[redwildcat17]

I live in Madison Wisconsin so it does get pretty cold here so I want something that won't take forever to get up to temp and I don't track my car, so thinking 5w30 may be the right choice

[Will_460cs]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

I think I chose properly as I went with 5W30 for flow, as my ride has an afrermarket oil cooler to keep oil temp somewhat low in high temperature conditions. As mentioned the other day: "Cruising for several miles at 85 + mph with it 100 degrees out today the oil temp was 215." I've got the high temperature covered, so higher viscosity is unnecessary. There is a reason that when going from the Stage 2 to Stage 3 Dinan tune a larger oil cooler was required. Could it be that some discussion between BMW and Dinan took place? The big money that I spent on Dinan approved stuff in order to maintain my CPO may now finally be paying off in dividends.

As far as low temperature is concerened, the article that Will connected to mentioned cooling two different oils until one still seeped out in a test. The other came out in globs. Could globs, on a momentary basis, cause lubrication starvation and possibly cause bearing wear that over time could eventually lead to a spun bearing? Even the guys that poo pooed my bringing up that possibility can at least consider it.

Two columns need to be put into the sheet: Do you track your car? And by that I do not mean drag race. And: Do you live up north, where temps may be under 20 degrees F?

Oil starvation is primarily the reason for spun bearings generally though high stress (HIGH RPM/HIGH HEAT) and oil pickup problems ( e.g. high g cornering)... 215 F is very low I regularly see 120 degrees c or 248 F under on fast road usage. So your oil cooler is certainly working!

What dos you mean by "two columns need to be added to the sheet?

[Will_460cs]

Originally Posted by redwildcat17

I live in Madison Wisconsin so it does get pretty cold here so I want something that won't take forever to get up to temp and I don't track my car, so thinking 5w30 may be the right choice

Your car will heat up the same regardless of oil weight, the 5w part of the spec covers startup temperature so 0w would give more protection than a 5w at low temp startup.

What matters and is relevant to 30 or 40w is oil temp when hot, tune and driving style, as 40w will offer higher protection than a 30w although the is marginal stuff.. having the right additives i.e. LL SPEC WILL ALSO be of benefit.

OIL analysis is your friend.

[redwildcat17]

On a little bit of a different not would an oil cooler be a bad thing to have in the winter when I'm just daily driving it? I know you want to keep the oil cool but there is such thing as too cool right?

[Ozzie335i]

Originally Posted by Will_460cs

Oil starvation is primarily the reason for spun bearings generally though high stress (HIGH RPM/HIGH HEAT) and oil pickup problems ( e.g. high g cornering)... 215 F is very low I regularly see 120 degrees c or 248 F under on fast road usage. So your oil cooler is certainly working!

What dos you mean by "two columns need to be added to the sheet?

You indirectly gave answers for why I think two columns need to be adied to the sheet. The sheet is on the spun bearing thread. Some good discussion going on that I think you would definitely have something valuable to add. I see 230 once in a while in city traffic, so any fuel or water condensation is dissipated . I'll get my Blackstone back shortly. Until then my opinion is just conjecture, as lwgrenier pointed out.

[Ozzie335i]

Originally Posted by redwildcat17

On a little bit of a different not would an oil cooler be a bad thing to have in the winter when I'm just daily driving it? I know you want to keep the oil cool but there is such thing as too cool right?

Yes. The oil cooler is one thing, but I went with an aftermarket oil thermostat for further cooling. In some cases the ECS one (I think?) opens up so that the cars take a long time to warm up. Guys would swap the stock one back in for cold months. I researched the results here and went with the AD Engineering one that unfortunately is no longer available. People claimed that was the happy medium of cooling, but not to the point where the temps don't get warm enough in winter months. I live in North Tejas, so real cold temp concerns are moot.

[Jnat]

My two cents is over the years I've had several Turbo cars, two Subies, an N54 and now this N55 and they all seem to like 5w-40. What do I mean by like? 5w-40 seems to hold up against the heat of our motors (and the Subies). Almost no oil burn/usage with 5w-40, oil comes out almost as clean as it went in. I've settled into Rotella T6, each of us will have their preference.

[Anthony123]

Originally Posted by redwildcat17

Looking to buy an fcp euro oil change kit, but torn as to weather to do the 5w-30 or 5w-40 luqi moly. I think I want to stick to the oem 5w-30 but have heard of lots of people running 5w-40, what would be the benefits of it?

Thanks for any advice

I usually use 5w30 for my car. The choice of 5w30 or 5w40 depends on the environment temperature in where you live. Some useful information for you here https://www.zoniv.com/5w30-vs-5w40/.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by Anthony123

I usually use 5w30 for my car. The choice of 5w30 or 5w40 depends on the environment temperature in where you live. Some useful information for you here https://www.zoniv.com/5w30-vs-5w40/.

Oh why dig up these stupid oil threads they are rotten. Its like digging up dead bodies from medieval period.

[The Silver Slammer]

If you read the manual, these engines will pretty much take any oil (slightly exaggerating), but really, its not the oil but how often. Don't go too long between changes and don't ever run it low.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by Pladi

Oh why dig up these stupid oil threads they are rotten. Its like digging up dead bodies from medieval period.

The only two posts he made are in dead threads where he shills that website he probably owns or runs ads on.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam

The only two posts he made are in dead threads where he shills that website he probably owns or runs ads on.

Hahahah makes sense.

[juld0zer]

LL04? The additives chosen in LL04 are mainly to deal with not being able to use conventional additives used in petrol engine oils to ensure long DPF service life.
If your oil analysis results are good then this might be the way forward.

BMW petrol engines will require LL04 if fitted with a PPF (low ash, longer particulate filter life). I am yet to see one in my country.

[Will_460cs]

Originally Posted by Anthony123

I usually use 5w30 for my car. The choice of 5w30 or 5w40 depends on the environment temperature in where you live. Some useful information for you here https://www.zoniv.com/5w30-vs-5w40/.

I didn't realise Homer did oil comparisons..

[DiFFv1]

I choose between Liq Molly and Mobil 1 , Asfar as weight ive tried both 5w-30 & 5w-40 the only difference ive noticed is the oil burns a bit on 30 vs 40. Other than that i have no clue what is best other than blackstone testing like the above post.