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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Preping 335i for Track worthyness - IAT/Cooling



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      08-02-2010, 09:13 PM   #23
dlbrooks18
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maybe a dumb question, but would it help if you removed your hood at the track?..
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      08-02-2010, 09:14 PM   #24
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Do Evos, Neons and Subarus have these heat decay problems as well? I would expect better from BMW...
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      08-02-2010, 09:38 PM   #25
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Just to put this out there first I've been a track day instructor for 10 years and track my car quite a bit. I'm also in the process of doing all the mods Andrew mentioned.

I have a few suggestions that will make your cars last a little longer on the track. and if your driving is up to snuff it wont hurt your speed all that much.

first turn the boost down like 12-13 on colder days 15 sometimes works

second short shift. our cars have tuns of torque and aren't happy running high RPM
if you going through corner with the RPM over 6000 try the next gear up.

third if your oil temps get over 260-270 try taking a few laps at least a gear or two higher. its good practice for your driving with out relying on the power to make up for mistakes.
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      08-02-2010, 09:42 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWeber View Post
Just to put this out there first I've been a track day instructor for 10 years and track my car quite a bit. I'm also in the process of doing all the mods Andrew mentioned.

I have a few suggestions that will make your cars last a little longer on the track. and if your driving is up to snuff it wont hurt your speed all that much.

first turn the boost down like 12-13 on colder days 15 sometimes works

second short shift. our cars have tuns of torque and aren't happy running high RPM
if you going through corner with the RPM over 6000 try the next gear up.

third if your oil temps get over 260-270 try taking a few laps at least a gear or two higher. its good practice for your driving with out relying on the power to make up for mistakes.
Actually thats exactly what i did this weekend. Often times i just sat in 4th gear since i was working on my turn ins anyways. I do try to shift up at 6000-6200 from 3 to 4th however and my boost was set to 10psi .
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      08-02-2010, 09:52 PM   #27
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well I do have to say I don't think I've tracked this car in temps above 90 or so. sounds like time for a big radiator and extra oil cooler.
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      08-02-2010, 11:34 PM   #28
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Me too

I was at Auto Club Speedway in Fontana yesterday with M3 suspension and Koni yellows just installed last week. Ambient was 90, engine 270-280. Procede was on map 2 FW21. Just a drop in. This gets me autotuned boost of about 13.5 around town, but at the track it dropped to 11. Need more power as the GTR and Alpina B7 were pulling away on the straights. Stock M3's were no problem. Not keen on meth tanks and lines and fire hazard. Should we just invest in some 100 octane next time?
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      08-03-2010, 06:34 PM   #29
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Hard to believe a 50K "sports coupe / sedan" has these problems.

The Evos run all day...without overheating
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      08-03-2010, 07:15 PM   #30
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Similiar to BMWeber, I've been teaching for 15 years (raced & taught superbikes, karts and cars in that time-see sig). I'm certified/teach for Ferrari, BMW, Porsche (PCA), Audi, Subaru and a former F1 driver in his private schools. Earlier this year I taught a course during one of the Indy/IRL races on the track, and just got back from a 3 day national kart race. I've got 40 track days on my car, just in the last 3 months I've gone through 2 sets of Brembo race pads, 1 set of rotors, a set of PS2's (M3 rims) and a set of Sport Cups (Volks). Enough said.

See the mods in my sig. Even with 2 OC's, FMIC, Meth (tried 75-50%), etc., it overheats. The only thing I haven't changed is the rad, but in my car water stays relatively cool at 115C, it's the oil that hits 140C/280F within about 3 laps. Before the mods I would hit high temp limp mode in about 4 laps.

With all the mods, plus dropping max boost to about 12psi, I can now usually make a 20min session with some cooling laps about half way through; which is unfortunate when you've been hunting down that GT3 or Z06 and passed him a lap or 2 before, then have to give it back.

At the end of the day BMW didn't design it to be a track car. A stock M3 will run laps all day long without a problem. I love my 335, wouldn't change, but this does seem to be it's Achille's heel.
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      08-03-2010, 07:18 PM   #31
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No way it can be a summertime track car - but I had 8 20 min sessions on a track in Tex in late oct. Temps never got above 265 . Was a JB3 v1 at that time.
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      08-03-2010, 08:34 PM   #32
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Club Racer moving BTUs with the Dinan oil cooler

FWIW, I took a look at this 135i at the BMW CCA 40th anniversary party for the Los Angeles chapter. I recall this car's mods being just a Dinan oil cooler and Dinan ECU flash. The was running a stock Radiator. I have seen this car run at BMW Club race (~30 minutes) and it does not appear to suffer from any cooling problems. I might add that driver / car combo is very fast. Ralph Warren, driver, has set a few track (HS CLASS) records in this car.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=281136

