[aaddam2]

Noob Question. I am planning on installing a moroso catch can. I am choosing this over BMS because it actually has a drainage valve/spout for easy oil removal.

but my question is after installing catch can, will the existing carbon build up be reduced like a self cleaning oven? where the current deposits would be baked off since it would be "dry" exhaust gasses going through the EGR and no oil vapors to sludge things up?

[QUIKDZL]

CBU won't be self-cleaning. That's why I added water/meth injection. All indications are that it is cleaning up nicely (sticking throttle issue now gone).

[Nadir Point]

Originally Posted by aaddam2

...the current deposits would be baked off since it would be "dry" exhaust gasses going through the EGR and no oil vapors to sludge things up?

A catch can will only lessen the amount of CCV solids being passed through the intake unless you are totally diverting the CCV by plugging the turbo inlet and re-routing the vent elsewhere.

[Diesel_Mike]

The parts list on page 9 is awesome. Just filled my cart and checked out. I'll post up some pictures when I install everything.

[lnxguy]

Originally Posted by Nadir Point

A catch can will only lessen the amount of CCV solids being passed through the intake unless you are totally diverting the CCV by plugging the turbo inlet and re-routing the vent elsewhere.

This is why people should be venting to the atmosphere. Why go through all the troubles of CBU cleaning/EGR delete and then let crankcase vapours back in?

Craziness.

[335dsleeper]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

This is why people should be venting to the atmosphere. Why go through all the troubles of CBU cleaning/EGR delete and then let crankcase vapours back in?

Craziness.

You need crankcase vacuum in forced induced engines. Venting to atmosphere isn't the answer.

You can always pull vacuum with a venturi tube in the exhaust if you're concerned about pulling oil/ particles back into the intake.

[kydiesel35]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

This is why people should be venting to the atmosphere. Why go through all the troubles of CBU cleaning/EGR delete and then let crankcase vapours back in?

Craziness.

OR just skip a catch can altogether and run meth.

[Nadir Point]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

You need crankcase vacuum in forced induced engines. Venting to atmosphere isn't the answers.

Diesels don't make crankcase vacuum.

[335dsleeper]

Originally Posted by Nadir Point

Diesels don't make crankcase vacuum.

lol

They need crankcase vacuum, which is what the CCV system does. The turbo inlet creates a vacuum which pulls pressure from the crankcase.

Countless benefits from a CCV in forced induced cars (diesel or petrol) more power, better ring seal, less blow-by and again, power!

[Nadir Point]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

lol

Yeah, we got something funny going on here, for sure.

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

They need crankcase vacuum, which is what the CCV system does. The turbo inlet creates a vacuum which pulls pressure from the crankcase.

You don't say? You may wish to review this paper published by the Lund Institute of Technology. Please note the word "vacuum" does not appear in it.

Further to your "forced induction" comment...

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

Countless benefits from a CCV in forced induced cars (diesel or petrol) more power, better ring seal, less blow-by and again, power!

From Para. 1.1.3, in part:

Originally Posted by Lund Paper

An easy solution to the problem of reducing the pollution from crankcase ventilation is to close the system so that the crankcase gases are led back to the inlet manifold. This works quite well on naturally aspirated engines, but it does not work as well on those with turbocharger.

[335dsleeper]

Originally Posted by Nadir Point

Yeah, we got something funny going on here, for sure.

You don't say? You may wish to review this paper published by the Lund Institute of Technology. Please note the word "vacuum" does not appear in it.

Further to your "forced induction" comment...

From Para. 1.1.3, in part:

Are you seriously arguing the how a CCV system works or the benefit of vacuum pulled on a crank case? Like seriously?

Diesels don't make MANIFOLD vacuum.

Does the turbo suck or blow into the BMW CCV tube? It pulls, right? The higher the turbo spins, the more it sucks, right? It's sucking gases from the crankcase. Right? Kind of like a vacuum, no?

If you read ALL of my post, you'd see where I mention pulling vacuum with the exhaust to avoid pulling blow-by back into the intake. Regardless, both methods work excedingly well in performance application when used in concert with a quality catch can.

Venting to atmosphere will increase blow-by in forced induced applications. Piston ring seal can be weakened without crank case vacuum, boost pressure then passes by the rings leading to increased crank case pressure, blow-by and power loss.

Might want to do a few more google searches, uber!

[135i_vs_]

Haven't posted here in awhile, been driving the car here and there. Extended the drain interval to 14,000 mile to see what happens.
I will send this out to Blackstone Labs for an analysis; don't think anyone did this for the 335d blow by. Curious to see what is in it.

The car now has 100k. Running like it should be.

Interesting thing is the gooey stuff I scooped with the spoon...can't imagine what it does when mixed with EGR.

So far on this custom catch can set up:
3 years +
~50,000 miles
Original Installation (no parts needed replaced)

Next step is to start looking inside the intake manifold for build up indication.

[335dsleeper]

Looks like the same goo found in many of the higher oil change interval engines.

http://blog.**********s.com/15000-mile-oil-change-myth/

I wonder how many of you have seen the document in this article... it states 10k mile oil changes for the newer 535d.

[135i_vs_]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

Looks like the same goo found in many of the higher oil change interval engines.

http://blog.**********s.com/15000-mile-oil-change-myth/

Forgot to mention, my oil change interval for that duration was close to 13,000 miles, as per the recommended BMW change interval for the 335d. Never needed to top off oil during this time.

I do remember checking the can previously I think in one of the earlier posts, around 7-8k oil interval, and I still remember seeing some build up (sludge?).

I wonder what the accumulation in the can looks like at 5k.
If oil related, I would hope there is no build up at 5k intervals.

