[delviacv2]

Originally Posted by iaknown

Either or I suppose. If you have a calipers you can get the measurements that way and make a decent drawing up. Keep in mind we hate templates... we work in thousandths of an inch so a piece of cardboard will probably piss them off lol

what do these plates look like? We have a waterjet here so plates are nothing for us.

probably a gasket could do the trick

[BB_cuda]

Best answer is to give a machine shop a drawing. Stainless steel would be my choice, 303 would be fine for the EGR end to be blocked. For the inlet end to be blocked, exhaust temps are hotter. Not sure if it would be overkill but might need a little more exotic material to not have issues there. 303 SS might still be okay there too. Exhaust manifold temps on the order of 550°C (1022°F)? North of 600-700°F, I would start to think Inconel, but that's me. From a thermal expansion coefficient (TEC for short) standpoint, the material should be a closematch to the parent material around it. I'm not sure what the exhaust manifold is made from but the EGR cooler looks like stainless. Perhaps a heat resistant SS alloy would be the compromise to keep TEC in line.

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by iaknown

Either or I suppose. If you have a calipers you can get the measurements that way and make a decent drawing up. Keep in mind we hate templates... we work in thousandths of an inch so a piece of cardboard will probably piss them off lol

what do these plates look like? We have a waterjet here so plates are nothing for us.

This is an example of one of many egr delete kits.

http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/pe...egr-delete.htm

That kit also has coolant plugs. That is something I'm not exactly sure how best to handle with our engines and appears to be the source of issues some have reported having when trying to delete the egr cooler on the euro 335d's.

Back here you can see where the plate would go on our engines. I ended up tracing the shape outline and bolt holes of that piece and using ~1mm thick steel for that plate. It's been holding up without issues so far.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=109

For the exhaust manifold connection I was just going to try to reuse the existing hardware clamp that looks to do a press fit connection into the exhaust manifold (see pic a few posts back). Was hoping the thick, solid copper slug (6.2mm thick) would form a good compression seal, and its ~1980F melting point should give decent margin to the EGT's. I also made a 4.5mm thick solid steel plate in the shape of the existing hardware clamp and have some exhaust manifold gasket sheeting to help seal the connection as a backup.

I could likely take some measurements and more detailed photo's of that clamp if you are interested in creating something for the community.

[iaknown]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

This is an example of one of many egr delete kits.

http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/pe...egr-delete.htm

That kit also has coolant plugs. That is something I'm not exactly sure how best to handle with our engines and appears to be the source of issues some have reported having when trying to delete the egr cooler on the euro 335d's.

Back here you can see where the plate would go on our engines. I ended up tracing the shape outline and bolt holes of that piece and using ~1mm thick steel for that plate. It's been holding up without issues so far.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=109

For the exhaust manifold connection I was just going to try to reuse the existing hardware clamp that looks to do a press fit connection into the exhaust manifold (see pic a few posts back). Was hoping the thick, solid copper slug (6.2mm thick) would form a good compression seal, and its ~1980F melting point should give decent margin to the EGT's. I also made a 4.5mm thick solid steel plate in the shape of the existing hardware clamp and have some exhaust manifold gasket sheeting to help seal the connection as a backup.

I could likely take some measurements and more detailed photo's of that clamp if you are interested in creating something for the community.

Interesting you put a link up for that 1st kit. I have a tuned 6.4 Powerstroke and made myself that block off plate! The coolant plugs are included because those particular egr coolers suck and are prone to leaks over time from the heat and increased boost pressure. But once you block the EGR gases you also block the heat/pressure. I am running block off plates and still have the coolant running through....no problems whatsoever. You mentioned the coolant as the source of issues on our 335D's. Can you expound?

I see the clamp you mentioned with the slug. I need to look on my car and see where that goes/what it replaces. I can make all of that but I want to see if there is an easier option.

You guys that are worried about material, stainless and/or steel is fine. Nothing more is needed. Keep in mind this plate/plug is not in the middle of a 1700 deg exhaust stream. Yes its exposed to something somewhat near that but in an egr blockoff application it is just acting as a wall, just like any other part of the exhaust manifold. Up near the cold end, aluminum is fine as it is not seeing exhaust temps.

