[Socket]

Originally Posted by jl79

What problems did you encounter? I'll see how I go, I might go down the same route. I like the idea of the safety features the JB4 has, which I'm told some of it is already builtin into the DME.

Can I switch to map 0 and run a full MHD flash stage2+ map?

Sluggish, occassional crazy codes.... over boost errors that would put the car into limp mode etc.... Im sure there was something wrong on the JB4 settings (that you can access on a laptop with the JB4 USB cable) but could never work out what was wrong. As soon as I removed the JB4 and went MHD only, car was nice n smooth and all the problems disappeared....

My experience only mate.. others here run the JB4/MHD stacked just fine

Running JB4 in map 0 didn't seem to work for me

[jl79]

Originally Posted by Socket

Sluggish, occassional crazy codes.... over boost errors that would put the car into limp mode etc.... Im sure there was something wrong on the JB4 settings (that you can access on a laptop with the JB4 USB cable) but could never work out what was wrong. As soon as I removed the JB4 and went MHD only, car was nice n smooth and all the problems disappeared....

My experience only mate.. others here run the JB4/MHD stacked just fine

Running JB4 in map 0 didn't seem to work for me

Fair enough, I'll see how I go, do a few more logs and see what's happening. Thanks for the info.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by jl79

Fair enough, I'll see how I go, do a few more logs and see what's happening. Thanks for the info.

No worries good luck mate

[jl79]

Originally Posted by Socket

No worries good luck mate

I have the dreaded wastegate rattle and whislt the jb4 lessens the rattle, the response is crap, the car doesn't feel as quick I would want it to be being fbo, lsd, etc. I've searched everywhere, seems the best permanent fix is to get new turbos lol

[Brule]

Change menu 10 and 12 higher.

If it's sluggish you probably the waste gates open to avoid rattle but if you take the menu 10 and 12 a bit higher you will get your response back.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by jl79

I have the dreaded wastegate rattle and whislt the jb4 lessens the rattle, the response is crap, the car doesn't feel as quick I would want it to be being fbo, lsd, etc. I've searched everywhere, seems the best permanent fix is to get new turbos lol

This is true
Waste gate rattle fix reduces response
New turbos are an expensive fix ($6000+)
Some people have had some luck manually tightening the waste gates but this is just a temporary fix
TBH waste gate rattle is just part of the N54 platform, so you could always just grow to love it

[PETE'S335i]

This is interesting regarding the rattle Socket!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-335I-135...03-Wastegate-R

[Socket]

Originally Posted by PETE'S335i

This is interesting regarding the rattle Socket!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-335I-135...03-Wastegate-R

Vince do these work ?

[jl79]

Originally Posted by PETE'S335i

This is interesting regarding the rattle Socket!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-335I-135...03-Wastegate-R

I saw those the other day was thinking hmmm maybe its an option, but since its a mission just to get to the turbos whilst your there, might as well get them replaced with RB or Pures and WG rattle should never be an issue lol. But if stock turbos are fine, this could be a cheaper alternative for me.

[jl79]

Originally Posted by Brule

Change menu 10 and 12 higher.

If it's sluggish you probably the waste gates open to avoid rattle but if you take the menu 10 and 12 a bit higher you will get your response back.

Thanks for that, I've tried a few different settings to get a balance of just the right amount of response to minimal rattle, still get a lil bit at lower rpms <2k but none at higher rpms >2k plus response is a lot better.

[vtl]

Originally Posted by Socket

Vince do these work ?

You mean removing the turbos from the car and replacing the wastegates?

Replacing the wastegates is possible to diy with a welder and some backyard tools.

In your case I don't think the wastegates need to be replaced, your Pures aren't that old (so doubtful the actual bushing is worn) and I think they just need to be readjusted. Still requires them to be removed from the car though to adjust the front turbo

[Socket]

Originally Posted by vtl

You mean removing the turbos from the car and replacing the wastegates?

