[fdriller9]

So awhile back I did the SWS-8 upgrade. However, being a young adult, I wanted more bass. The SWS-8s didn't cut it and I tried to push too much out of them and ending up blowing one completely and damage a voil coil on the other one, with a JL 500/1.

I'm on winter break and was bored so I decided to rip apart the completely blown woofer.

I called Earthquake about getting them reconed but they wanted 80 per woofer. Is there any calibration that needs to be done for reconing? I would assume you just have to glue the coil to the cone, the spider to the bracket, the cone to the spider and bracket and that's it?

Anyway here are the results:

[IMG]http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww146/*********/SWS-8s/100_1979.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww146/*********/SWS-8s/100_1980.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww146/*********/SWS-8s/100_1981.jpg[/IMG]
That coil is pretty burnt!
[IMG]http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww146/*********/SWS-8s/100_1982.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww146/*********/SWS-8s/100_1983.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww146/*********/SWS-8s/100_1984.jpg[/IMG]

[808MGuy]

The sounds like a pretty standard cost for reconing. The higher end woofers like the JL W7s and DDs cost a lot more than that to recone. I'm not sure what the exact process is because I know DD will send local dealers recone kits and allow the dealers to do the recone but I'm sure there must be some kind of training involved. Keep in mind that the W7s and DD woofers are marketed as field servicable woofers so it may be built in a way which allows for easier servicing. Something like the SWS might not be as easy to disassemble and reassemble without damaging certain parts of the woofer.

[bmw325i]

Thats nothing you should of seen the 12 inch Type S's I put 1400 watts too the VC's where pitch black and melted wires everywhere. Reconing speakers, and subwoofers isn't very hard im sure you can find plenty of videos on youtube of how to do it. But they don't sell reconing kits for sws 8's I don't know if you can get earthquake to sell you a kit. If the sws's weren't enough for you though I wouldn't reccomend repairing them anyways I'd suggest a trunk sub and replace the sws's with some midbass drivers.

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by bmw325i

Thats nothing you should of seen the 12 inch Type S's I put 1400 watts too the VC's where pitch black and melted wires everywhere. Reconing speakers, and subwoofers isn't very hard im sure you can find plenty of videos on youtube of how to do it. But they don't sell reconing kits for sws 8's I don't know if you can get earthquake to sell you a kit. If the sws's weren't enough for you though I wouldn't reccomend repairing them anyways I'd suggest a trunk sub and replace the sws's with some midbass drivers.

Yea they told me I have to send it in

I currently have a Type-R sealed in a .9 cu ft enclosure powered by the same JL 500/1 that blew my SWs-8s. I also have my stock L7 woofers amped with a M500 pushing about 75W @ 8ohms.....yea I know. But that's the only safe operation I could setup with the M500. It was either 8ohms or 4 ohms @ 250W....I think that's too much power.

I want to swap the M500 for a F300 so I can run them at 150W @4ohms and in stereo....instead of mono.

Also the underseats are bandpassed between 65Hz and 150Hz. Trunk sub low passed at 65Hz with a slope of 12db.

It's getting there. I feel like it never ends lol.

[Rob G]

I am replacing my under seats with Jehnret woofers. I have been trying to decide the power level (75 or 150 wrms) to give them. The issue is the JL XD amps allow either low or high pass, not the bandpass that the mid bass drivers need. I was thinking that the mechanical crossover of the enclosure might roll off the bottom at 40 hz. I'd be happy with that.

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by Rob G

I am replacing my under seats with Jehnret woofers. I have been trying to decide the power level (75 or 150 wrms) to give them. The issue is the JL XD amps allow either low or high pass, not the bandpass that the mid bass drivers need. I was thinking that the mechanical crossover of the enclosure might roll off the bottom at 40 hz. I'd be happy with that.

Which woofers? 8"? XE or XR?

I think 150w would be fine for either.

The stock L7 amp actively low passes the underseat woofers somewhere between 150Hz and 200Hz. So you can use the high pass on your amp to bandpass them.

That's kinda what I'm doing but I have my LOC going to a JL 500/1 which is low passed at 65Hz (for trunk sub). But the output RCAs have some filters as well so I high passed them at 65hz and low passed on the M500 I'm using to run the underseats at 170Hz.

You got me thinking.....I'm going to try turning off the filter on my output RCAs on my JL 500/1.

[Sirrus]

Originally Posted by *********

It was either 8ohms or 4 ohms @ 250W....I think that's too much power.

Why couldn't you just turn the gain down? Maybe I'm not understanding your options.

[fdriller9]

I could but the way my system is setup....I could easily blow the stock woofers.

I sometimes use the bass adjustment in my headunit to adjust the low end. This affects both my trunk sub and my underseat woofers. I have both turned up pretty much where I want them. The sub actually has alot more to go but then the sub overpowers the rest of the system.

So if I had the underseats at 250w @ 4ohms, I could easily mess them up by turn up the bass adjustment.

IDK. I just don't want to blow them because they are expensive to replace. Unless of course you find a used set but when you need something, it's not always available.

[VP Electricity]

Never take power or gain advice from a guy with fried voice coils.