[Puerto Rican 335d]

Rotor take 13 north and meet each around Dover area that way its half qand half

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by iaknown

Interesting you put a link up for that 1st kit. I have a tuned 6.4 Powerstroke and made myself that block off plate! The coolant plugs are included because those particular egr coolers suck and are prone to leaks over time from the heat and increased boost pressure. But once you block the EGR gases you also block the heat/pressure. I am running block off plates and still have the coolant running through....no problems whatsoever. You mentioned the coolant as the source of issues on our 335D's. Can you expound?

I see the clamp you mentioned with the slug. I need to look on my car and see where that goes/what it replaces. I can make all of that but I want to see if there is an easier option.

You guys that are worried about material, stainless and/or steel is fine. Nothing more is needed. Keep in mind this plate/plug is not in the middle of a 1700 deg exhaust stream. Yes its exposed to something somewhat near that but in an egr blockoff application it is just acting as a wall, just like any other part of the exhaust manifold. Up near the cold end, aluminum is fine as it is not seeing exhaust temps.

Good stuff. You have experience in this area :-)

Regarding the coolant ... I'm not sure its a problem, but there's been at least one poster who claimed his EGR cooler cracked and coolant leaked into places that caused engine damage. This would be similar to the 6.4 link video describing engine damage with cracked EGR coolers in the Ford.

As I'm gathering stuff (BMW "special" coolant, some fittings/hose for routing coolant bypass, etc.) it occurred to me that our EGR cooler has its own temp sensor. Who's connection I've played with in the past to reduce EGR utilization. Item 13 in below link.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...84&hg=11&fg=50

And if we remove the EGR cooler, this sensor will be out of the loop. So today I pulled the sensor and plugged that port with a bolt and did a test drive. I didn't find any set or pending codes. I'm guessing this is due to the Ecotune 2nd round remap where some specific codes where pulled.

So, things are looking like it might be worth trying to remove the EGR cooler sometime next week. After I've crisscrossed the state for Christmas celebrations.

I measured the weight of the eBay'd EGR cooler pieces (I've cut it up several places to look/see/measure stuff). ~4 lbs of material on the front of the vehicle. Interestingly, it doesn't hold much coolant. Only 3/4 cup of water is held in the water channel. So, with the cooler and water and assorted bolts for holding it on we're probably talking ~5 lbs of weight.

[iaknown]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

Good stuff. You have experience in this area :-)

Regarding the coolant ... I'm not sure its a problem, but there's been at least one poster who claimed his EGR cooler cracked and coolant leaked into places that caused engine damage. This would be similar to the 6.4 link video describing engine damage with cracked EGR coolers in the Ford.

As I'm gathering stuff (BMW "special" coolant, some fittings/hose for routing coolant bypass, etc.) it occurred to me that our EGR cooler has its own temp sensor. Who's connection I've played with in the past to reduce EGR utilization. Item 13 in below link.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...84&hg=11&fg=50

And if we remove the EGR cooler, this sensor will be out of the loop. So today I pulled the sensor and plugged that port with a bolt and did a test drive. I didn't find any set or pending codes. I'm guessing this is due to the Ecotune 2nd round remap where some specific codes where pulled.

So, things are looking like it might be worth trying to remove the EGR cooler sometime next week. After I've crisscrossed the state for Christmas celebrations.

I measured the weight of the eBay'd EGR cooler pieces (I've cut it up several places to look/see/measure stuff). ~4 lbs of material on the front of the vehicle. Interestingly, it doesn't hold much coolant. Only 3/4 cup of water is held in the water channel. So, with the cooler and water and assorted bolts for holding it on we're probably talking ~5 lbs of weight.

What were the conditions of his EGR cooler cracking and leaking? Was he tuned or stock?

