[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by nsjames

the ESS electrical connctor pops through the valve cover. It's that little rubber round grommet. So you'll be replacing that seal when you pop the cover.
same with the VT motor seal. It requies removal, so replace it.

the kit from FCP appears to be everything you're going to touch uring VC removal.

Also the OE kit is pre-assembled, meaning besides checking that the gasket is perfect as it goes down, all the gaskets are shipped in place already (including the ESS gasket). Worked well for me.

You don't need an OBD2 -- either get a good cable and INPA/ISTA-D or nothing at all (when you're speaking specifically of this job alone). ISTA could help you relearn the Valvetronic position, but Carly nor an OBD2 could help you do that. Most important part of the DIY is using the allen key to wind the Valvetronic full counterclockwise off and clockwise on. That is the physical alignment -- the key relearn process should be done anyway for good measure but will probably won't be needed if you uninstall then reinstall correctly. The software solution for relearning and checking is ISTA.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by macheff03

Will I have to calibrate the valvetronic or no?

It looks like the ESS seal is in that kit, right...

I've heard that you need ISTA on the early models because there was no hex in the rear to wind the motor off the shaft. Double check for that 4mm hex on the back of the motor. If it's there, you won't need anything. If it isn't, you'll need software to put it in service position for removal. I am unfamiliar with the early valve cover, so I cannot say for certain.
maybe efthreeoh will stop in here. IIRC he has a magnesium cover N52.

Originally Posted by macheff03

Also- how about this for the oil filter housing gasket...

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...11428637821kt1

that's fine. A ratchting e10 wrench is highly recommended, so you don't have to dick with the coolant hose connection. If you think it's going to be a problem, go ahead and order the metal replacement flange to replace the plastic bit.

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Also the OE kit is pre-assembled, meaning besides checking that the gasket is perfect as it goes down, all the gaskets are shipped in place already (including the ESS gasket). Worked well for me.

You don't need an OBD2 -- either get a good cable and INPA/ISTA-D or nothing at all (when you're speaking specifically of this job alone). ISTA could help you relearn the Valvetronic position, but Carly nor an OBD2 could help you do that. Most important part of the DIY is using the allen key to wind the Valvetronic full counterclockwise off and clockwise on. That is the physical alignment -- the key relearn process should be done anyway for good measure but will probably won't be needed if you uninstall then reinstall correctly. The software solution for relearning and checking is ISTA.

he's not replacing the whole cover, he's got the metal one.

[macheff03]

ok so as it stands I will be purchasing

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...11127581215kt1 -Valve cover gasket

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...11428637821kt1 -Oil filter housing gasket

for the PCV hose is this what your talking about... https://bit.ly/2Um1w0i

as for the rachets, I have a set but should also get an e10 wrench? and what metal flange are you talking about nsjames?

[k04]

You'll definitely want to invest in an Etorx set. To remove some of the items before you can get to the valve cover you will need I believe an E16 and E18. I'd just get a set. E10 is needed for the OFHG.

As for the PCV hose, the one you listed is not what we're referring to. 11157522931 is the correct part number. You may or may not need it. Just be very gentle when removing that connection. You can always return it if not needed. I went with Amazon in that scenario and got the Dorman branded hose. Ultimately I replaced the whole PCV system as mine was original.

I also have an E90 N52 (2006) and can verify the magnesium cover has the Valvetronic motor that uses and can be wound with the 4mm hex.

[nsjames]

do you own E torx sockets and wrenches? you need them. Get yourself a decent set of regular torx bits too.
and make sure that whatever set of e torx sockets you buy goes up to E20(?). It's E20 or 22, it's the big bolt that holds the strut to firewall braces on. It's larger than your normal e torx socket set goes up to.

but specifically passed the normal e torx sockets, buy an E10/E12 gear wrench.

Go out to your car, look at the OFH, look at it's 7 oclock. See that coolant hose and plastic flange going into the block?
There's a e10 bolt right next to it that needs removing for the OFHG job. Buy the wrench or you have to remove that fitting to get the bolt out with a socket and ratchet. FCP carries the aluminum replacement piece to clamp that rubber hose to, it's half the cost of the BMW hose assembly.
I do not have a part number.

I am not familiar enough with the 06 and it's external PCV system to tell you which parts are most likely to break, just know that when you start messing about with the valve cover, chances are very high that PCV components are going to not survive. It's all old, brittle heat cycled plastic.