Replacing the wastegates is possible to diy with a welder and some backyard tools.

In your case I don't think the wastegates need to be replaced, your Pures aren't that old (so doubtful the actual bushing is worn) and I think they just need to be readjusted. Still requires them to be removed from the car though to adjust the front turbo

Thanks Vince... all praise Yoda

[blk335msport]

Originally Posted by Socket

Thanks Vince... all praise Yoda

Vince is definitely an encyclopedia of knowledge for the n54 engine! He has performed masterful work on my car!

Vince maybe that wastegate fix would be my solution?

[vtl]

Originally Posted by blk335msport

Vince is definitely an encyclopedia of knowledge for the n54 engine! He has performed masterful work on my car!

Vince maybe that wastegate fix would be my solution?

Yes would definitely fix your rattle and any wastegate related boost issues. Problem is removing the turbos is a big job. Most workshops charge anywhere between 1500-2000 for a turbo swap + theres another ~$500 worth of install kit + consumables (oil coolant)

[benny335iblack]

Hi guys, sorry to dig an old thread up, i was wondering if anyone has had connection issues recently with MHD?

i was trying to flash back to stock and it shat itself half way, now the car cranks, but theres no fuel being delivered so it wont start...

i tried to reflash again and again but im having some real issues connecting. its the same cable ive always used and the same android tablet. yes i have a battery charger connected as well

here is a video of what happens

Car: 2010 335i
argh so annoying... any help would be much appreciated!!
MHD keep telling me to make sure my battery is fully charged - i left the car overnight in the garage with the charger attached to the battery in the boot and it should be fully charged.... maybe the battery is shot?

[Digitalism]

Get in touch with someone who has a cable that is known to work.

I had a similar issue, used a cable that worked dozens of times and then one day stop working. Grabbed a cable of someone who knew the cable was working and all good.

[Brule]

when I just had issues(was otg cable) my light on obd2 was on but otg was stuffed showing 0 voltage.

So if it's showing 0 voltage your battery could be fine.

I would suggest an $8 otg cable from office works if your obd2 is lighting up working.

[Brule]

See if your otg or obd is dodgy, open mhd leave it on any screen, then wiggle or bend your cables and see if mhd flickers and opens up new mhd screen.

That's what I noticed with my stuffed otg cable.

[Brule]

Got anything to check the battery voltage?

[benny335iblack]

hey guys, so i dont know which specific thing worked in the end, but i got it running with the following;

it was a combination of brand new AGM battery (FML these are expensive), new OBD cable (thanks BMR Autowerkes), new OTG cable from Jaycar for $4.95, different battery charger that i had lying around (6Amp from Supercheap). previous one was 10Amp and did the exact same shit..

plugged everything in, stuck key in, press start (foot not on brake), reds come up, service light and airbag light comes on, open mhd and new flash... 2 mins later the dash does its funky christmas lights dance, then turn off ignition.

wait 30 seconds, and start the car and vrooooom. Idle is a bit rough, but that comes down to me doing a hard ECU reset the night before.

hopefully the rain subsides and i can take her for a spirited lunge around some twisties and the ECU will learn and remedy itself..

Problem solved! thanks all! nothing worse than having a bricked car in the garage... albeit just for a few hours. super stressful.

btw - going back to the stock map vs even stage 1 with limited mods, the difference is night and day!! omg. those of you who havent already, go mhd flash your car now if you are even 30% computer/tech literate. best $350AUD you will spend performance-wise on an n54 hands down.

[aaron_]

Glad you got it sorted. I have a custom tune waiting to be dialed in as soon as I get my car back from a catless dp + custom single mid pipe job. Can't wait!! Your comment about stage 1 makes me think how good stage 2 and then custom will be!!

[CashedUpBogan]

Don't know if it made a difference or not, but you shouldn't be charging directly to the battery in the boot. Should be charging via the points under the bonnet