BMW never updated that document for the 335d intentionally. So it was left at 13k.

[335dsleeper]

I'm not sure. It is interesting that BMW changed other model intervals. I wonder if it has to do with production numbers.

I wonder if the sludge is just moisture and contaminates getting trapped and being stagnant in the catch can.

Originally Posted by 135i_vs_

Forgot to mention, my oil change interval for that duration was close to 13,000 miles, as per the recommended BMW change interval for the 335d. Never needed to top off oil during this time.

I do remember checking the can previously I think in one of the earlier posts, around 7-8k oil interval, and I still remember seeing some build up (sludge?).

I wonder what the accumulation in the can looks like at 5k.
If oil related, I would hope there is no build up at 5k intervals.

BMW never updated that document for the 335d intentionally. So it was left at 13k.

[temporaptor]

Where is your can located? It could be the oil baking in the catch can causing it to sludge??

[Hoooper]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

Are you seriously arguing the how a CCV system works or the benefit of vacuum pulled on a crank case? Like seriously?

Diesels don't make MANIFOLD vacuum.

Does the turbo suck or blow into the BMW CCV tube? It pulls, right? The higher the turbo spins, the more it sucks, right? It's sucking gases from the crankcase. Right? Kind of like a vacuum, no?

If you read ALL of my post, you'd see where I mention pulling vacuum with the exhaust to avoid pulling blow-by back into the intake. Regardless, both methods work excedingly well in performance application when used in concert with a quality catch can.

Venting to atmosphere will increase blow-by in forced induced applications. Piston ring seal can be weakened without crank case vacuum, boost pressure then passes by the rings leading to increased crank case pressure, blow-by and power loss.

Might want to do a few more google searches, uber!

For the record, with a fresh filter the intake pulls little to no vacuum at normal engine RPM and boost levels. However, the CCV system is designed to work on venturi which is why the CCV connects where it does in the orientation it does.

If anyone wants their CCV system to work even better, use a really dirty filter. The vacuum will be significantly higher in the intake, leading to a much more effective CCV system

[robnitro]

On the TDI we had no issues with the "elephant hose mod" to atmosphere. The only side effect is a slight smell. I did that before I got an eclipse ccv separator.
On trucks before tighter regs, it was normal to vent to atmosphere. At work, many of our generators still do, the smaller ones are non turbo so it's not really specific to turbos.

But I run a separator to the standard inlet to cut down on the smell but with a failsafe... The drain hose has a cheap check valve that cracks open at around 1psi, so if there is ever a blockage it will push the collected oil and vapor out into the ground, lol.

[Thecastle]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

Looks like the same goo found in many of the higher oil change interval engines.

http://blog.**********s.com/15000-mile-oil-change-myth/

I wonder how many of you have seen the document in this article... it states 10k mile oil changes for the newer 535d.

The oil change interval change has very little to do with with oil life, and everything to do with battery life and high oil consumption from under stressed engines. Yes, BMW lowered its oil change interval in part to 10K so as to be able to replace the battery in the efficient dynamics cars every 10K. The newer cars because of their high power draw and recharge only while coasting eat batteries. Its a real issue on many BMW's (including my X5M), its not unique to the V8s, its an issue on all the coast to charge efficent dynamics bmw's.

Also the newer engines because they are under stressed are experiencing high oil consumption (rings don't seat properly). The thing the mod bargins didn't publish was the recommendation to add more oil to cars during oil changes so owners are less likely to see a low oil warning light. Mod bargins is there to sell you stuff, more oil for oil changes. Its not any kind of real reporting.

This issue has been well publicized, here is why BMW changed the interval, and its not what Mod Bargains says. Mod Bargains angle is a little different shall we say, and I say follow the money on that one.
http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cult...ns-bmw-n63-v8/

[robnitro]

I saw a video a while back where they tested many brands of synthetic oils in high heat to find the temperature at which they vaporize and start leaving deposits.

Almost every Castrol/ BMW oil did horribly, leaving deposits on the flask and burning at a low temperature.

I would say that this is why they had issues.

For many years on BITOG forums, it's been known that Castrol synthetic is typically a group 3 lower quality base stock. Some weights like 0w40 and 10w60 use a real synthetic base of group 4. Rotella T6 is a group 3+ done by a special process compared to the cheapo group 3's. Mobil 1 tends to use group 4 but that's changing too on some weights.

There is also the factor of the TBN number which fights the harmful acid buildup from water of combustion and the detergency of the oil which suspends solids such as soot.

True diesel oils such as Rotella T6 have a very good TBN and are able to suspend a lot of soot. A lot of the 0w40 oils are good with that too, because of a strict MB standard (229.5).

But the LL04 oils, requiring low ash, were found to be less robust with TBN and soot holding compared to the dedicated oils.

It's just another case to not use LL04 besides the other post I put about vaporization vs ash.

[AustinMsport]

Sold my X5. I was going to do a catch can. I have brand new in box ADD w1 catch can plus two brand new HPS HTSER90-050-100-BLK High Temperature 4-Ply Reinforced Silicone 90 Degree Elbow Reducer Hose, 100 psi Maximum Pressure, 8" Length, 1/2" > 1" ID, Black. Same elbows mentioned in this thread.


http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showt...1#post23156401

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by AustinMsport

Sold my X5. I was going to do a catch can. I have brand new in box ADD w1 catch can plus two brand new HPS HTSER90-050-100-BLK High Temperature 4-Ply Reinforced Silicone 90 Degree Elbow Reducer Hose, 100 psi Maximum Pressure, 8" Length, 1/2" > 1" ID, Black. Same elbows mentioned in this thread.


http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showt...1#post23156401

Still have the upper EGR coolant caps?