[Andystobbs]

Hi, I know I promised pictures of my casings and the set up to strip the spindles etc.

I haven't actually had chance to do this repair yet. About a week after posting last time the HP pump (diesel) failed and I got totally side tracked replacing all the parts required for that repair.

Since then I've put the car up for sale, then decided to keep it. So I've been living with only the tailgate glass or a very stiff tailgate since.

I will get around to it, and get all the promised info and pictures. I promise. 🙂

[Lme90]

Originally Posted by Andystobbs

Hi, I know I promised pictures of my casings and the set up to strip the spindles etc.

I haven't actually had chance to do this repair yet. About a week after posting last time the HP pump (diesel) failed and I got totally side tracked replacing all the parts required for that repair.

Since then I've put the car up for sale, then decided to keep it. So I've been living with only the tailgate glass or a very stiff tailgate since.

I will get around to it, and get all the promised info and pictures. I promise. 🙂

Hope yo get it fix, I've been waiting to try this to my e91. Would be awesome.

[Mike K]

Yes most curious indeed..

[Andystobbs]

Hi guys. A year on I've finally got around to getting back into fixing my defective drive motor.

Actually it transpires I have two defective motors, the one that I thought was ok has suffered moisture damage, I don't have enough parts at hand to repair both. But have taken some pictures, and will get more if people want specifics.

[Andystobbs]

Hopefully the picture order will match this explanation.
Firstly, the purists and hobbyists will have to excuse the state of my bench, it is in a perpetual state of disarray. I could lie and say I'm having a messy day but its just always messy. I usually clear it at Christmas when the garage is closed.

Picture 1, the tool I made for compressing the spindle. Mine is a 16mm studding. It needs excess length compared to the spindle because of how compressed the spring is, even at max extension.

Picture 2, starting to take the outer tube back and exposing the inner.

Picture 3, inner tube clamp in place, this I made by boring a piece of plate to the OD of the spindle tube, then halving the plate so it can be pinched in the vice.

The plastic end that is screwed (and glued) onto the spindle end is impossible to get off and save. I put a saw cut in the plastic longwise, then it sheared the end off the aluminium spindle tube anyway. That doesn't matter the tube needs shortening anyway.

Picture 4, disassembled showing spring length, stainless washer that the top of the spring bears against the plastic outer tube with.

Picture 5, make a saw cut around the lower tube about 40-45mm down from the taper.
I have not yet been successful in removing the whole length of lower tube without wrecking the tube, or the motor wires. Cutting it as so leaves enough length to reuse.

Picture 6, having sawn through the tube as per picture 5, cut the remaining length longwise with a Stanley knife and peel off to reveal the inner holder. Break the plastic tabs and remove the halves.

Picture 7, shows the motor with attached gearbox, a rubber damper (you'll have to ditch this for any chance of fitting to an E91) and the spindle with attached bearing, seal, thrust bearing etc.

Picture 8, shows the shortened spindle tube. Rethreaded M16

Picture 9, showsmy end cap, a steel top hat, internally M16 threaded, projecting M6 thread to the end with the rod eye screwed on then welded.

Picture 10, is my motor body. The main body is a length of 35mm OD alu tube with a nominal 2mm wall. At the butt end it was bored (to make truly round) and a machined steel top hat pressed in. The top hat was finished to the outside with a projecting M6 thread, with the rod eye screwed on then welded in place. The steel top hat is a 2 thou press fit in the alu tube and incorporates 2 anular grooves externally which I filled with loctite.
The business end of the alu tube was bored again and the bearing carrier is a more moderate press fit in here. More like a 0.5thou fit, backed up by loctite and is a much longer section in contact. I will need to get additional pictures of the bearing carrier as its quite detailed.

[Pompolo]

Hello everybody!

If somebody can help m Ie would be happy

One of my friend’s E61 tailgate is slam when closing. I already did some coding on E70 hkl kinematik to close it softer and they are working fine. In e61 where can I code and how can I code to close it is softly?

[Bmw320De91]

Originally Posted by Andystobbs

After 13 months of chipping away at this project I've finally got all the wrinkles ironed out and a reliable system!

The noise at the end is the soft close relaxing.

Hi!

I just saw your post and video about installing the electric opening and closing feature for the trunk on your BMW. It looks fantastic, and I’m really interested in doing the same upgrade on my bmw e90 320D 2011! Could you share some more details about the project?

If possible, I’d really appreciate it if you could send me a PM with more information on the parts you used, installation process, and any tips you might have. Thanks a lot in advance!

Best regards,
Johannes

[codeterrorist]

I was hoping that something like this exists for E90, so I went looking and found this kit https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006190530932.html

I contacted them and asked they send me the installation document for my E90, they replied and said the product is not available. Yet it's still up...so....