[greenberet123]

Getting 2A00, so I disconnected the secondary air pump hose which goes to the valve and did a cold start, but no air coming out of the pump. I can't tell from the sound whether it's working or not, so decided to remove it.

Looks like I need to provide a 12V DC source to test it. I don't have one. All I have are 1) The 12V charging port inside the car, and 2) A 12V 1000A battery that I use to jump-start. Would any of these be ok to test the air pump? I'm guessing 1000A is too much for the air pump, but will it only draw as much current as it needs? Thanks!

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by greenberet123

Getting 2A00, so I disconnected the secondary air pump hose which goes to the valve and did a cold start, but no air coming out of the pump. I can't tell from the sound whether it's working or not, so decided to remove it.
Looks like I need to provide a 12V DC source to test it. I don't have one. All I have are 1) The 12V charging port inside the car, and 2) A 12V 1000A battery that I use to jump-start. Would any of these be ok to test the air pump? I'm guessing 1000A is too much for the air pump, but will it only draw as much current as it needs? [Yes, that's what "Resistors" are for. To test for yourself, get SMALLEST 12V bulb you can find, like a 4W low voltage bulb, and use Patch Cables/ Alligator clips to connect it to that battery. Bulb will light & NOT burn out.]

I don't have an N51 with Air Pump, but based upon the BMW Fault Code Lookup Fault Information page linked below, 2A00 does NOT suggest something wrong with the PUMP, but rather the passage to the Valve in Bank 1 (similar supply to Bank 2 and separate code for condition in Bank 2). It appears from Bentley that the Hex-code is the SAME for each, but the P-code is P0491 for Bank 1, and P0492 for Bank 2.
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...QANQAxADAANAA=

There are about 9 different P-codes for Secondary Air Injection Faults, so make SURE you have read ALL codes. A simple P-code reader may be better than a Hex-code Scan Tool for this, UNLESS the Tool provides the CORRECT Fault Definition for YOUR MSV80 DME. A "2A00" code can mean issue with Flow to (1) Bank 1, (2) Bank 2, (3) BOTH Banks (P140A).

You do NOT indicate if you have the proper wiring diagram for Secondary Air Pump on your vehicle. I'll attach that wiring diagram from ISTA for 2008 328i E93 N51 to next post. Since the Connector has ONLY TWO wires, and Brown (X1124/1) is always Chassis Ground on E9x Models, it's NOT EASY to screw up if mind is engaged.
George

[gbalthrop]

ScreenPrint of ISTA SSP wiring diagram for Secondary Air Pump & X1124 Connector View, 2008 N51, per prior post.
George

[greenberet123]

Thanks! Looked at the P code and its P140A, so looks like both banks? I dont understand why air doesn't come out of the pump. I will try again tomorrow.

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

I don't have an N51 with Air Pump, but based upon the BMW Fault Code Lookup Fault Information page linked below, 2A00 does NOT suggest something wrong with the PUMP, but rather the passage to the Valve in Bank 1 (similar supply to Bank 2 and separate code for condition in Bank 2). It appears from Bentley that the Hex-code is the SAME for each, but the P-code is P0491 for Bank 1, and P0492 for Bank 2.
https://bmwfault.codes/XMLDiagView?d...QANQAxADAANAA=

There are about 9 different P-codes for Secondary Air Injection Faults, so make SURE you have read ALL codes. A simple P-code reader may be better than a Hex-code Scan Tool for this, UNLESS the Tool provides the CORRECT Fault Definition for YOUR MSV80 DME. A "2A00" code can mean issue with Flow to (1) Bank 1, (2) Bank 2, (3) BOTH Banks (P140A).

You do NOT indicate if you have the proper wiring diagram for Secondary Air Pump on your vehicle. I'll attach that wiring diagram from ISTA for 2008 328i E93 N51 to next post. Since the Connector has ONLY TWO wires, and Brown (X1124/1) is always Chassis Ground on E9x Models, it's NOT EASY to screw up if mind is engaged.
George

[greenberet123]

Absolutely no air coming from the air pump, looks dead. Will open and try to start it separately

[mainbearing]

Check that the connector to the air pump has voltage coming from Pin 6 of the pump relay. The brown wire to X166 I suppose goes to ground. Make sure the ground is good too.

I keep a couple of old 12v transformers around for testing purposes. There are plenty of those from many kinds of devices these days.

If there is voltage at the connector to the pump, then maybe the motor is bad:

[greenberet123]

Can I use wire clips that connect to the car's inside 12V cigar lighter? Will that work as a power source to test the air pump without needing a transformer?

