[BeastMode335i]

How's this look... lol..

[ferocity02]

Wow... That is along the same lines as underneath your valve cover. Looks like the oil couldn't drain out and leaked out through the turbo seals.

[tc535i]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

How's this look... lol..

Damn... previous owner ignored maintenance intervals?

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by ferocity02

Wow... That is along the same lines as underneath your valve cover. Looks like the oil couldn't drain out and leaked out through the turbo seals.

Yeah, I actually read someone else on here had an oil drain clog and it fried their turbo as well but I can't find the person/thread where I read it..

I guess because it gets so hot right there, that after not following proper 3k mile oil change interval it just started caking up.. smh...

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by tc535i

Damn... previous owner ignored maintenance intervals?

Yeah, big time.. You should have saw what it looked like when I took off my valve cover ;/ there's pics in my other thread..

[bigdnno98]

Insufficient drain will blow turbo seals in a hurry.

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by bigdnno98

Insufficient drain will blow turbo seals in a hurry.

Yeah that's what I read as well.. That's just my luck I guess ;/

I called around to see who could do an engine flush and doesn't seem like anyone local is in to that..

[bigdnno98]

since you're doing turbos, I'd replace all feed and drain lines to possibly prevent further turbo damage.

[TBN54]

Well slap my ass and call me Jimbo, this looks awful.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

Yeah, I actually read someone else on here had an oil drain clog and it fried their turbo as well but I can't find the person/thread where I read it..

I guess because it gets so hot right there, that after not following proper 3k mile oil change interval it just started caking up.. smh...

Well this car calls for a 12K mile oil interval change.

3K is an old wives tail, actually a myth created by oil companies to get people to change their oil more often.

You can comfortably go a good 10K or more on today's synthetics.

Eitherway, something was neglected from the previous owner.

Have you dropped the oil pan by any chance?

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Well this car calls for a 12K mile oil interval change.

3K is an old wives tail, actually a myth created by oil companies to get people to change their oil more often.

You can comfortably go a good 10K or more on today's synthetics.

Eitherway, something was neglected from the previous owner.

Have you dropped the oil pan by any chance?

Actually just ordered a new oil pan gasket, figured since I have the subframe dropped a little bit it'd be best to change that while I'm down there, and mine's leaking a little as well.. Is ECS the best place to grab a replacement..??

Thanks!

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by bigdnno98

since you're doing turbos, I'd replace all feed and drain lines to possibly prevent further turbo damage.

I cleaned them out with brake cleaner and they look brand new now, would they not be reusable?

[JDuke335i]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

I cleaned them out with brake cleaner and they look brand new now, would they not be reusable?

As long as you cleaned them and they are spotless all the way thru , you can reuse them

[3000GT MR]

Aren't you the one that had excessive build up under the valve cover? Looks to me like your oil was never changed on cheap non-synthetic oil maybe by the previous owner. Just run your car off straight sea foam in the crankcase lol JK but you may want to do a good crank flush with proper amounts of sea foam and do an early oil change. I would go as far as to removing the oil pan and checking/clean you oil pick up. Thats the last thing you want clogged.

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by 3000GT MR

Aren't you the one that had excessive build up under the valve cover? Looks to me like your oil was never changed on cheap non-synthetic oil maybe by the previous owner. Just run your car off straight sea foam in the crankcase lol JK but you may want to do a good crank flush with proper amounts of sea foam and do an early oil change. I would go as far as to removing the oil pan and checking/clean you oil pick up. Thats the last thing you want clogged.

Yes that's me..

And that's definitely in my plans for this coming weekend.. Shopping around for an oil pan gasket now, and hoping my bolts don't break off like many others I've read..

[bigdnno98]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

Yes that's me..

And that's definitely in my plans for this coming weekend.. Shopping around for an oil pan gasket now, and hoping my bolts don't break off like many others I've read..

Good luck! Take pics! As long as you're 100% certain your feed and return lines aren't clogged you'll be fine. I'd just get new ones because that's how I am I guess.

