[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

Really? I boil the BMW fluid very quickly. I can't imagine shims doing that much to offset temps. Nice DIY BTW.

Well, look at this vid that I took about how well titanium shims work...
It also helps when your running 6 pot/4 pot calipers instead of the single Pots.

[Wai328]

Nice DIY

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by Wai328

Nice DIY

Thanks man!
I'm really happy I installed these lines.

[scollins]

UPS is really letting me down lately. Come on, "Adverse Weather Conditions"? It is 44 degrees and raining in Seattle at the moment!! How the hell is that "adverse"???

[Bubbles]

Interesting vid. You want to make me some

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

Well, look at this vid that I took about how well titanium shims work...
It also helps when your running 6 pot/4 pot calipers instead of the single Pots.

[Azrielsc]

Hi Mr.5, just wondering where or how u get those titanium shims?

Thanks!

[uberschnell]

Mr. 5, you've done just about every mod possible, sometimes 3x's. When are you gonna go for the most important one, a LSD?

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by Magna3

Mr. 5, you've done just about every mod possible, sometimes 3x's. When are you gonna go for the most important one, a LSD?

haha!
I'll go for that when I either learn how to make one myself or find one for dirt cheap!!
I'm way too cheap to spend that amount of money!

[jeguth1s]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

Give yourself plenty of time on this one, it's not as easy as it looks!

+1 for this. The shop couldn't get mine off because of rust. Rear sub would have to be dropped. Anybody want to buy a set of midlines?

[flinchy]

just did the middle lines myself

it's a LOT HARDER than this DIY makes it sound

there's barely enough room to get a man sized hand in (if you have child hands, you're lucky!), and the subframe+body are so close together, there's not QUITE enough room to get a full swing of your (even smallish, like mine) flare spanner.

once the top is off though, the bottom is super easy.

[andrey_gta]

Originally Posted by flinchy

just did the middle lines myself

it's a LOT HARDER than this DIY makes it sound

there's barely enough room to get a man sized hand in (if you have child hands, you're lucky!), and the subframe+body are so close together, there's not QUITE enough room to get a full swing of your (even smallish, like mine) flare spanner.

once the top is off though, the bottom is super easy.

Would doing this at the same time as subframe drop & bushes be easier?

[flinchy]

Originally Posted by andrey_gta

Would doing this at the same time as subframe drop & bushes be easier?

absolutely

the top part of the middle lines is hard to access because it's between the subframe and the body

if the subframe wasn't there, it'd be a 60-120 second job with a flare nut spanner, rather than 20-30 minute (first time) minimum.

Now that i've done it once, personally it's a bit faster, but there's only so much speed you can put into a shifting spanner + 1/3 turns over and over haha

[dcaron9999]

Yeah ... I can confirm that attaching the top of the middle lines are a royal PITA. Barely any room. I wanted to avoid loosening/dropping the subframe. I also did not feal like untorquing the four aluminium RSFB stretch bolts, that are one-time use.

I found that moving that white hard plastic tubing (fuel line???) of the way really helped with the clearance. What I did is wedge a small block of wood underneath between the chassis and the white tubing.

It must have taken 30-40 "1/8 turns" with my 11 mm wrench to get the top nuts loosened. The wrench has to be flipped each time to provide more amplitude.

Spraying lots of loosenut liquid on the nuts prior to attacking the job also helped, as some rust had developped on the outer nut.

Anyhow, just wanted to say that this is possible, even with big hands - just need a lot of patience and care...

[Tom Droze]

I installed SS brake lines recently and this 11 MM flex flare nut wrench really helped on the two mid brake lines.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o03_s00

[dcaron9999]

Id like to add that it makes sense to inspect every couplings twice. After installation, bleeding, and road test, I discovered a small leak on one of mid lines at the top. This must have injected air into my brake lines.

After opening the brake lines, and rebuilding my four calipers (RB SS pistons, seals, high temp dust boots), I must have bled my system at least 7-8 times (two cycles at a time, followed by a road test with a couple of high speed hard braking on an empty road). Kept getting a low brake pedal, and bubbles out of my calipers.

Braking now feals a lot more confident on the street, but will confirm at the track this week. There is no longer a trace of sticky pistons and squeaking pads. Brake rotors are more shiny due to strong and even pressure exerted by pistons on the brake pads...

[feuer]

Originally Posted by dcaron9999

Id like to add that it makes sense to inspect every couplings twice. After installation, bleeding, and road test, I discovered a small leak on one of mid lines at the top. This must have injected air into my brake lines.

small derbies can cause this. always clean the couplings really good before re-attaching.