Originally Posted by mainbearing

Check that the connector to the air pump has voltage coming from Pin 6 of the pump relay. The brown wire to X166 I suppose goes to ground. Make sure the ground is good too.

I keep a couple of old 12v transformers around for testing purposes. There are plenty of those from many kinds of devices these days.

If there is voltage at the connector to the pump, then maybe the motor is bad:

[mainbearing]

I have a lighter power plug I rigged with terminals to allow me to easily tap 12v from the socket, but I have not used it on anything yet.

Therefore yes you can use the light power plug, provided that the motor does not draw more than 10 amps (or something like that), otherwise the fuse will blow. But that is a safety feature, better than blowing the battery fuse.

[lowrydr310]

There's a command in INPA to activate the secondary air pump. I did this when helping a friend diagnose the exact same code. That's much easier than trying to rig up a test power source.

Unfortunately in my friend's case the air pump worked fine and it was the valve that failed and wasn't opening properly.

[AFA1464]

Where in inpa is the setting to activate the pump?
Thanks

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by AndyA1464

Where in inpa is the setting to activate the pump? Thanks

The SLS or Secondary Air (Luft) Pump is controlled by the DME, so you connect to DME Module & go to F6 Activations.
The Menu Path/Sequence is: INPA > DME (MSV80) > F6 Activations > F3 SLS or Secondary Air/Luft System Pump.
If the DME Output circuit and Pump are working correctly, the pump should run when F1 Pump ON is selected.
Menu may DIFFER for other DME Variant/SGBD; Attached ScreenPrints are for MSV80 DME on 3/2007 328xi, US.
Pump found on N51 (SULEV) engine. Mine is N52, so I have no SLS Pump to test operation.
George

[marvinstockman]

Jumper cables attached to your battery, with adapter leads should work fine.

[AFA1464]

Thanks for the help. I tried starting the pump with inpa, it did not start. You could hear the relay click but again would not start. My e90 is an 11/2006 build date 07 n51, the fuse was good (fuse 68 in the glove compartment ) but the relay in the hood fuse box (orange color) was bad. I replaced the relay and now the pump works. FYI for anyone with similar situation: Prior to this my issue was that the fuse was good (#68 in glove compartment) and so I thought the relay was good as well because I heard the click sound until I did a bench test. I tried directly adding power to the pump and it would start so I knew it wasn’t a pump issue. There is another forum that says the blue relay in the hood fuse box is for the secondary air pump for my similar build date; that is incorrect. I traced the air pump connector cables to the correct relay (orange color). For anyone trying to pass emissions and the secondary air pump monitor is not saying ready; the way I bypassed it prior to fixing my issue was by splicing the air pump cables and connecting alligator connectors, connected from the pump positive and ground to the positive and negative connections on the hood (where you jump start) for a direct current to the air pump to simulate normal operation for 2 minutes during car startup all while making sure that check engine light (CEL) were cleared prior. This allowed for secondary air monitor to be ready. (Start the pump seconds before you start the car and let run for at least 90+ seconds while the car is on).

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by AndyA1464

... My e90 is an 11/2006 build date 07 n51, [Unfortunately, at post #13 we learn for 1st time what model the issue relates to -- only clue before was your "Drives E93" label and you did NOT correct me when I posted ISTA diagram for 2008 E93 based on your prior posts to this forum. Be aware that there are a LOT of different fuse, wiring & relay configurations, depending upon the build date, and the fuse numbering in ISTA ScreenPrint I attached to Post #3 is correct for 2008 & later models, but NOT for 2007 model.] the fuse was good (fuse 68 in the glove compartment ) but the relay in the hood fuse box (orange color) was bad. [Please clarify what relay and it's location (photo if possible?) per discussion below] I replaced the relay and now the pump works...

I'm glad you got your pump to run. I appreciate that fact that you're taking the time to try to help others with similar issue in future. I thank you for the tips on HOW to get the pump to run long enough to prevent warning light and pass Emissions Inspection, as long as you don't shut engine off after hot-wiring the pump for ~ 2 minutes.

However, I'm confused about this "Orange Relay". ISTA shows the Secondary Air Pump Relay to be located on the bottom-right of the JB Fuse Panel, below the Glovebox, on 2007 Model, but in E-box on 2008 & LATER models. For YOUR 11/2006 build N51, that's the interior Fuse Panel, and NOT in the E-box under the hood where the DME is located.

