[Onizukachan]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

Ordered B&O midrange speakers for my mom’s F30. Her hifi driver in the back is blown, so I’m upgrading the front sound stage. Will be interesting to hear the difference. Power steering pump is getting done next week, along with pulleys & tensioner.

You may be disappointed… especially if on stock hifi amp still.

The hifi speakers are really quite good… I kept them in my sq focused f31 after seeing jsut how good they were on match7 (clean 90 hz out of a 4”! ), and intentionally swapped to them in my L7 e91 to fix the L7 speakers inherent tonality problems.

[Onizukachan]

As promised, an installed pic of the $35 slip on pedal covers for e9x manual.

Took with flash so you can better see the edges and where they fall, and unlike the seller’s pics I think the dead pedal works better/looks ‘right-er’ oriented the way I did it.

Without flash or seated etc you can’t tell it isn’t full length.

[sebsoja]

So, after a few days do you think they are a worthwhile upgrade? Always interested in something shiny and new

[Seattlesquash]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

As promised, an installed pic of the $35 slip on pedal covers for e9x manual.

Took with flash so you can better see the edges and where they fall, and unlike the seller’s pics I think the dead pedal works better/looks ‘right-er’ oriented the way I did it.

Without flash or seated etc you can’t tell it isn’t full length.

Looking good. I have same product and they been holding up great for years w no issue. Also prefer them over the typical m pedal look.

[Onizukachan]

Originally Posted by sebsoja

So, after a few days do you think they are a worthwhile upgrade? Always interested in something shiny and new

Yes. Nice tight fitment.

Like that the brake/clutch has the edge guard so you can’t catch a flop or shoe edge under the pedal

And I like they aren’t plastered with faked brands like racing dynamics, acs, etc, or M logos everywhere, and stylistically look era appropriate.

Just very simple

[ethews453]

I’ve recently picked up an e92 325i (2008) and having some issue, the EML light came on and comes on/off occasionally with a loss of power, after clearing all codes it was gone for a few weeks and power was fine, now an engine warning light comes on/off with loss of power/misfires/low idle.

Getting worried there might be quite a few issues, my current garage is just an old guy and he ran a check again and there’s 10 error codes so he’s not interested and we’re getting another garage to look at it next wednesday, anyone else had these issues?

I tried asking him to look at and replace the coils/spark plugs as another post I saw said this solved the issue, but he’s uninterested as he doesn’t want to listen to any “online crap”

[DBShiznit]

Originally Posted by ethews453

I’ve recently picked up an e92 325i (2008) and having some issue, the EML light came on and comes on/off occasionally with a loss of power, after clearing all codes it was gone for a few weeks and power was fine, now an engine warning light comes on/off with loss of power/misfires/low idle.

Getting worried there might be quite a few issues, my current garage is just an old guy and he ran a check again and there’s 10 error codes so he’s not interested and we’re getting another garage to look at it next wednesday, anyone else had these issues?

I tried asking him to look at and replace the coils/spark plugs as another post I saw said this solved the issue, but he’s uninterested as he doesn’t want to listen to any “online crap”

Very hard to pin point anything this way. You'd need to have a list of current codes for anyone to be able to look and give you an educated guess. make a thread about it and list the codes and I'm sure you'll get some help

[Hoody007]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

You may be disappointed… especially if on stock hifi amp still.

The hifi speakers are really quite good… I kept them in my sq focused f31 after seeing jsut how good they were on match7 (clean 90 hz out of a 4”! ), and intentionally swapped to them in my L7 e91 to fix the L7 speakers inherent tonality problems.

Ah! Figured. However since one of the drivers were blown anyways, the upgrade seemed decent for $120 (for both). I do know the F chassis Hifi drivers are worlds better than the E chassis stuff.

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

You may be disappointed… especially if on stock hifi amp still.

The hifi speakers are really quite good… I kept them in my sq focused f31 after seeing jsut how good they were on match7 (clean 90 hz out of a 4”! ), and intentionally swapped to them in my L7 e91 to fix the L7 speakers inherent tonality problems.

FYI, a 4” driver has a resonant frequency of much higher than 90 hz. Likely above 250 hz. Plus the fundamental frequency at 90 hz can’t be heard at the short distance from speaker driver to our ears in an automobile. That takes distance.