My PCV system is currently hooked to the manifold with a 3/4 hydraulic oil return hose.
because that's what the local hydraulic shop had in stock for an oil resistant hose that fit the plastic fittings when mine crumbled.
Nothing wrong with subbing it to rubber, as long as it's a proper oil resistant hose. Heater hose isn't gonna cut it there.

Pelican Parts has an excellent step by step DIY, but it shows the plastic cover. The steps to actually get to the cover are going to be the same, and the instalation of the VT and ESS gaskets are going to be near identical, so go check out the photos.
IIRC they also have an illustrated DIY to the OFHG as well.

[macheff03]

Originally Posted by k04

You'll definitely want to invest in an Etorx set. To remove some of the items before you can get to the valve cover you will need I believe an E16 and E18. I'd just get a set. E10 is needed for the OFHG.

As for the PCV hose, the one you listed is not what we're referring to. 11157522931 is the correct part number. You may or may not need it. Just be very gentle when removing that connection. You can always return it if not needed. I went with Amazon in that scenario and got the Dorman branded hose. Ultimately I replaced the whole PCV system as mine was original.

I also have an E90 N52 (2006) and can verify the magnesium cover has the Valvetronic motor that uses and can be wound with the 4mm hex.

Do i need the whole set or just the hose?

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-917-12...ype=automotive

[k04]

Just the hose is probably fine. I went ahead and changed my while PCV system since the vehicle has 150k miles.

[macheff03]

I do not have e torx sockets but will buy some but I do have torx bits.

As for the 4mm hex just to clarify, if I have it, that means no calibration?

Here is a etorx set i found, looks like it has all the correct ones: https://www.amazon.com/MAXPOWER-9-Pi...-1-spons&psc=1 (Might get the more expensive one that goes to e24)

[k04]

That set is more than sufficient. E18 is the largest you will need to do the DIY. Get a solid Torx set, Etorx set, Hex set, swivel adapters/extension set.

The hex bit allows you to properly remove the motor.

[macheff03]

Ok so

ETorx set: https://www.amazon.com/MAXPOWER-9-Pi...-1-spons&psc=1

Swivel Socket: https://www.amazon.com/Bastex-Impact...-2-spons&psc=1 (I imagine these work fine...)

Already have torx bits

Already have hex sockets

Nsjames also said I need wrenches which i assume I have but if i have these torx and hex sets do i still need them?

[macheff03]

Just for reference here is a spreadsheet of the parts I plan to use- if there is anything i'm missing, or something i dont need let me know

Prices included too

Much better then the $2,000 the BMW dealer quoted

[k04]

I had a set of ratcheting wrenches. I may have used one for the back bolt on the oil filtering housing. Besides that you should be good to go.

[ctuna]

Be sure its a torque wrench and a torque wrench with a
low range as the torque spec is really low for the Valve Cover
gasket. 9nm as suggested in the following link is not a lot.
mechanical torque wrenchs come in three basic ranges.

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/n51-n52n-va...et-replacement

or
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...prings/5bjR3oo

7nm + 90 degrees

[macheff03]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Be sure its a torque wrench and a torque wrench with a
low range as the torque spec is really low for the Valve Cover
gasket. 9nm as suggested in the following link is not a lot.
mechanical torque wrenchs come in three basic ranges.

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/n51-n52n-va...et-replacement

or
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...prings/5bjR3oo

7nm + 90 degrees

I would assume my socket set has one - if not I will buy one.

[macheff03]

Originally Posted by k04

I had a set of ratcheting wrenches. I may have used one for the back bolt on the oil filtering housing. Besides that you should be good to go.

K04 -
Since you did it on a 06 is there a guide you used that is 06 specific? Some people said there are differences in the 06 e90s and later e90 models.

I assume this set of racheting wrenches are ok: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001M0O27Y..._XoNFCb5WNST5C

[macheff03]

Alright so I have a list together of everything I need to buy
Everything look right?

I already have a hex socket set and normal torch bits.

[Efthreeoh]

I just want to chime in for a sec. The Dealership said the VCG was leaking, ok, but did you visually check for yourself it is leaking, and how bad? Do you smell burned oil outside of the car or through the HVAC system? I ask, because I have a 2006 325i as well and my VCG was not leaking even past 300,000. I've done the VCG job because I replaced the ESS after I got a code. I've been wrenching on BMW three series cars for over 30 years and have a lot of DIY experience. While you say you are handy, you also say you don't have much experience with automobiles. I'd just caution you, removal of the valve cover on the N52 is not a task for the novice auto DIY'er. The hardest parts are removing the ESS seal on the magnesium valve cover, and refitting the valve cover with the new gasket in place. It takes fanangling to get the cover back down and seated on the head. And I'll bet you break the CCV hose.