Last edited by Gobynetwork; 08-03-2010 at 08:48 PM..
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      08-03-2010, 09:20 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironring Racing View Post
Similiar to BMWeber, I've been teaching for 15 years (raced & taught superbikes, karts and cars in that time-see sig). I'm certified/teach for Ferrari, BMW, Porsche (PCA), Audi, Subaru and a former F1 driver in his private schools. Earlier this year I taught a course during one of the Indy/IRL races on the track, and just got back from a 3 day national kart race. I've got 40 track days on my car, just in the last 3 months I've gone through 2 sets of Brembo race pads, 1 set of rotors, a set of PS2's (M3 rims) and a set of Sport Cups (Volks). Enough said.

See the mods in my sig. Even with 2 OC's, FMIC, Meth (tried 75-50%), etc., it overheats. The only thing I haven't changed is the rad, but in my car water stays relatively cool at 115C, it's the oil that hits 140C/280F within about 3 laps. Before the mods I would hit high temp limp mode in about 4 laps.

With all the mods, plus dropping max boost to about 12psi, I can now usually make a 20min session with some cooling laps about half way through; which is unfortunate when you've been hunting down that GT3 or Z06 and passed him a lap or 2 before, then have to give it back.

At the end of the day BMW didn't design it to be a track car. A stock M3 will run laps all day long without a problem. I love my 335, wouldn't change, but this does seem to be it's Achille's heel.
wow... even with 2 oil coolers you're hitting 280F? Im just wondering how Berk's 135i and Harolds 335i handle it out there. I guess since theyre time attack cars they only need to hold up for a few laps?
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      08-03-2010, 09:21 PM   #34
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hood vents!!
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      08-03-2010, 09:26 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1000 View Post
This is where I think the M3 really distances itself from our straight line warriors... I believe an additional oil cooler and higher volume radiator might help but I am not sure if it has been documented at the track.

I wonder where stock boost would go at temps of 290 (without the Procede...)
+1 I was there with an E46 m3 and had absolutely no heat issues. I was extremely jealous of OP's car though as the M3 wasn't mine and I'm looking into getting a 335.
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      08-03-2010, 10:15 PM   #36
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very nice information!
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      08-03-2010, 10:36 PM   #37
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I really hate the sounds of this thread... Such an awesome car on paper with tons of potential, but this is a major short-coming.
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      08-04-2010, 03:19 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironring Racing View Post
The only thing I haven't changed is the rad, but in my car water stays relatively cool at 115C, it's the oil that hits 140C/280F within about 3 laps. Before the mods I would hit high temp limp mode in about 4 laps.
115 C is too high. Try a better radiator and you will see a decrease of your oil temps as well.
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      08-04-2010, 07:28 AM   #39
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Wouldn't the BMW OEM Power Kit with its additional cooling elements help? I suppose they don't interfere with the AR secondary oil cooler.
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      08-04-2010, 11:26 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autobahn335i View Post
Wouldn't the BMW OEM Power Kit with its additional cooling elements help? I suppose they don't interfere with the AR secondary oil cooler.
Sure. But the bigger fan included in the Performance Power Kit will not work without the appropriate PPK-Software...
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      08-04-2010, 12:26 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu View Post
hood vents!!
Check, got those too in the Vorsteiner hood.

Yes, it does make a great time attack car, as you're only doing a couple laps.

As to the Dinan 135, from what I've seen, and several threads on here, the Dinan cuts boost very quickly as heat builds. Although it keeps it from limp mode, you're back to stock power levels very quickly with the Dinan flash.

Rad wouldn't help much, it's oil temps that are the problem. Yes, cooler water would help a bit on the oil side, but it's like pouring water on your head while your ass is on fire, close, but not close enough.

As a qualifier, our local track has a 1/2 mile straight, and a 1/4 mile back straight, with almost all high speed corners. It's a total horsepower track, hell on brakes, tires, and engines.

On a smaller track with shorter straights the car would run cooler, eat less rubber and use less brake material.
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      08-04-2010, 12:49 PM   #42
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just wondering, is there any reason why you cant run both the VK oilcooler and the AR one at the same time ?
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      08-04-2010, 01:19 PM   #43
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I'm sure there is a reason why BMW choosed to update the water cooling instead of the oil cooling with the Performance Power Kit.
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      08-04-2010, 02:09 PM   #44
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Btw... does anyone know what happened to VK oil coolers? they closed down their promo posts
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