[DBShiznit]

Originally Posted by E93Dude

Changed oil and replaced xenon headlight bulbs with LEDs. BMW makes changing the bulbs a pain in the ass. Got tired of the yellowish tint, I like the bright white of the LEDs better. Am surprised that the OEM xenons are still functioning after all these years….

I agree with the Xenon's lasting so long. Although I wonder the difference Osram night breakers would make.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by DBShiznit

I agree with the Xenon's lasting so long. Although I wonder the difference Osram night breakers would make.

I got Osrams CBN for my 330 when they first released. They're a very nice 5000k white and pretty bright. Will definitely be getting another set for the 328

Originally Posted by TekkaMaki

Tested the CD player after 9 months of ownership, because it has a CD player.

When I bought mine I brought a CD with me because I didn't have a bluetooth adapter for it yet 😂 Nickelback felt great on the ride home

[Seattlesquash]

Originally Posted by DBShiznit

I agree with the Xenon's lasting so long. Although I wonder the difference Osram night breakers would make.

I run those since a while. And a nice bump from previous OSRAM but not a massive difference. Have a bulb out in Audi and going the night breaker 220 xenarc in that one this weekend (a new model) but not likely a big difference.

Edit: sorry mine were different, here were my progression and now replacing one of the 2018 bulbs. Bet it’s mostly marketing - none of these appear that high in kelvin as stated, but nice abd white.

[DBShiznit]

Originally Posted by Seattlesquash

I run those since a while. And a nice bump from previous OSRAM but not a massive difference. Have a bulb out in Audi and going the night breaker 220 xenarc in that one this weekend (a new model) but not likely a big difference.

Edit: sorry mine were different, here were my progression and now replacing one of the 2018 bulbs. Bet it’s mostly marketing - none of these appear that high in kelvin as stated, but nice abd white.

Let us know how the night breakers are, I’ve heard they are a great improvement but depending on the year of the car that the bulbs are being replaced on, it could make them seem much better than they really are. Replacing them on a 2008 vs 2018 could be more of a noticed improvement. Curious to see how you’ll rate them.

[Leucosticte]

Originally Posted by DBShiznit

CIC Retrofit done. Lowrydr310 if you're reading this I couldn't get the unit to work LOL This is at absolutely no fault to you of coarse. I tried to get ICOM and MOST but as you said it was too expensive and even tried to see if my friend who's a tech at BMW could help but BMW apparently doesn't do any updates for CIC anymore? However, not all was lost. I work at a collision center so it opens up a few doors to make some purchases. I was able to locate a 2013 e92 with the unit needed, as expected the front plate was aged but the one that came with Lowrydr310's unit was in decent shape. All in all with getting a great deal from Lowrydr310 and the second used unit I was still under $100 for the unit which they sell for over that on Ebay if you're looking at one comparable to mine. The screen I purchased for CIC came in great shape as well. I purchased the one from the early CIC with the protective plastic which makes it easier to keep clean and not so bad if there is a mishap.

I used FaxData's walkthrough which was great with some additional help. The only thing that I wish he had mentioned or maybe I missed is that he asked me to change the build date under VO. This attributed to getting headrest restraint codes(LCI seats have these) and getting codes for the rear belt buckle tensioners. I had to code these out and unplug the rear tensioners. I'm not sure that I was supposed to revert back to my original build but I would think that would interfere with the CIC retrofit coding. Due to changing the code I had to recode all my DRL and door lock settings, however I can't seem to get the DRL's to stay on.

Navigation Maps have also been updated to 2023. This will last a few years for sure. Maybe by then I'll consider Mr12Volt's apple car play.

I have ordered a headlight restoration kit. These also work really really well on the plastic covers on the cluster. Mine has a few scratches and so does the CIC screen so I'll be refreshing the plastic soon. I'll post some photos in case anyone wants to try. Tomorrow I will also begin the search for the COMBOX so that I can finish the retrofit and unlock the BMW apps etc. So far I'm really enjoying the crisp picture, quick response and even HD radio. The sound quality is so much better. I'm thoroughly happy with the unit. It really removes a few years from the aging e90.

