[TwinTuning]

Thank you Mr.5 for this thread. Thank you God, Jesus, Mary, Joseph for the help and support. The rattle is gone for now with 1 full turn of the rod, i think the ride feel better.

[robc1976]

When doing this from the top....Just to confirm, you turn the nut towards the engine to loosen it and turn the rod towards the fender to shorten/tighten it?

[Tari]

Couldn't we also just swap new waste gates since they are fairly cheap ?

[whip_lash]

How there is no recall for this is beyond me... the quirks that come with these cars will never end.

[JavaG80]

This week i took my car to BMW (trying to get everything out of them while it is still CPO'ed for another 7k miles) and told them I was getting a strange noise when i let off the pedal. I acted like i had no idea what it was, and they actually came back and said it was the wastegate and they would fix it. Well, after ordering and installing new actuators, the sound didn't go away. My SA called BMW and they authorized TWO new turbos for my car. Currently being installed....

[rdub315]

Did 2.5 turns and rattle is 99% gone. So nice to just hear intake, BOV, and exhaust noises now!

[Zenith63]

Two turns on the rear turbo worked for me as well, really has to be accessed from below with the right hand drive versions but fairly easy to do with no removal of panels or anything. Might just need to make a 4mm tool to turn the arm, it isn't that tight though...

[hoopvillian]

I'm going to try the fix this weekend. Thank you all for your experimentation and feedback.

[MetzgerMeister]

Hi all,

I've had this horrible rattle since I bought my 335i a few weeks ago. Is there any chance someone could post pictures of where/how to access the rod and how to turn it etc.? I live in Ireland so it's a right hand drive car.

I don't want to go near a stealership and risk the extra-lag software being put onto my so I would be very grateful if someone could help me out.

My car is February 2007 build, there is no mention of 29.2 in any of the service history documents (only 1 owner before me) and I'm 100% sure it's the rear wastegate.

I PMed Mr. 5 a few weeks ago but got no reply. I presume he is no longer active here since he sold his 335i.

Thanks,

Dave

[JamesM3M5]

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...just+wastegate

Mine is a LHD car, so I don't have the steering in the way. Good luck adjusting the front turbo. The rear is relatively easy, and I imagine still lots of room even with RHD. But the front on mine needed 5-6 turns to get adjusted into spec.

[crystaweizen]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

Just to add,
I did do this to my car and it worked perfectly.
I tightened the rod aproximately 2.5 revolutions.

so now i assume by tightening the lock rod youre threading the rod essentially leaving less threads exposed correct? or are you lengthening the threads leaving more exposed and that in turn is tightening the the lockrod...

[Indo Rider]

WTF! I can't even get close to loosing the jam nut. I have a 135. Is there more room on a 335? I even cut the opposite end off my 10mm wrench to try to get at the nut, but all I got was a bunch of scrapes on my forearm from trying to reach down in there. Assuming it's just me, can someone post a pic of the wrenches or other tools you used? I don't get it.

[cek15]

How difficult should it be to spin the actuator rod? I got one revolution done pretty easily but it became significantly harder doing the 2nd turn (and it sounded like the rod was tensioning a spring) so I held off and only accomplished approx. 1 1/4 turns. I ended up tightening the nut back up and testing anyways. Still rattling.

EDIT: Let the engine cooldown and went at it again. Put some duct tape on my macgyvered 4 mm wrench and stood on a bucket to get better leverage to that position and I got the 2nd turn pretty easily. No rattle! I think I made my 4mm a little too stubby (3 in.) so I had no leverage.

[wahooooman]

anybody have a rusted or rounded nut, it seems like mine is rusted and i cant get a 10mm wrench on it, or the nut is simply not there im not sure

[Brett335i]

Can this be done while the turbos are still on the car? If so, I will be doing it this week! I hate that f*c*ing sound!

[takrdown]

Originally Posted by Brett335i

Can this be done while the turbos are still on the car? If so, I will be doing it this week! I hate that f*c*ing sound!

It can absolutely be done while the rear turbo is on the car...as far as the front that's questionable but can be done with special tools and luck. The rear turbo is usually the rattler though. Good luck and be patient! Allow yourself some time the first time you go in there.

[TheRuss]

Hmm, didn't realise these could be adjusted. I thought the rattle just meant new turbos?

[Opo]

So I have read through all 13 pages of this....

Does nobody have a definitive answer if the front turbo wastegate can be adjusted by removing the water pump/other parts? There's gotta be some way...

And when BMW replaces the wastegates/actuators/turbos. Are they replacing them with redesigned ones!? Cuz so many people seem to still have problems even after replacements. Seems to defeat the purpose... Might as well just adjust

[dfjaws]

Originally Posted by Opo

So I have read through all 13 pages of this....

Does nobody have a definitive answer if the front turbo wastegate can be adjusted by removing the water pump/other parts? There's gotta be some way...

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...just+wastegate

[dfjaws]

I just did this in my driveway. It was actually pretty easy. I only used a flashlight, 10mm wrench to loosen the nut, and a hack job 4mm wrench I made out of my old intercooler coupler. The first wrench I made was too soft and it just flexed rather than actually turning the actuator. I did about 1.5 turns and now my rattle is gone. I used the turn and check method. I had no more rattle at about 1.25 turns but I gave it another 1/4 turn to be sure.

[SilentSpring]

I'm afraid Mr. 5 that my car is now worse...

You see I did the method you prescribed and my rattle went away, but now all I can hear is my ps pump squeaking lol

Thank you again!!!


*I'd also like to add my hypothesis as to why this is happening -

1. The nut doesn't actually apply torque to the actuator rod being that the rod isn't secured at either end, the nut just torques to the valve housing and this creates enough compression force on the rod. See number two

2. This area experiences pretty extreme (for an automotive sense) temperature fluctuations, that rod cools at different rates given where it is thereby instilling a natural torque in the rod itself. This natural torque is able to over come the compression force from the nut letting the rod turn ever so slightly every drive cycle.

Thoughts?

[unoriginal]

This not only fixed my rattle, but also fixed my other issue which was the wastegate for my rear turbo getting stuck open.

It may not of fixed it permanently, but it at least bought me some time.