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by bigdnno98

Good luck! Take pics! As long as you're 100% certain your feed and return lines aren't clogged you'll be fine. I'd just get new ones because that's how I am I guess.

I put a flexible fine bristle brush drill attachment on my drill and sprayed it with brake cleaner as I did a honing motion and at first it was black when going in and out but then it was clear after a minute or two... Hosed them down with water after that, and blew them dry with air compressor..

[Kevinl]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Well this car calls for a 12K mile oil interval change.

3K is an old wives tail, actually a myth created by oil companies to get people to change their oil more often.

You can comfortably go a good 10K or more on today's synthetics.

Eitherway, something was neglected from the previous owner.

Have you dropped the oil pan by any chance?

I wouldnt run more than 10k on these engines even less if there is no oil cooler
Oil is cheap compared to this disaster

Bmw came up with this oci because they pay for maintenance and its not their problem what happens after warranty is up

Also didnt bmw reduce the oci for the newer models

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by Kevinl

I wouldnt run more than 10k on these engines even less if there is no oil cooler
Oil is cheap compared to this disaster

Bmw came up with this oci because they pay for maintenance and its not their problem what happens after warranty is up

Also didnt bmw reduce the oci for the newer models

Yeah I'm going to change mine around 5-7k from now on.. I wanna learn some more about that Rotella because I've heard it does have cleaning detergents and I heard it doesn't..

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

Actually just ordered a new oil pan gasket, figured since I have the subframe dropped a little bit it'd be best to change that while I'm down there, and mine's leaking a little as well.. Is ECS the best place to grab a replacement..??

Thanks!

I suppose. I usually try the local dealer first, even if it's more expensive you avoid the shipping and waiting. Really depends on what it is.

Originally Posted by Kevinl

I wouldnt run more than 10k on these engines even less if there is no oil cooler
Oil is cheap compared to this disaster

Bmw came up with this oci because they pay for maintenance and its not their problem what happens after warranty is up

Also didnt bmw reduce the oci for the newer models

I agree the 12K+ was a bit high. In an ideal condition, stock vehicle, driven "normal" it was probably on the edge of the OCI. But every 3K would be wasteful.

Every car and conditions is different. If you really want to know, you need to get an oil analysis done. I don't even put 10K miles on my cars a year so I just change the oil every year but otherwise every 7500 miles is my number for a quality synthetic.

[BeastMode335i]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

I suppose. I usually try the local dealer first, even if it's more expensive you avoid the shipping and waiting. Really depends on what it is.



I agree the 12K+ was a bit high. In an ideal condition, stock vehicle, driven "normal" it was probably on the edge of the OCI. But every 3K would be wasteful.

Every car and conditions is different. If you really want to know, you need to get an oil analysis done. I don't even put 10K miles on my cars a year so I just change the oil every year but otherwise every 7500 miles is my number for a quality synthetic.

Yeah I figure that 7k range is safe using a quality synthetic.. Some of you guys have access to better oil options, down here in Fort Myers we're pretty much stuck with OEM BMW oil or Mobil 1 0w-40.. It gets hot as hell down here though so I question that 0w-40.. Probably should run a 5 or 10w-40 right?

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

Yeah I figure that 7k range is safe using a quality synthetic.. Some of you guys have access to better oil options, down here in Fort Myers we're pretty much stuck with OEM BMW oil or Mobil 1 0w-40.. It gets hot as hell down here though so I question that 0w-40.. Probably should run a 5 or 10w-40 right?

Here is a good explaination of viscosity.


The first number is pretty irrelevant to someone in warm weather.

VISCOSITY

Most oils on the shelves today are "Multigrades", which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc)

Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.

In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the "W" number the better the oil's cold temperature/cold start performance.

The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100°C. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number, the thinner the oil: a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100°C etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.

http://www.driverstechnology.co.uk/oils.htm

I run 5W-30 Red Line in all my cars. Only other oils I like are Amsoil and Motul. Just personal preference though. I don't like Mobil 1 simply for that fact that I found it to sheer the most.

Castrol Euro formula was another good one if you could find it.