Keep the original build date in the modules, there's no need to write that to them.

When you want to interact with the CIC, go into the VO and put the newer build date in, NCS will then display the CIC and other modules that correspond to that build date.

[Leucosticte]

Originally Posted by DBShiznit

I agree with the Xenon's lasting so long. Although I wonder the difference Osram night breakers would make.

From what I remember reading, the bulbs will last but will get dimmer as they age. I read that it's best to replace them every 2 years as a result in order to keep perfect light output.

It could just be marketing so they can sell more bulbs of course, I just put new Nightbreakers in when I built my headlights and I'm very happy with the light output, although I'm sure most of it can be attributed to replacing the yellowing lens and putting new projectors on them. I guess in 2 years I'll take pictures and see if the light output has degraded at all.

[DBShiznit]

Originally Posted by Leucosticte

Keep the original build date in the modules, there's no need to write that to them.

When you want to interact with the CIC, go into the VO and put the newer build date in, NCS will then display the CIC and other modules that correspond to that build date.

But if I switch the build date back won't it write that to the CIC? Maybe I'm just misunderstanding how it all works?

[Leucosticte]

Originally Posted by DBShiznit

But if I switch the build date back won't it write that to the CIC? Maybe I'm just misunderstanding how it all works?

No it won't, the build date is only stored in the FRM and CAS, the CIC doesn't care what it is as it'll work regardless. The reason why you have to change the build date is so it shows up in NCS and you can interact with it.

[DBShiznit]

Originally Posted by Leucosticte

No it won't, the build date is only stored in the FRM and CAS, the CIC doesn't care what it is as it'll work regardless. The reason why you have to change the build date is so it shows up in NCS and you can interact with it.

Gotcha so I can go back to my original build date and all should be well?

Also should I wait for the COMBOX to be added and then do that? or that wouldn't matter either?

[Hoody007]

Scanned the car this AM as I briefly got a engine malfunction light a few days ago.

VANOS code is back. 2D55 VANOS Intake not controllable. This is with a brand new BMW Vanos solenoid. My build date is outside of the Vanos bolt recall, I’m at a loss.

The N55 is turning out to be a huge headache. Honestly should’ve just bought an N54. Shame it’s so hard to find a well-equipped N52…

Posted an update to my ongoing thread (https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...4#post31886674). Welcome any and all thoughts/insights.

[Dirtleg]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

Scanned the car this AM as I briefly got a engine malfunction light a few days ago.

VANOS code is back. 2D55 VANOS Intake not controllable. This is with a brand new BMW Vanos solenoid. My build date is outside of the Vanos bolt recall, I’m at a loss.

The N55 is turning out to be a huge headache. Honestly should’ve just bought an N54. Shame it’s so hard to find a well-equipped N52…

That's a shame man. I understand your frustration. Hope you can get it figured out soon.

[Leucosticte]

Originally Posted by DBShiznit

Gotcha so I can go back to my original build date and all should be well?

Also should I wait for the COMBOX to be added and then do that? or that wouldn't matter either?

Yeah there should be no issues, doesn't really matter which order you do it in but I was just saying this so you could fix your airbag codes.

[DBShiznit]

Originally Posted by Leucosticte

Yeah there should be no issues, doesn't really matter which order you do it in but I was just saying this so you could fix your airbag codes.

I have decoded the head rest and the rear seat belt deployment so I no longer have the codes now.

[Pistols]

So, finally the weather held out so I could get the time-serts installed for the cabin pollen/micro filter.
Got myself some M5 socket bolts and washers. Now just need to get a new upper part that doesn't have the clips snapped off....

[BRG_N54]

Changed the oil and filter in both cars. Got my samples to send off to Blackstone, I will post the results when they arrive.

Also resolved my friends 330 flickering headlight; It was not the ballast but the bulb.