Congrats. Not seen one of these toast before. Aluminum cone actually helps duct heat away.

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

Never take power or gain advice from a guy with fried voice coils.

Congrats. Not seen one of these toast before. Aluminum cone actually helps duct heat away.

Are you sure about that (aluminum)? It feels like plastic to me. Maybe I'm not referring to the cone. I'm talking about the piece in between the foam and dust cap.

Just an FYI. I got an email back from Earthquake and the rep told me the design is very unconventional and he didn't think I could do it....probably right. This WAS my first time ever messing with the inside of a speaker.

Ohh well. Worth a shot.

[VP Electricity]

Reconing is half of the steps involved in making the speaker in the first place, so it usually isn't inconsequential in cost.

The thing is, burning a voice coil is something that happens when you exceed its electrical power handling, or has a weird defect in the VC in the first place.

Remember, if you turn up your bass control +3 clicks, you are asking your amp to double its output at that note. If you use the bass control with a trunk sub and underseats bandpassed, the bass control is primarily affecting your midbass channels, not your trunk sub channels.

One of the reasons that JL Audio has gone away from bass EQ and towards bass controls affecting the desired channels' output.

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

Reconing is half of the steps involved in making the speaker in the first place, so it usually isn't inconsequential in cost.

The thing is, burning a voice coil is something that happens when you exceed its electrical power handling, or has a weird defect in the VC in the first place.

Remember, if you turn up your bass control +3 clicks, you are asking your amp to double its output at that note. If you use the bass control with a trunk sub and underseats bandpassed, the bass control is primarily affecting your midbass channels, not your trunk sub channels.

One of the reasons that JL Audio has gone away from bass EQ and towards bass controls affecting the desired channels' output.

You lost me. I have both my underseats and trunk sub running off the same channels. I have a LOC tapped into the underseat woofer channels. The LOC goes to the JL 500/1, then from the JL 500/1 to the M500. I would put it the other way around but the M500 doesn't have RCA outputs.

[kaigoss69]

I would never use the HU bass controls for fear of clipping amp inputs. Always better to use amp gains instead.

[fdriller9]

Well I keep the gains on my amp pretty low. Also the gain on my LOC is set about 1/3 of the way up.

I haven't gotten my system right yet. I think because my sub enclosure blocks the ski pass, the bass doesn't travel into the cabin as much as I would like.

I think I need to swap to a different enclosure.....I'm trying to fiberglass this summer. I've always wanted to experiment. Probably should have experimented on my Honda before I sold it....rather than my baby.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by *********

Well I keep the gains on my amp pretty low. Also the gain on my LOC is set about 1/3 of the way up.

I haven't gotten my system right yet. I think because my sub enclosure blocks the ski pass, the bass doesn't travel into the cabin as much as I would like.

I think I need to swap to a different enclosure.....I'm trying to fiberglass this summer. I've always wanted to experiment. Probably should have experimented on my Honda before I sold it....rather than my baby.

The rotational position of amp gains is irrelevant. What matters is that the amp gain level is matched to the level of the input signal. If you're feeding a 4V signal into an amp that will handle a max. input of 4V, then the amp will produce full power at "zero" gain.

More here: http://www.bcae1.com/gaincon2.htm

Note: I'm not suggesting you don't know how to set your gains, but I see the phrase "my gains are barely turned up" too often in connection with people complaining about fried speakers.

Also, if you are not satisfied with 2 Earthquakes under your butt and 2 12s in the trunk, the problem is likely not the enclosure.

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

The rotational position of amp gains is irrelevant. What matters is that the amp gain level is matched to the level of the input signal. If you're feeding a 4V signal into an amp that will handle a max. input of 4V, then the amp will produce full power at "zero" gain.

More here: http://www.bcae1.com/gaincon2.htm

Note: I'm not suggesting you don't know how to set your gains, but I see the phrase "my gains are barely turned up" too often in connection with people complaining about fried speakers.

Also, if you are not satisfied with 2 Earthquakes under your butt and 2 12s in the trunk, the problem is likely not the enclosure.

Thanks for that link. It was a great read.

When I had the SWS-8s in my car, I didn't know much about audio. I was new to this forum and now understand alot more than I did a year ago when I blew the SWS-8s. I wish I blew the sub in my Honda so I could learn from that instead of blowing the SWS-8s.

However, I'm still far from knowing how to properly tune a system.

Anyway, at the time, you're right I didn't know how to set gains. That's probably the reason why I blew them.

It's not that the low end isn't enough for me. When I had the Honda I was all about having the loudest sub in town lol.

But times have changed and I now seek a well balanced system that can produce the low end with a "kick."

I love that "kick" compared to a "boom."...if that makes sense.

I have a Zenclosures box with a single 12" Type-R.....had to reduce the internal volume because I ordered it incorrectly. Internal volume is around .9 cu ft now.

Anyway, I feel like because the back of the enclosure sits pretty much flush with the ski pass opening, it blocks most of the output from the sub. And in order for me to get that "kick" I want, I need to turn up the gain. And turning up the gain makes that "boomy" sound.

