[eguti335i]

So i recently got my 335i, so im going over some things that may need replacement or service. i see this is a big issue.

my car has around 49k miles... i tried driving around for about 10 mins to see if this is an issue on my car.. i cant really hear any rattling noises when driving around nor can i hear anything when i try listening up close on the wastegate with the hood open.. i'd like to do it anyways as it wont really hurt the cause if it was indeed fine to begin with.

my bolt is a little rusted like a few others here, so its a little tighter than usual. should i be worried about using too much force and braking the rod?

if i cant hear anythng, should i just leave it alone? i feel like if i mess with it i might fxxx something up. lol

[psychosinmylobby]

I'd leave it alone. If you snap that rod, it would be a big job to replace.

[eguti335i]

oh wow, so i heard this issue on another 335i on the road the other day...

there is no doubt that you will clearly hear this if your car has it.. thankfully i cant hear this on my wastegates..(knock on wood)

like they say if its not broken, dont fix it(or dont touch it in this case).

[Dommyem]

Originally Posted by loknar

So many things can go wrong here.. I'm not a turbo engineer either.. aren't you worried the dynamics will change. What's the tolerance of these actuators? I'm just asking but you seem to now what you're doing

Haha, to be honest the issue is really quite simple, it's only a worn shaft/bush. I did a lot of reading up and you I worked out that a +0.15mm tolerance in the bush (before its pressed into the turbo) meant that a +0.10mm tolerance could be held after fitting the bush. 0.10mm seems to be the sweet spot to avoid any expansion closing the gap. It's all finished now. I will update my post soon. What I have learned is that yes this isn't something you can do in your garage, but for those lucky few that have a mate in a machine shop or have access to a work shop of their own, this is definitely something that is do-able - if not a bit ballsy

[mr.teejay]

I recently tried this on my car and had a question for anyone who's adjusted the rod for the rear turbo. How tight are you supposed to go? I know that OP went about 2.5 revs, but for me hand tight was probably 7-8 revolution (it's an 08 and with 92k miles, probably has never had the WG rods touched). Should I loosed it back a bit? I still have rattle when revs fall and not sure if I have to try an look at the front turbo. Any advice?

[Psyrick]

My waste-gate rattles like a snake when I let off the pedal and I've been getting the 30FF on accelerations lately. The torque also feels weak. With Torque app I measure 210ft/Lb peak torque on most accelerations. I tried tightening the actuator, but the lock nut is rusted and shrunken. Even with my in-house specially modified 9.4mm wrench, that fit tightly, only stripped the thing round. Not sure what's my best option now.

[DaZuc]

Just did this today, it cleared up all of my rattling noise.
I previously did the JB4 WG Menu 10, but had horrible lag and a louder exhaust.
I set the settings on menu 10 back to stock and it works like new!

I did 2 rotations of the rod.

[zort]

Hey Guys so I just did this mod and a bit confused. I have the rattle at deceleration and it disappears when I engage the clutch - like coming to a stop light.

Now I tightened one revolution and still had the rattle so did another revolution. Now the boost has dropped off - JB4 map 1. Not totally but definitely lower than before. Not sure why but i cannot figure out why boost would drop from this mod at all.

Help .

[=C=]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

Just to add,
I did do this to my car and it worked perfectly.
I tightened the rod aproximately 2.5 revolutions.

Do you tighten the rod clockwise or anticlockwise?

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

It's exactly the same.
I wasn't loosing boost before because once pressure builds up, the wastegate gets pushed to the seal since the pressure inside is so high.

This is why you do not hear the ticking under acceleration.
If you do hear it under acceleration, then you have another problem.

I have this only on light acceleration low rrpm and this is with new stock turbo's. If I give it the beans there is a slight rattle at the start then no rattle at all. Any ideas?

[=C=]

Originally Posted by Game

So I gave my rod about 1.5-2 turns and the rattle is still there. Does it look like I have room to turn it some more?

I don't know how you can access the rear actuator like that because my is obstructed...

335i

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by =C=

I don't know how you can access the rear actuator like that because my is obstructed...

335i

The rear one is totally accessible. Buy a Sears mini wrench set and work it in, quarter turn at a time, and try not to drop it.

[Snypa]

Guess I'm next in line to fix this issue however I just need some confirmation/clarification on the nut/rod turning direction and procedure.

1. Do you have to hold the rod before loosening the nut?
2. When loosening the nut from ABOVE the rod do you go towards engine or fender?
3. When turning the rod from ABOVE the rod do you go towards the engine or fender?
4. Which canister controls which turbo?

Thanks Guys !!

[DaZuc]

Originally Posted by Snypa

Guess I'm next in line to fix this issue however I just need some confirmation/clarification on the nut/rod turning direction and procedure.

