my 2007 335i with the tool and I wanted to add some information for those who may read this thread in the future.

Both nuts are red locktite secured. To remove them you will need to heat them up very hot with a heat gun. Grease will shoot out of the seal so wear eye protection.

You will need a cheater bar for leverage. A 1 inch black iron pipe from home depot works well.

The first nut is turned CLOCKWISE that's counter intuitive yes I know. According to TIS failure to do so will destroy the Differential!

After removal, pry off the grease seal and grease cap using a cold chisel and a hammer. These parts must be replaced. You cannot do this job unless you purchase the grease seal, grease cap and suggested nut in addition to the differential pinion seal. I bought a kit made by Febest? it was very inexpensive. Available on Amazon for $30. Pinion Oil Seal Rear Differential Kit Febest SET-008 Oem 31507609535


After that you will be faced with the large funny looking nut with all the splines. It has to go back the same way it came off according to TIS. Take a steel pin punch and strike it hard with a hammer one hard time. This will put a small notch where the big funny nut and the pinion spindle meet. This will allow you to put it back the same way it came off.

you use two breaker bars to remove the large nut. One holds the shaft by the splines the other turns the big nut COUNTER CLOCKWISE. again. Before you start heat it up with a heat gun until oil starts to leak out and it stinks. You must use a cheater part to break it loose. Don't give up.

Clockwise and Counter Clockwise is as if you were facing away from the engine.

After you remove that large nut clean all the splines off that have the old locktite in there. remove all grease residue with a pick tool and a wire brush from everything.

Now you have to remove that seal. That seal is in there VERY tight. You may sacrifice a typical seal puller in removing it. There are alternatives. What I did was used a small pry bar and Karate Kicked it. The dynamic force popped it out. This method will do some damage the cast iron housing. I repaired it with coarse sandpaper and used some RTV silicone on the new seal lip, a very light coat.

More professional ways to remove this seal involve drilling pilot holes around the seal, and driving in sheet metal screws. Or even hardened wood screws which will push the seal out. Any marks will not be on the sealing surface this way. However, you may drive the screws into the bearing so it may be more prudent to drive in those screws 1/4 of an inch and pull the seal out using a basic bondo slide hammer. You could also use vice grips clamped onto the screws.

Yet another way is by using the N54 front main seal remover tool. The $50 ebay or amazon kit may allow you to remove the seal in the most professional of ways. I didn't try it.

I have not yet set the preload on the bearing. I will make a supplemental post after I do.