The reason EGR coolers crack is because of the heat, especially on a tuned engine. As i mentioned earlier if you are blocking off the exhaust from it you are also blocking off the heat, thus removing the threat of any cracking/fatigue. Even if it were to crack with blockoff plates (which it wouldn't) the EGR cooler would just fill with coolant but that's it, it has no where to go because it is blocked off on both ends. No damage done.

So what I'm getting at is it sounds like a lot of unneccesary work removing your EGR cooler if you are running blockoff plates. No harm in letting the coolant run through it, it will never spring a leak later on and do damage. And of course the plus side is you don't have to worry about the sensor and codes because you can leave them in. Make sense?

This is how my Powerstroke is (w/EGR coolers that are a LOT more prone to leaks than our cars) and I have no doubts about leaving the cooler on my 335 as well.

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by iaknown

What were the conditions of his EGR cooler cracking and leaking? Was he tuned or stock?

The reason EGR coolers crack is because of the heat, especially on a tuned engine. As i mentioned earlier if you are blocking off the exhaust from it you are also blocking off the heat, thus removing the threat of any cracking/fatigue. Even if it were to crack with blockoff plates (which it wouldn't) the EGR cooler would just fill with coolant but that's it, it has no where to go because it is blocked off on both ends. No damage done.

So what I'm getting at is it sounds like a lot of unneccesary work removing your EGR cooler if you are running blockoff plates. No harm in letting the coolant run through it, it will never spring a leak later on and do damage. And of course the plus side is you don't have to worry about the sensor and codes because you can leave them in. Make sense?

This is how my Powerstroke is (w/EGR coolers that are a LOT more prone to leaks than our cars) and I have no doubts about leaving the cooler on my 335 as well.

He was tuned. Although there's been a lot of reports of EGR cooler's cracking with stock engines. The only engine damage I've heard of was with a tuned engine that was running with EGR delete.

I'm not sure I if you put a delete plate on the exhaust side that you'll be able to make the EGR cooler still fit at the intake side. It's a short, stuby, unflexible thing without much of any slop in fitment...

If I'm going to have to remove exhaust side of the EGR cooler to gain access to that port, I'm just gonna try and pull the whole thing. Not saying that's the best or optimum way to do it, but it's what I want to try.

Here's the measurements on the EGR cooler exhaust oem clamp. The side toward the exhaust with the compression fitting is beveled. I'm not sure how to measure or describe that...

[iaknown]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

He was tuned. Although there's been a lot of reports of EGR cooler's cracking with stock engines. The only engine damage I've heard of was with a tuned engine that was running with EGR delete.

I'm not sure I if you put a delete plate on the exhaust side that you'll be able to make the EGR cooler still fit at the intake side. It's a short, stuby, unflexible thing without much of any slop in fitment...

If I'm going to have to remove exhaust side of the EGR cooler to gain access to that port, I'm just gonna try and pull the whole thing. Not saying that's the best or optimum way to do it, but it's what I want to try.

Here's the measurements on the EGR cooler exhaust oem clamp. The side toward the exhaust with the compression fitting is beveled. I'm not sure how to measure or describe that...

That doesn't make sense that he had engine damage with the EGR delete UNLESS it was just coded out and he didn't have plates on it....which is a possibility....Funny, my car just went in for an EGR valve code and turns out they put an EGR cooler on it too. Sounds like they are a problem. In any case the plates should solve it, if they fit.

So that was my next question....when you unbolt the egr cooler, can you get any movement out of it? To fit something in between? If we can get some, I have an idea of a puck/slug, like yours on one end and cupped on the other. So it would fit over the existing pipe and seal the hole shut with minimal thickness. All you would need are longer bolts to use with the existing flange. Does that make sense?

Can you measure the diameter and thickness of the lip that seals on the tube end? Like the slug you had?

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by iaknown

That doesn't make sense that he had engine damage with the EGR delete UNLESS it was just coded out and he didn't have plates on it....which is a possibility....Funny, my car just went in for an EGR valve code and turns out they put an EGR cooler on it too. Sounds like they are a problem. In any case the plates should solve it, if they fit.