When the seats are down, gain is lower, the "kick" is perfect. But I can't drive around with my back seats down all the time.

I think my solution is a new enclosure.....one that mounts in the corner and doesn't block the ski pass opening.

What do you think? And sorry for the ridiculously long post.

[kaigoss69]

I would recommend you get a 1 cu ft sealed box from Best Buy or Crutchfield, to test different positions and orientations of the sub in the trunk. I did this recently, with the full intent of returning the enclosure, but ended up keeping it because I was satisfied with the results. Of course, I've got an MS-8 which helps bring the sub "to the front", but most of the "kick" (or "thump" as I would call it) comes from under the seats. I think digital signal processing and EQ are paramount for achieving good, up-front bass.

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

I would recommend you get a 1 cu ft sealed box from Best Buy or Crutchfield, to test different positions and orientations of the sub in the trunk. I did this recently, with the full intent of returning the enclosure, but ended up keeping it because I was satisfied with the results. Of course, I've got an MS-8 which helps bring the sub "to the front", but most of the "kick" (or "thump" as I would call it) comes from under the seats. I think digital signal processing and EQ are paramount for achieving good, up-front bass.

I've been contemplating the MS-8. But I'm pretty happy with my system....just want more "kick" or "thump" as you call it.

I'll give the 1 cu ft box a try. Thanks.

[VP Electricity]

Originally Posted by *********

You lost me. I have both my underseats and trunk sub running off the same channels. I have a LOC tapped into the underseat woofer channels. The LOC goes to the JL 500/1, then from the JL 500/1 to the M500. I would put it the other way around but the M500 doesn't have RCA outputs.

You have two AMPS running off the same signals. You then have different amp channels running the trunk sub and the underseats.

So are you high-passing the underseats? How?

If you are high-passing the underseats at 65, and you turn your bass up sometimes (there is nothing wrong with turning the bass control up sometimes, that is what it is for - running it up ALL the time indicates a flaw in the system design), the bass control is centered around 100 cycles, and most of the boost is NOT going to the trunk sub if your trunk sub xover point is below 100 cycles. Most of the boost will be going to your 8" woofers.

That's probably why you burned one. You were asking that the amp generate a lot of power when you turned the bass up, and it did.

[bmw325i]

Originally Posted by *********

Thanks for that link. It was a great read.

When I had the SWS-8s in my car, I didn't know much about audio. I was new to this forum and now understand alot more than I did a year ago when I blew the SWS-8s. I wish I blew the sub in my Honda so I could learn from that instead of blowing the SWS-8s.

However, I'm still far from knowing how to properly tune a system.

Anyway, at the time, you're right I didn't know how to set gains. That's probably the reason why I blew them.

It's not that the low end isn't enough for me. When I had the Honda I was all about having the loudest sub in town lol.

But times have changed and I now seek a well balanced system that can produce the low end with a "kick."

I love that "kick" compared to a "boom."...if that makes sense.

I have a Zenclosures box with a single 12" Type-R.....had to reduce the internal volume because I ordered it incorrectly. Internal volume is around .9 cu ft now.

Anyway, I feel like because the back of the enclosure sits pretty much flush with the ski pass opening, it blocks most of the output from the sub. And in order for me to get that "kick" I want, I need to turn up the gain. And turning up the gain makes that "boomy" sound.

When the seats are down, gain is lower, the "kick" is perfect. But I can't drive around with my back seats down all the time.

I think my solution is a new enclosure.....one that mounts in the corner and doesn't block the ski pass opening.

What do you think? And sorry for the ridiculously long post.

I also have the Zenclosures box but I have two Type R's in it and I know what you mean by the boomy sound. Now what I did is I added a vent in the trunk to the cabin

diy here
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...tailgate+bezel

And I am going to add a port to the top of the box going straight into that vent. Now I know almost everyone on this site prefers sealed boxes just because of the sq but this is my aproach.

[VP Electricity]

Actually, I like properly-ported enclosures better - but I'm not willing to live with a boxy box, and it's pretty hard to vent a smaller irregular volume AND keep the vent in the enclosure AND keep the area loud enough to prevent chuffing. Small fiberglass enclosures are hard to vent well. Bigger MDF cubes are not.

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

You have two AMPS running off the same signals. You then have different amp channels running the trunk sub and the underseats.

So are you high-passing the underseats? How?

If you are high-passing the underseats at 65, and you turn your bass up sometimes (there is nothing wrong with turning the bass control up sometimes, that is what it is for - running it up ALL the time indicates a flaw in the system design), the bass control is centered around 100 cycles, and most of the boost is NOT going to the trunk sub if your trunk sub xover point is below 100 cycles. Most of the boost will be going to your 8" woofers.

That's probably why you burned one. You were asking that the amp generate a lot of power when you turned the bass up, and it did.

The underseats are high passed through the JL 500/1



The pre-amp output is set to "filter out", "HP", and around 65Hz.

The bass isn't up all the time. I set the gain on my amps with the bass adjustment in the middle. I only turn it up 2 or 3 clicks max to adjust the bass.

I want to get a remote bass adjustment knob for the JL 500/1 but I've heard using bass boost isn't that great.