[Big_CG]

Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam

Which fuses are pulled?

Trunk fuse panel, pull all the ones with the gas pump icon next to it

[Tallicia]

Originally Posted by Big_CG

So in my paranoia after reading this thread- I went back out and drained all the oil again to check for shavings or mixed coolant. Nothing, it looked like any oil that has been run for 10 mins would look.

Checked the oil filter housing for any issues- nothing.

Pulled the fuel pump fuses and turned the starter over for 10 seconds, with 30 seconds of cool down following. Did that 3 times total.

It sounds perfect at idle, and I've put about 5 miles on it with no issues at all so far. We will see how next week goes

Is she running good still? Did you take any pics of the area and mounting surfaces? Did you prep the area around the OFH and keep it clean as can be before replacing the gasket?

[Big_CG]

Originally Posted by Tallicia

Is she running good still? Did you take any pics of the area and mounting surfaces? Did you prep the area around the OFH and keep it clean as can be before replacing the gasket?

Yeah no issues. I didn't prep anything but kept it clean and vacuumed before installing the housing. I used 2k grit sandpaper to smooth the mating surface also. This is my third n55 ofhg repair total. Never had any issues. I mean it's the most common BMW repair since 2006.

I'm wondering if the cases we are seeing of seizing are incorrect installation and leaving towels in the ports, or maybe belt getting sucked intro sump

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by Big_CG

Trunk fuse panel, pull all the ones with the gas pump icon next to it

Great to know. That's much easier than disconnecting all the injectors connectors.

[vespa]

Originally Posted by Big_CG

There are three fuses that get pulled. With the fuses pulled, no fuel is supplied to HPFP and the engine won't run or send fuel to the injectors. I cranked it in this condition to get the oil priming, so I don't see how the injectors would be injecting fuel if the car was not starting.

Fuel is always available to the HPFP and in theory the car should run OK with the fuses pulled as the LPFP just helps to reduce startup times and prevent cavitation under high load. If you were able to repeatedly crank the engine with spark plugs connected and not have it start, I suspect the fuse pulling must have somehow prevented the injectors from firing. At startup the ECU waits for fuel pressure to reach some threshold before firing any injectors and maybe you pulled a fuse related to the pressure sensor so the ECU never knew there was fuel available. If that's the case, this method is probably perfectly fine and harmless. Did you smell any fuel or have a rough start afterward?

[Big_CG]

Originally Posted by vespa

Fuel is always available to the HPFP and in theory the car should run OK with the fuses pulled as the LPFP just helps to reduce startup times and prevent cavitation under high load. If you were able to repeatedly crank the engine with spark plugs connected and not have it start, I suspect the fuse pulling must have somehow prevented the injectors from firing. At startup the ECU waits for fuel pressure to reach some threshold before firing any injectors and maybe you pulled a fuse related to the pressure sensor so the ECU never knew there was fuel available. If that's the case, this method is probably perfectly fine and harmless. Did you smell any fuel or have a rough start afterward?

I was able to crank the car for about 25 seconds total without starting with those fuses pulled. Upon reinstalling the 3 fuses, the car fired right up and idled normally with no fuel smell.

[mdesai93]

I had the oil filter housing gasket replaced recently on my E90 2011 335i xDrive and ever since, whenever the oil temperature reaches about 240 degrees Farenheit, I get an engine malfunction warning. If you clear the codes, car runs normal up until you get to 240-250 degrees and the engine malfunction comes back on. I had the oil filter and oil changed again from 0W-30 to 5W-30 but it hasn't helped. Has anyone encountered this issue before?

Thank you for your help

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by mdesai93

I had the oil filter housing gasket replaced recently on my E90 2011 335i xDrive and ever since, whenever the oil temperature reaches about 240 degrees Farenheit, I get an engine malfunction warning. If you clear the codes, car runs normal up until you get to 240-250 degrees and the engine malfunction comes back on. I had the oil filter and oil changed again from 0W-30 to 5W-30 but it hasn't helped. Has anyone encountered this issue before?

Thank you for your help

So you cleared the codes but didnt think it would be a good idea to post them here for diagnosis ? WTF..

[Ozzie335i]

If you did not clear the history, check there and report back.

[mdesai93]

Sorry fellas, I had the codes and forgot to post them. The codes are:
2D60 - Vanos exhaust control fault, camshaft stuck
2C58 - charging pressure control, deactivation pressure build up blocked

This is after having both solenoids replaced as well with OEM solenoids from BMW.

[arkie6]

VANOS codes are often the result of low oil pressure. I can think of a couple of things that can cause that, 1) the VANOS solenoid anti-return valves/filters are plugged up, or 2) your oil filter cap inner plastic cage wasn't installed which is allowing oil pressure to bypass the oil gallery and drain out of the housing. It is easy to check the oil filter cap cage and drain seal o-ring on the tip is installed by just removing the cap and inspecting it. There are youtube videos out there on how to inspect/clean/replace the VANOS anti-return valves/filters.