What we do actually hear is the overtone series of partials at octaves above. This fools our brain into thinking we are hearing fundamental low frequencies that we are not. You may say you can hear a bass playing off a laptop speaker, but this is actually your brain hearing many octaves above that actual fundamental, and the filling in the missing parts of the frequency. These frequencies are only implied.

Knowing this as a lifelong audio engineer allows me to safely imply low end into music mixes without blowing up typical consumer audio systems by careful use of high pass filtering. The high pass filter cuts off anything below a given frequency. Then, boosting equalization below the high pass implies low end to fool the ear into perceived “bass” below a given speakers resonant frequency.

An old audio trick...

[Onizukachan]

I’m playing test tones when I set crossovers. There are no overtones or undertones. Been doing this for 30 years now.

They play 90 just fine and start to chuff at 84ish, thus 36db/oct covers and the 90hz cover point to allow them to play music and make vocals and not just test tones or bass discs.

But back to OP, set your moms bass and treble flat and listen to it a few minutes before you swap one side. See what you think. I bet those and a match7 would work well together.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by BMW Guy

Hey guys,
I just recorded a 3-4 log with my new CSF Radiator. Here are the results with outside temps of 70F. https://datazap.me/u/bmw335in55/csf-rad?log=0&data=15-26-27-28-29-30-31
Huge differences in coolant and even oil temps. And not that the radiator had any effect on this, but look at my timing. PERFECT! I've been fighting timing correction since I bought the car lol. 1.5 gallons of E85 did the trick I guess. When connecting MHD to the car, I always scan for codes. I was met with this:
- DME active codes -
348A - Map thermostat: clamped open.

- DME shadow (inactive) codes -
293E - Coolant temperature sensor: Multiple fault.

Is the CSF radiator overcooling my car like people have mentioned? The coldest it has been these past few weeks when driving was 42F. Is the Coolant temperature code that is no longer active also related to overcooling, or is it something different? Will this cause any issues with the car? Thanks for any help!
P.S. Here is a log before I had the CSF Radiator:https://datazap.me/u/bmw335in55/log-1732821701?log=0&data=3-14

No chance its overcooling. The thermostat takes care of that. My 330 gets to operating temps within 10 minutes (halfway between 160 and 250g and stays there unless I push it through the twisties

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

No chance its overcooling. The thermostat takes care of that. My 330 gets to operating temps within 10 minutes (halfway between 160 and 250g and stays there unless I push it through the twisties

Do you have the aluminum CSF radiator? Overcooling is a common issue with it due to how efficient the low temperature circuit is, especially in cooler ambient temperatures. It might be less of an issue on ATs

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by The Nightman

Do you have the aluminum CSF radiator? Overcooling is a common issue with it due to how efficient the low temperature circuit is, especially in cooler ambient temperatures. It might be less of an issue on ATs

Yessir. Do have a ZF AT

[BMW Guy]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

No chance its overcooling. The thermostat takes care of that. My 330 gets to operating temps within 10 minutes (halfway between 160 and 250g and stays there unless I push it through the twisties

I disagree. CSF Aluminum radiators are known for overcooling when the temperatures are below or around 40. I'm just surprised that this happened in Florida.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by BMW Guy

I disagree. CSF Aluminum radiators are known for overcooling when the temperatures are below or around 40. I'm just surprised that this happened in Florida.

That's fine. I'm just saying for the 6 years I've had my CSR all aluminum rad in my 330 I've never had that issue

[Mitchell431]

M3 diff and powerflex bushings installed! One step closer!!! 👀

[Hoody007]

Whelp, the E46 needs a new radiator. OE BMW is $250, will be doing that and the radiator hoses, and probably the fan clutch too (but I swear we did it maybe 20K miles ago, need to look at the records). Doing control arm bushings next week.

Replaced the expansion tank crossover pipe on the F10 - annoying but not too bad. Plastic was surprisingly brittle, though.

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

I’m playing test tones when I set crossovers. There are no overtones or undertones. Been doing this for 30 years now.

They play 90 just fine and start to chuff at 84ish, thus 36db/oct covers and the 90hz cover point to allow them to play music and make vocals and not just test tones or bass discs.

But back to OP, set your moms bass and treble flat and listen to it a few minutes before you swap one side. See what you think. I bet those and a match7 would work well together.

I have a similar enough setup in the E90 - PP82DSP with Individual Audio components in the front. Stock hifi subs. Sound is very clean and neutral - though I wonder if swapping to Logic 7 subs would help with the low end. Compared to the Professional DSP system in the F10, it is much clearer, but the low end lacks the same punch (and the Dolby ProLogic processing in the 528i is phenomenal).