[DBShiznit]

Cluster and CIC screen are now cleaned up. Some elbow grease and patience helps. I sanded everything by hand using the headlights restoration kit and only used a drill with a very soft pad to apply Meguiars PlastX as the finishing touch. The CIC had very superficial scratches. Followed the same steps except I only used the least abrasive pad and wet sanded the plastic followed by the PlastX and everything came out perfect. This is a good diy for us bmw owners with stained cluster plastic. I had this on my e36 and this is how I learned to use this kit to my advantage. Typically I’d break down the cluster to remove the trip reset pin however it wasn’t too bad around that area so I left it alone. Pics were a bit dirty still but you can see the difference.

[Leucosticte]

Originally Posted by DBShiznit

I have decoded the head rest and the rear seat belt deployment so I no longer have the codes now.

Yeah, I thought that this was because of your messed up build date? Might as well have your rear seat belt deployment working just in case. I could be misunderstanding what you're trying to say though.

[Onizukachan]

Originally Posted by DBShiznit

CIC Retrofit done. Lowrydr310 if you're reading this I couldn't get the unit to work LOL This is at absolutely no fault to you of coarse. I tried to get ICOM and MOST but as you said it was too expensive and even tried to see if my friend who's a tech at BMW could help but BMW apparently doesn't do any updates for CIC anymore? However, not all was lost. I work at a collision center so it opens up a few doors to make some purchases. I was able to locate a 2013 e92 with the unit needed, as expected the front plate was aged but the one that came with Lowrydr310's unit was in decent shape. All in all with getting a great deal from Lowrydr310 and the second used unit I was still under $100 for the unit which they sell for over that on Ebay if you're looking at one comparable to mine. The screen I purchased for CIC came in great shape as well. I purchased the one from the early CIC with the protective plastic which makes it easier to keep clean and not so bad if there is a mishap.

I used FaxData's walkthrough which was great with some additional help. The only thing that I wish he had mentioned or maybe I missed is that he asked me to change the build date under VO. This attributed to getting headrest restraint codes(LCI seats have these) and getting codes for the rear belt buckle tensioners. I had to code these out and unplug the rear tensioners. I'm not sure that I was supposed to revert back to my original build but I would think that would interfere with the CIC retrofit coding. Due to changing the code I had to recode all my DRL and door lock settings, however I can't seem to get the DRL's to stay on.

DBShiznit
You weren’t actually supposed to apply the 3/11 build date code to the car. You put it in as if you are going to… then back out. That then gives you CIC options instead of ccc options on ncs so you can read it and code it.

If you can, go back and recode your car back to the correct build date.

[DBShiznit]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

DBShiznit
You weren’t actually supposed to apply the 3/11 build date code to the car. You put it in as if you are going to… then back out. That then gives you CIC options instead of ccc options on ncs so you can read it and code it.

If you can, go back and recode your car back to the correct build date.

Will do so today once I'm home. I much rather have it with my build date.

Also my right side halo bulb decided to stop working... I'm looking to pull the trigger on the Ziza bulb but I'm also wondering if the Lux are worth the additional $$

[Onizukachan]

Found a set of low rise ramps on Amazon and tried them out.
2.5” rise is Perfect for getting a lowered car up high enough to use a jack under it
and only $33 *shipped* on Amazon, MaxxHaul 50516. Perfect for both wagons.

F31-
stripped calipers back to silver base coat as prep for caliper color change
Along with new rotor/pad install.

[TurboTye]

I swapped my diff fluid from 75-90 to 75-140 on the weekend. Winter here, and I'm just trying to track down some droning noise that I've had for a while. I'm 95% sure it's the right rear driveshaft.

Anyhow, I need to drive the car a little more with the different fluid, but it definitely feels like it doesn't unload as quick, which I wasn't really expecting. Granted, 130000kms in, I'm sure the old fluid was losing some of its viscosity. It was definitely way easier to remove the old fluid than put the new stuff in, haha.

Not going to worry anymore about the droning until it's warmer and I can lay under it.

[BMW Guy]

Originally Posted by Onizukachan

Found a set of low rise ramps on Amazon and tried them out.
2.5” rise is Perfect for getting a lowered car up high enough to use a jack under it
and only $33 *shipped* on Amazon, MaxxHaul 50516. Perfect for both wagons.

F31-
stripped calipers back to silver base coat as prep for caliper color change
Along with new rotor/pad install.

I like your neighbors raptor!