1. Do you have to hold the rod before loosening the nut?
2. When loosening the nut from ABOVE the rod do you go towards engine or fender?
3. When turning the rod from ABOVE the rod do you go towards the engine or fender?
4. Which canister controls which turbo?

Thanks Guys !!

People have already answered most of your questions in this thread.

1: No, you do not need to hold the rod while loosening the nut.

2+3:

Originally Posted by jpsimon

From the top, reaching down from the passenger side of the car, with the wrench parallel to the ground (handle pointed away from the block) you pull the wrench upwards towards the block to loosen the nut.
The reverse (pushing it towards the ground away from the block) will tighten the rod.

4.
(Try it^)

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by DaZuc

People have already answered most of your questions in this thread.

1: No, you do not need to hold the rod while loosening the nut.

2+3:

4.
(Try it^)

I know it's a long thread but I honestly can't remember the direction to turn the nut and rod. I'd have to look back at the thread myself to verify. Happy hunting

[Snypa]

Originally Posted by DaZuc

People have already answered most of your questions in this thread.

1: No, you do not need to hold the rod while loosening the nut.

2+3:


4.
(Try it^)

Thank You. The reasons I did this was because after going through the entire thread, I saw different responses in respect to direction of rod/nut, so I figured lets have one solid confirmation part in here for others that may come searching later.

[PN3UMA]

Thanks for posting this.

[Johnnyblaze535i]

Man this thread a wealth of info. Have the ticking and rattle sound. Indy tried to say code was not wastegate until he hired specialist and sure enough i was correct. Thanks to the forums

I am not sure if its the rear or front turbo and could use a little help in locating them. Do i need the car on a lift? I see the vacuum housings and holding pressure well. Its just when I hit the gas the car goes into limp mode. Would love to try this temp fix until I can buy new turbos if even needed. any direction to point me in will be greatly appropriated.

2008 / 535i

[TrollToll]

Originally Posted by johnblaze1212

Man this thread a wealth of info. Have the ticking and rattle sound. Indy tried to say code was not wastegate until he hired specialist and sure enough i was correct. Thanks to the forums

I am not sure if its the rear or front turbo and could use a little help in locating them. Do i need the car on a lift? I see the vacuum housings and holding pressure well. Its just when I hit the gas the car goes into limp mode. Would love to try this temp fix until I can buy new turbos if even needed. any direction to point me in will be greatly appropriated.

2008 / 535i

If you get any info it would be great to have. I've searched everywhere for information specific to the 535i and can't find anything helpful. One guy claims to have adjusted his but it was years ago and he can't be reached. All I know is that the 535i has much less working space than the 1 or 3.

[Johnnyblaze535i]

Originally Posted by Yournamehere90

If you get any info it would be great to have. I've searched everywhere for information specific to the 535i and can't find anything helpful. One guy claims to have adjusted his but it was years ago and he can't be reached. All I know is that the 535i has much less working space than the 1 or 3.

Thank you and yes... Very little room to work. Going to take to indy and have him put on a lift . Can get to 1 of them from underneath the car. will let you know what comes of this. hoping not new turbos

[Dylan484]

I read through most of the thread, but I may have missed it, can you do this in an n55 engine?

Edit: Nvm just saw this was in the n54 section, I was linked to this thats why I didnt think to look there.

[GottWhat]

A few weeks after buying my car, the rear main started leaking. I had an independent shop replace the rear main and since I was about to hit 100,000 miles I had him swap out the clutch as well. Anyway, he mentioned that the wastgates were rattling a bit and said he tried to adjust the rods but the nuts were a bit rusty and he didn't want to risk damaging them.

Did anyone else have this issue? Would it be dangerous to spray some penetrating oil on them so close to the exhaust?

I would really like to do this mod so I can at least recover from paying for the prior repairs before having to replace the turbos.

[chinko]

Originally Posted by GottWhat

A few weeks after buying my car, the rear main started leaking. I had an independent shop replace the rear main and since I was about to hit 100,000 miles I had him swap out the clutch as well. Anyway, he mentioned that the wastgates were rattling a bit and said he tried to adjust the rods but the nuts were a bit rusty and he didn't want to risk damaging them.

Did anyone else have this issue? Would it be dangerous to spray some penetrating oil on them so close to the exhaust?

I would really like to do this mod so I can at least recover from paying for the prior repairs before having to replace the turbos.

I wondered the same when I had my clutch and flywheel replaced and also replaced the real main seal. My Indy said to just live with it, the risk was greater than the benefit. I don't have any code and couldn't really hear it with stock DP, but since I installing catless ones, it's really noticeable now. Tried the software fix but doesn't help that much, whenever I release the pedal it rattles like a snake. But the spool sound is so nice