[Streetlegal13]

Originally Posted by Killca_cze

I would say its all about the same stuff - HPFP. Answers like “hpfp replaced” made me scared in past, “whats going on with my car, if ppl change their hpfps and nothing changed”, problem is, they all buy RMFD hpfps or just used ones and info i got years ago says HPFP and N54 injectors cannot be remanufactured, i didnt believe that, but now, now i believe. I have multi misfires, long crank, lower idle and injection cut out for about 6months, i have replaced LPFP for Walbro535, bypassed ekpm with direct strong wire from battery with wireless switch and 30A relay, replaced FPR unit in left tank side for new OEM one. And now, after 6 months, BOOM FIRE SHOT from exhaust after long cold start and new code lol, 29F2. LPF sensor is waiting in trunk, if nothing, then all injectors get out on paper, connect to rail line, disconnect wires and start the car, will see, if there is some fontain, if yes, one new OEM injector is in trunk also. And if still nothing, then really is time to get new OEM hpfp and its also reason to buy helix overdrive and put there 650? 700hp? with that TD04 turbos sitting in boxes in my room

update? here's my backstory

okay im struggling to find this issue.
08/2009 n54 6Mt 112k dci stock tune
4 WEEKS AGO
I was driving, after idle warm up I get out of my complex so I was driving slow then when I accelerated to about 2.5k, and it accelerated slow, started misfiring, cut power, restarted car, drove home fine. same thing after, this time I went to dutch bros 14 minutes away and did the same thing. once again, after parking and leaving. car was fine. then, It would start, rail pressure would drop to about 800hpa and die. would restart the car and it would either do the same thing or idle and drive fine. only enough, disconnected 2 terminals and reconnected them and it was fine.

MAY 22ND - NOW
went on a business trip for 8 days, came back, drove the car fine for a week, went on a 6hr road trip, otw back 4 hours in, I had no boost pressure, half engine, restarted didn't help, restarted and drove, wasn't fine at first, then it started building pressure and drove fine for a about 20 minutes, then it happened, I stopped at the next stop, ate and drove while it was kinda running rich at about 2k outta boost on CC. next morning it drives fine. do some errands here and there and It wouldn't build boost, cut power and id restart it while its driving in gear and turn it back on (no It doesn't bog, it just idles down) and it could fix the issue but it would over boost so this makes me feel like its a boost solenoid or maybe a weird fuse or relay? but this was really inconsistent so I just kept driving till something more constant happens. now today, it builds boost fine, but its back to the fuel being cut when it idles down. as of my last drive home from the barber shop, which was 14 minutes away from work and it drove okay, I babied it at first and then halfway through it was pulling fine again but it feels and sounds rich. it also overboots and the reason I say that is because the diverter valves sound like they release so much more air. the release is much faster, louder, with a higher pitched whistle. ive also had my diverter valves venting to atmosphere for the past year with no issues.

also, I can't drive it into boost because instead of rising with engine rpms, because rail pressure is idling at 2k, and drops to 4-800kpa if I slowly gradually accelerate
constant codes are
2aaf
29dc
29fc
I think I need to replace my boost solenoids, and or my hpfp and another part. idk. I can't dump 2k rn. and I have a road trip in 7 days 6hrs away so I can see my family before I deploy

the video of me driving is today
ista pics are the codes from today
inpa start and idle is from before I disconnected the battery


Today car drive to work fine, was sitting in a parking lot idling fine, all fuel pressure was good, then I turned it off from a smooth idle, restarted it, and it died

[Missionpoole]

Really hate to be that guy, but this sounds very similar to the issue I’m having. I have yet to start blind replacing things, so bumping this old post to see if any of you other commenters have figured things out? Here’s my story for context: here.

[Jnicole]

Hi
I’ve got the 29F2 fault, been told by a BMW specialist it’s the HPFP. 2012 330i but only done 55k on the clock. So very unlucky it seems. Apparently it’s pressure was only 5.5 bar and should be running 150 bar according to the specialist.

Question is does a n54 HPFP work in a n53, seems to be next to impossible to find a HPFP for a N53 but plenty for a n54/n55. Seen something that it is compatible but want confirmation.

Thanks

James