In my mom’s F30, I’ve already swapped the center channel with an E9x IA center channel - coaxial. Helped a bit with clarity but it’s clear it lacks power, and the tweeters are definitely not detailed enough. Will be curious to see the difference. I do have some OT19 tweeters from my old E90 which I might install too, while everything is apart.

[Onizukachan]

E91 sits looking pretty while I’ve been working on F31 cleanup this week.
Oil change was due as was air filter, and under-hood area was just filthy with dust, cobwebs and tree debris. Still need to clean interior properly, and clean nad condition leather, but it’s getting there.

Ordered another laser engraved plate frame , thought about doing something diesel-ish, but decided to do the same message of “Future Classic” as last one.


Now that I finally got my registration and regular plate today , I finally was able to order my personalized plate. it already sort of references diesel so no need on the plate frame.

[Cal122]

Started to replace the vanos check valves on the 2011/N51. Once the first one was out, I noticed the new replacements are both dented on the screens, ugh. Will need to exchange, but cleaned the existing ones while I was in there.

The bottom valve (exhaust) was clean, however when I pulled the top (intake) it had some metal shavings/glitter both on the check valve and inside the port on the engine side. Soaked and cleaned as best as possible. Engine only has 78k on it and was never included in the vanos recall.

Car regained more pep/torque when driving under 3k rpm and idling better. When I replaced them on the 2006, they were clean but it was like a night/day difference pulling at low speeds and totally worth the $60. Suspect I have some more work to do on the 2011.

Originally had an intermittent code 2A87 (exhaust timing over-retarded), and dealer replaced that Vanos solenoid under SULEV. When this happened, MPG was way down and car was very sluggish.

Started getting an intermittent 2A78 (camshaft position exhaust, cold start) and there isn't much info on this code. So I figured because it was the exhaust side again, I'll change out the check valves because the dealers don't really ever touch them and I don't want to waste my time there.

No codes for now, but I'm debating changing the other vanos solenoid so everything is new at this point and see if I can get a bit more power back. When I run diagnostics on the vanos, the actual positions are within 1-2 degrees of the set point (5 degree is max deviation).

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by Cal122

Started to replace the vanos check valves on the 2011/N51. Once the first one was out, I noticed the new replacements are both dented on the screens, ugh. Will need to exchange, but cleaned the existing ones while I was in there.

The bottom valve (exhaust) was clean, however when I pulled the top (intake) it had some metal shavings/glitter both on the check valve and inside the port on the engine side. Soaked and cleaned as best as possible. Engine only has 78k on it and was never included in the vanos recall.

Car regained more pep/torque when driving under 3k rpm and idling better. When I replaced them on the 2006, they were clean but it was like a night/day difference pulling at low speeds and totally worth the $60. Suspect I have some more work to do on the 2011.

Originally had an intermittent code 2A87 (exhaust timing over-retarded), and dealer replaced that Vanos solenoid under SULEV. When this happened, MPG was way down and car was very sluggish.

Started getting an intermittent 2A78 (camshaft position exhaust, cold start) and there isn't much info on this code. So I figured because it was the exhaust side again, I'll change out the check valves because the dealers don't really ever touch them and I don't want to waste my time there.

No codes for now, but I'm debating changing the other vanos solenoid so everything is new at this point and see if I can get a bit more power back. When I run diagnostics on the vanos, the actual positions are within 1-2 degrees of the set point (5 degree is max deviation).

Hope that glitter doesn't turn into anything extensive. Have you had any oil analysis done? Could tell you something as well.

[Cal122]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

Hope that glitter doesn't turn into anything extensive. Have you had any oil analysis done? Could tell you something as well.

Hope not! Haven't run an analysis, but probably going to do one at the next oil change. Trifecta of gaskets replaced last year, including oil pan and there wasn't anything in the pan. Hopefully it's just from the engine break-in period. Most posts with metal on the check-valves say it was also the top valve that was the dirty one.

[StradaRedlands]

Originally Posted by Cal122

Hope not! Haven't run an analysis, but probably going to do one at the next oil change. Trifecta of gaskets replaced last year, including oil pan and there wasn't anything in the pan. Hopefully it's just from the engine break-in period. Most posts with metal on the check-valves say it was also the top valve that was the dirty one.

Presuming it's fine based on the recent service with nothing noticed.

I really need to do those valves... :-/