I've had good luck with RLI...if I didn't have a ton of T6 laying around, which I got for cheap, I'd prob keep running it:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=2782766

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

Could be because I take a lot of short trips as my daily commute is only a couple of miles. Oil temperature doesn't get past 170 on my daily drive to work. Also push it a little hard when I'm running late. Definitely holding back after the Analysis

Comparing posts #15 and #20, it looks like the Redline (5w-30) stays thicker at operating temp than does the Total.

[BQTuning]

FYI, Redline is a LL01 approved oil

https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=2


Have been using this oil on my current Z4 and previous 335is.

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

Comparing posts #15 and #20, it looks like the Redline (5w-30) stays thicker at operating temp than does the Total.

Is that a good thing?

[r4dr]

Originally Posted by ********

FYI, Redline is a LL01 approved oil

https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=2


Have been using this oil on my current Z4 and previous 335is.

It is RECOMMENDED. Anybody can print that on their bottle. That's not to say it's not a great oil (Redline makes great synthetics) but they are NOT LL-01 approved.

This is a fine distinction but it must be made.

[r4dr]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

Is that a good thing?

Typically, yes. Just because an oil is -30 or -40 weight doesn't mean they're the exact same viscosity at operating temperatures. This is one of the reasons why "German Castrol" aka the old 0W-30 was so hyped -- it was a thick -30 weight oil, closer to a thin -40 weight oil.

If you look at LL-01 oils, the average operating temp viscosity appears to fall somewhere between a -30 and a -40 weight; they spec 5W-30 oils as well as 0W-40 and 5W-40 oils.

Therefore a thicker -30 weight oil would probably be perfect for these cars, hence why the Redline oil actually works really well in N54 and N55 cars.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by limitdown

I've done UOA only on Redline 5w40, at 5k miles. Aluminum and lead numbers were all well below thresholds. Soon I'll be doing UOA on the Motul xcess 8100 5w40 that's currently in my car.

I ran my Redline 5w30 for 4,511 miles as noted in the UOA below. Both iron and copper increased when compared to Total 5w30, but viscosity remained higher with the Redline.

I have changed again - now using Motul 5w40. I don't see much difference in engine temps. I felt like the car idled a touch smoother with Redline. Curios to see the next UOA to see which is performing better.

What do you all think about the Total (right) compared to Redline (left)? And, what do you expect to see from Motul 5w40 compared to these two -- holding all else reasonably constant?

[BQ Tuning]

Just seeing that told me to keep on using Redline......lol

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by BQ Tuning

Just seeing that told me to keep on using Redline......lol

Doesn't the increase in iron and copper concern you?

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by limitdown

I've done UOA only on Redline 5w40, at 5k miles. Aluminum and lead numbers were all well below thresholds. Soon I'll be doing UOA on the Motul xcess 8100 5w40 that's currently in my car.

Have you done the UOA on Motul 5w40 yet..? It would be interesting to see how that compares the the RL 5w30 I posted yesterday..

FWIW, I am now using Motul Xcess 5w40 and plan to have it tested when I change it.

Not sure if I'll keep using Motul or switch back to Redline.

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

I ran my Redline 5w30 for 4,511 miles as noted in the UOA below. Both iron and copper increased when compared to Total 5w30, but viscosity remained higher with the Redline.

I have changed again - now using Motul 5w40. I don't see much difference in engine temps. I felt like the car idled a touch smoother with Redline. Curios to see the next UOA to see which is performing better.

What do you all think about the Total (right) compared to Redline (left)? And, what do you expect to see from Motul 5w40 compared to these two -- holding all else reasonably constant?

Oils compared are not same league. Not sure (other than your mechanic used it) why you used total 5w30. Its a thinner oil not ll01 nor is it a3/b4 and has low hths. Meaning they are thinner 5w30 meant for lighter applications not n54. Total 0w30 previously elf is correct for n54, not easily available tho. Redline also has correct viscosities for n54. Motul 5w40 is fine too on the thicker side though. Perhaps, Rl is an overkill esp. for your short oci.

[BQ Tuning]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

Doesn't the increase in iron and copper concern you?

I read report in the reverse. Yes it will concern me, however this is first I seen a labs report with that type of report on Redline. There are other Redline report from Black Stone also floating around here.

Here is one to compare with you own

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by BQ Tuning

I read report in the reverse. Yes it will concern me, however this is first I seen a labs report with that type of report on Redline. There are other Redline report from Black Stone also floating around here.

Here is one to compare with you own

Thanks for the point of comparison BuraQ!!!

The wear numbers AND the viscosity numbers on your Redline UOA and mine are both better than the average numbers for a N54, which is good. In fact, at 18PSI, I'm pleased. My only "concern" was wether a slight increase in iron and copper on my car from one UOA to the next was showing that for wear I could be better off with the oil I had previously used. That said, my car was at a dyno and ran dozens of logs when the Redline was in service AND the wear numbers are still below averages AND it didn't shear much at all..

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by flexinator

There was some BS earlier in this thread. Contaminants can make and oil less affective for example if you have fuel contaminants can you change the flashpoint. Coolant Can dilute the additives and lead to premature wear. It's important that oils have enough HTHS values to prevent thinning and shearing at higher temperatures and high pressures. Low enough Nowak scores prevent burn off at the higher temperatures. The long life one approval takes these into account and also ensures longer drain intervals. In Modified BMWs we often times change the oils much more often and rightly so. I would stick to a long life one oil's because I don't know if we can take into account the other factors are required for the engine. If you visit the Lubrizol site you can get an idea of what is required for the specs on various cars. The wording on red lines site is a little concerning instead of saying approved or certified as long life 01 it says suitable or recommended for LL01. And the only one listed is 5w-30. I have decided against using redline for these reasons. LubriMolly has had early burn off issues. Castrol makes options that include the Long life one approval. 0w-30 and 0w-40 are great options but I'd stay away from the 5w-40. Take a look at Bob is the oil guy. There are some well informed oil contributors there. I currently have fresh fill of Castrol oil that I plan to do oil analysis on after 4K miles. It's good to see there's some other BMW oil Fanatics on here!

Have you done the UOA on your Castrol fill as of yet?