[mdesai93]

I did get a low oil pressure warning when trying to use aftermarket solenoids but I immediately changed to OEM and have not had that issue since. I will try to clean the anti-return valves/filters next. As for the oil filter cap, I made sure the mechanic installed the o-ring on the top however he did note the top of the cap looked drier than he expected. I will go ahead and buy a new oil filter cap as its a cheap part anyway. Thank you for the advice.

[arkie6]

Originally Posted by mdesai93

I did get a low oil pressure warning when trying to use aftermarket solenoids but I immediately changed to OEM and have not had that issue since. I will try to clean the anti-return valves/filters next. As for the oil filter cap, I made sure the mechanic installed the o-ring on the top however he did note the top of the cap looked drier than he expected. I will go ahead and buy a new oil filter cap as its a cheap part anyway. Thank you for the advice.

I'm talking about the small (~3/8" ID) green/blue o-ring that goes on the tip of the oil filter cap cage and seals the drain hole in the bottom of the oil filter housing. I'm not talking about the large o-ring that seals the cap to the housing. It is really easy to check this. Just let the engine cool off, loosen the oil filter cap until the threads are completely un-threaded from the housing, wait a minute or so for the oil to drain out of the housing, then lift up the oil filter cap with oil filter and inspect. If all is good, simply re-install it. If something is missing or damaged, don't start the engine until you get it replaced.

[Tallicia]

Originally Posted by mdesai93

Sorry fellas, I had the codes and forgot to post them. The codes are:
2D60 - Vanos exhaust control fault, camshaft stuck
2C58 - charging pressure control, deactivation pressure build up blocked

This is after having both solenoids replaced as well with OEM solenoids from BMW.

FWIW I was having some exhuast VANOS issues and a third solenoid and everything is good. Maybe something inside where the solenoid matches the oil passages to the head/VANOS unit was off and leaking, but was worth swapping them around and trying an extra one.

It's much less than swapping a VANOS gear unit or the cam/seal

I also wondered if maybe something was stuck/blocking in the internal oil port and somehow it eventually dislodged/moved out of the way and hopefully into the oil filter.

YMMV, but it may be worth swapping them and or trying one alternate in the exhuast solenoid place.

[vespa]

I can't imagine any way a N55 VANOS solenoid could ever malfunction, wear out, or clog -- I think that's a N54 thing. The N54 would chew up the camshaft and spit the shavings into the solenoid filter but the N55 has no such "feature". The solenoid is nothing more than a scrap of steel rod rattling loosely in a steel tube with a piece of wire wrapped around the outside. There's almost no possible way for anything to go wrong with it unless you pack it full of camshaft grindings.

[mdesai93]

Thanks all. I am going to check the oil filter housing cap, vanos filters and possibly do another oil change with the motul oil flush. I'll report back with the results. Crossing my fingers

[mdesai93]

Quick update. I opened up the oil filter housing cap and the cap cage is completely missing. I'm not sure how long the car has been running like this and I guess I'm fortunate nothing serious has happened yet but I am going to buy the new oil filter cap with the cage and install it ASAP. I'm also going to do an engine flush with Liqui Moly and do an oil change with a new filter. Any other suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thankse

[arkie6]

Glad you found the problem. Hopefully, no serious long term damage was done. Someone likely pulled the cage off the cap when removing an old oil filter and didn't realize what had happened.

[mdesai93]

Do you think another oil change is necessary with this oil only being 4 or 5 days old? I've probably driven the car a total of 30 miles with the new oil but no cap cage.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by arkie6

Glad you found the problem. Hopefully, no serious long term damage was done. Someone likely pulled the cage off the cap when removing an old oil filter and didn't realize what had happened.

You have provided a few times now EXCELLENT information. Thank you sir !

[arkie6]

Originally Posted by mdesai93

Do you think another oil change is necessary with this oil only being 4 or 5 days old? I've probably driven the car a total of 30 miles with the new oil but no cap cage.

Honestly, I don't know what changing the oil at this stage would gain you. I would focus on fixing the oil filter cap and seeing if your codes clear. Inspect your oil filter and see if any metallic particles are visible in the outside folds. Run a strong magnet over the outside of the filter and between folds and see if you collect any particles. If you don't see or collect any particles, then you are likely fine. I would still probably change the oil and filter sooner than normal though, just for peace of mind if nothing else.

I don't think that oil filter cap cage will come with an o-ring on the tip. Those generally come with the oil filter package. Do you know what happened to the little o-ring that was in the oil filter package the last time the oil was changed?

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by arkie6

Honestly, I don't know what changing the oil at this stage would gain you. I would focus on fixing the oil filter cap and seeing if your codes clear. Inspect your oil filter and see if any metallic particles are visible in the outside folds. Run a strong magnet over the outside of the filter and between folds and see if you collect any particles. If you don't see or collect any particles, then you are likely fine. I would still probably change the oil and filter sooner than normal though, just for peace of mind if nothing else.

I don't think that oil filter cap cage will come with an o-ring on the tip. Those generally come with the oil filter package. Do you know what happened to the little o-ring that was in the oil filter package the last time the oil was changed?

This is actually very important for him to check.

What i would do is check the oil filter for metallic particles. If they are present then i would go ahead and replace all rod bearings proactively.