So that was my next question....when you unbolt the egr cooler, can you get any movement out of it? To fit something in between? If we can get some, I have an idea of a puck/slug, like yours on one end and cupped on the other. So it would fit over the existing pipe and seal the hole shut with minimal thickness. All you would need are longer bolts to use with the existing flange. Does that make sense?

Can you measure the diameter and thickness of the lip that seals on the tube end? Like the slug you had?

EGR was coded out, no blocking plates. So there would be a path for water to get into the pistons.

When I was fitting the blocking plate at the intake side, I unbolted several of the mounting bolts, but left the clamp bolts to the exhaust side tight. There was very little movement allowed by the EGR cooler due its stiff construction. The side by the exhaust has some "ribs" on the tube coming into the EGR coolant exchange area which allows a very tiny amount of play. My concern would be the added thickness at the exhaust side for a robust thickness plate would make it impossible to fit the port at the intake side. But that's speculation on my part as I haven't attempted that exact procedure...

I'll try to get those measurements this morning.

[TDIwyse]

Here's the thread/post with the bent rod from the egr cooler leak.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=102

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

I'll try to get those measurements this morning.

I think this is what you were asking for. This is the compression fit portion of the exhaust side portion of the EGR cooler that the clamp presses into the exhaust manifold.

[iaknown]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

Here's the thread/post with the bent rod from the egr cooler leak.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=102

Wow, that sucks.....but that's the chance you take when you tune any diesel with EGR coolers like ours w/o running block-off plates. That could have happened whether the EGR was coded out or not tho.

I don't know if this is an isolated incident or something that is popping up with our tuned cars?? I also wonder if the UK EGR cooling system is any different compared to ours. I wouldn't be surprised if it was....

[iaknown]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

I think this is what you were asking for. This is the compression fit portion of the exhaust side portion of the EGR cooler that the clamp presses into the exhaust manifold.

Yup that's the info I need. By the way, where did you get that copper slug you showed earlier?

Before I make anything I'd like to have a look at my car and see what ideas I can come up with. A few plates for use when removing the EGR cooler is no problem, but ideally I'd like to make a plate/slug that can fit with the cooler in place. I realize that may not be possible though....like you mentioned, there is not much movement to work with. But I have a few ideas. Now I just need to find some time to play around with it.....

[Puerto Rican 335d]

let us knoq J so we can start buying from you

[dixy2k]

PR
how is the erg valve working on your car now? Are able to tell the difference, if it is shut off or still working?

I cannot do anything yet with the software because the guy is on vacation till the 5th next month.

[Puerto Rican 335d]

Dixy my egr was changed at 23k and so far the new one has lasted 37k and counting we hvny deleted anything yet

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by iaknown

Yup that's the info I need. By the way, where did you get that copper slug you showed earlier?

Good.

Regarding the slug ... I "know a guy".

Actually, he's a really good tech here at work and does a lot of custom machining. I was talking with him about it because I was thinking of using a copper sheet as a gasket between the exhaust manifold and my steel plate and he often has little pieces of scrap material. He suggested the copper slug and had some scrap rod. And he works for (good) beer :-) He hand crafted that plug in amazingly little time...

[dixy2k]

Originally Posted by Puerto Rican 335d

Dixy my egr was changed at 23k and so far the new one has lasted 37k and counting we hvny deleted anything yet

I thought it was coded out.

[FormerRotor]

Originally Posted by Puerto Rican 335d

let us knoq J so we can start buying from you

+1 to that, @iaknown. I'd be up for full removal of the EGR. I see little point to keeping the cooler in place 5lbs isn't much, but it would help to counteract the increased weight of the Wagner vs. stock. It is on the very front of the car, too.

[Puerto Rican 335d]

Very true ROTOR the OEM IC is 9lbs versus the WAGNER IC which is over 40 lbs

[iaknown]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

I think this is what you were asking for. This is the compression fit portion of the exhaust side portion of the EGR cooler that the clamp presses into the exhaust manifold.

One more question... When you insert the pipe/crimp into the flange how much sticks out? Lemme know if that makes sense to you or not.