Attached to NEXT Post are ISTA ScreenPrints for 11/2006 build 328i N51 showing:
(1) Location of Air Pump Relay, K6304, on bottom-right of JB Fuse Panel;
(2) Location of VVT Relay, K6319, in E-box under hood;
(3) Location of K6300 DME Relay, & K6327 Fuel Injector Relays, in E-box.

FIRST attachment is 2008 & Later Pump Relay location according to ISTA. If that is WRONG, please advise, and provide Last-7 of VIN so I can make sure I am correctly reporting what ISTA shows for YOUR vehicle.

Unfortunately, the ISTA Location Diagrams are NOT color-coded for relay colors. IF the ISTA ScreenPrints attached are CORRECT for your vehicle, then WHATEVER Orange Relay in the E-box was changed, that should have had NO effect upon Secondary Air Pump operation. Fuse F06 which provides B+ to Pump Relay is powered only when K6300 DME Relay is Active. However, that relay ALSO powers Fuses F01 through F04, and if they were NOT powered, the engine would NOT start.

So while your explanation of how to Hotwire the pump to get engine started without setting fault code & SES light is quite helpful to "beat the system", the replacement of the "Orange Relay" in the E-box raises some questions, at least for a pedantic guy like me obsessed with DETAILS.

The most logical explanation would appear to be that ISTA incorrectly shows the Pump Relay location, and that the FIRST diagram attached to Next Post is actually the configuration in YOUR vehicle.

If you find the time to clarify any of the above, please do. If ISTA is just WRONG about the location of the relay, or I am misunderstanding your post, please advise.
George

[gbalthrop]

Attached are ISTA ScreenPrints of Relay locations as discussed in prior post.
First Attachment is what ISTA shows for Air Pump Relay in 2008 & LATER models, while other 3 are build <9/2007.
George

[AFA1464]

In the attached picture. The orange or salmon red relay (circled yellow) is the one that I replaced that was bad and eventually the one that starts the secondary air pump on my 11/2006 build e90 2007. I did a bench test on it and appeared to be bad. Originally I had replaced the blue one (circled red) thinking that was the relay that powered the pump but that’s incorrect. Hope the picture helps!

[maxcsr]

Originally Posted by AFA1464

Thanks for the help. I tried starting the pump with inpa, it did not start. You could hear the relay click but again would not start. My e90 is an 11/2006 build date 07 n51, the fuse was good (fuse 68 in the glove compartment ) but the relay in the hood fuse box (orange color) was bad. I replaced the relay and now the pump works. FYI for anyone with similar situation: Prior to this my issue was that the fuse was good (#68 in glove compartment) and so I thought the relay was good as well because I heard the click sound until I did a bench test. I tried directly adding power to the pump and it would start so I knew it wasn’t a pump issue. There is another forum that says the blue relay in the hood fuse box is for the secondary air pump for my similar build date; that is incorrect. I traced the air pump connector cables to the correct relay (orange color). For anyone trying to pass emissions and the secondary air pump monitor is not saying ready; the way I bypassed it prior to fixing my issue was by splicing the air pump cables and connecting alligator connectors, connected from the pump positive and ground to the positive and negative connections on the hood (where you jump start) for a direct current to the air pump to simulate normal operation for 2 minutes during car startup all while making sure that check engine light (CEL) were cleared prior. This allowed for secondary air monitor to be ready. (Start the pump seconds before you start the car and let run for at least 90+ seconds while the car is on).

Please please I need your help to pass my NYS Inspection.
Can you please explain exactly how to bypass that issue without fixing the pump?
My pump turns on when its outside the car. But when its connected in car it doesn't turn on.
I tried to understand your steps on how to bypass that so I can get Air monitor ready. Please explain again i must pass inspection in less than 10 days.

Thanks so much

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by maxcsr

... Can you please explain exactly how to bypass that issue without fixing the pump? My pump turns on when its outside the car. But when its connected in car it doesn't turn on...

Please see my reply YESTERDAY to your previous thread, & let me know if you have questions. Your pump is FINE, per testing "outside the car" (NOT sure why it was necessary to remove pump to test -- could have simply applied voltage to pump 'in situ').
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=17

The pump is supposed to run ONLY for a moment at cold start. You do NOT want to "bypass" anything. You want to Diagnose the issue & FIX the electrical issue (perhaps something as simple as a cut/broken wire or loose/corroded connector. If you have specific questions after reading my post LINKED above, please ask. All you need is a $10 multimeter.
George