My other advice is use a gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket, and let it get tacky before you place the gasket on the cover. A light skin coat is all that is needed. I cut the inner race of the ESS seal and peeled it out. You can bang it out with a socket, but magnesium is a very brittle metal and there is risk of cracking the cover if you try to bang the ESS seal. I also highly recommend using a BMW scan tool to set the limits of the Valvetronic motor prior to startup.

Also, you are dealing with aluminum bolts, so they don't need a lot of torque. I've found that novice DIY'ers tend to torque the shit out of bolts because they, for some reason, think they are working on a paint shaker or something. When the bolt seats and stops turning, it is nearly torqued correctly. The torque merely sets the stretch of the bolt.

Kudos for attempting it. Good luck with the repair.

[k04]

Originally Posted by macheff03

K04 -
Since you did it on a 06 is there a guide you used that is 06 specific? Some people said there are differences in the 06 e90s and later e90 models.

I assume this set of racheting wrenches are ok: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001M0O27Y..._XoNFCb5WNST5C

They are very similar as for the removal process. The magnesium cover has a different style gasket, which is metal based. Make sure you're getting the correct gasket as they do differ. FCPeuro is very accurate when you put your vehicle info in.

Those will do. I honestly used one for the OFHG.

As someone mentioned, I'd forgo using a torque wrench on these fragile aluminum bolts. Unless you have a very accurate wrench with low torque.

[ryan stewart]

Originally Posted by k04

I had a set of ratcheting wrenches. I may have used one for the back bolt on the oil filtering housing. Besides that you should be good to go.

I did that for removing the OFH without removing that brittle hose or the intake plenum. Just took FOREVER because I could only move it a few MM at a time but easier than dealing with the rest.

[ryan stewart]

Originally Posted by nsjames

if you're not messing with the ESS, the calibration isn't really anything to worry about.

the motor is a simple brushed DC motor with a worm drive. The ESS is what tells the DME the ES position and creates the feedback loop for the DME to control the shaft position.

if you don't remove or change the ESS, then technically the ESS information for the hard stops doesn't change.

thought I will say, if your ESS is original, it's probably worth shoving a new one in there.
Mine started to fail at 135K miles or so with cold starting problems.

This is a good point. Mine failed about 20k later and shorted out the relay when it did. The ONLY time ever my car stranded me (as it went into a hard limp mode and would only go 10mph).

[macheff03]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I just want to chime in for a sec. The Dealership said the VCG was leaking, ok, but did you visually check for yourself it is leaking, and how bad? Do you smell burned oil outside of the car or through the HVAC system? I ask, because I have a 2006 325i as well and my VCG was not leaking even past 300,000. I've done the VCG job because I replaced the ESS after I got a code. I've been wrenching on BMW three series cars for over 30 years and have a lot of DIY experience. While you say you are handy, you also say you don't have much experience with automobiles. I'd just caution you, removal of the valve cover on the N52 is not a task for the novice auto DIY'er. The hardest parts are removing the ESS seal on the magnesium valve cover, and refitting the valve cover with the new gasket in place. It takes fanangling to get the cover back down and seated on the head. And I'll bet you break the CCV hose.

My other advice is use a gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket, and let it get tacky before you place the gasket on the cover. A light skin coat is all that is needed. I cut the inner race of the ESS seal and peeled it out. You can bang it out with a socket, but magnesium is a very brittle metal and there is risk of cracking the cover if you try to bang the ESS seal. I also highly recommend using a BMW scan tool to set the limits of the Valvetronic motor prior to startup.

Kudos for attempting it. Good luck with the repair.

Thanks for the response -

First, yes I do have a leak, it is noticeable on the engine as well as the dropping oil level. The smell is not really there but the dropping oil level is a sure sign as well as the coat of oil in the engine bay.

Do I have the right parts? All bolts included?

Also would the diy guides posted on some other posts work? There was one by FCP a few posts up that looked like a good one to refer too.

Would a bimmergeeks coder work?

I’ll look into gasket sealers

Thanks again for your info

[macheff03]

Originally Posted by k04

They are very similar as for the removal process. The magnesium cover has a different style gasket, which is metal based. Make sure you're getting the correct gasket as they do differ. FCPeuro is very accurate when you put your vehicle info in.

Those will do. I honestly used one for the OFHG.

As someone mentioned, I'd forgo using a torque wrench on these fragile aluminum bolts. Unless you have a very accurate wrench with low torque.

Ok so if I don’t use a torque wrench should I just use a normal wrench or low torque ...