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      07-10-2013, 12:49 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
Maybe you should have your dad read this thread.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641323
LO fcuking L. Saw this and quit reading because it couldn't get any better from here.
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      07-10-2013, 12:52 PM   #24
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o how's this list so far...

JL Audio 10" Sub: 10W7AE-3
No comment but you need to amp it.
100KRS 4″ K2 2-WAY (x2) - Front door replacement speakers.
You might also consider Morels if you don't have a coupe or a set of Jehnerts . . I believe the Jehnsrts are a direct fit and the set
has both under seats and doors otherwise have You will need speaker adapters. The BMW front door tweeter pods are relatively cheap at least in the US the run about 37 bucks a side.
Thats a good choice for an amp they also now make a xd 800/8 don't
spend a lot on rear speakers if anything. The possibilty here is you bridge 2 channels for the sub. But also we don't know if it fits in the stock location the way the xd600/6 does. They also have a xd 1000/5 now.

Is this the cleansweep i need JL Audio: CL441dsp ?
Yes, the other approach it to use and MS-8 which is a processor with
8 channels of head unit power . Also used in combination with and amp
or if your head unit is capable of reprogramming you can avoid the cleansweep and go directly to a JL amp .

Also Harness Harness Harness.
(preferably with factory connectors where needed.)
Speaker Adapter's if needed
Power Wire kit with fuse or fuses.
Amp mount and mounting hardware.

Last edited by ctuna; 07-10-2013 at 01:41 PM..
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      07-10-2013, 06:51 PM   #25
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Contact Technic for the harness. I think he has speaker adapters if buy his kit. If you buy the Jenhert flatline kit, you won't need speaker adaptors because the kit comes with them. (For the doors and under seat woofers)
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      07-11-2013, 10:04 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunmans View Post
Contact Technic for the harness. I think he has speaker adapters if buy his kit. If you buy the Jenhert flatline kit, you won't need speaker adaptors because the kit comes with them. (For the doors and under seat woofers)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
o how's this list so far...

JL Audio 10" Sub: 10W7AE-3
No comment but you need to amp it.
100KRS 4″ K2 2-WAY (x2) - Front door replacement speakers.
You might also consider Morels if you don't have a coupe or a set of Jehnerts . . I believe the Jehnsrts are a direct fit and the set
has both under seats and doors otherwise have You will need speaker adapters. The BMW front door tweeter pods are relatively cheap at least in the US the run about 37 bucks a side.
Thats a good choice for an amp they also now make a xd 800/8 don't
spend a lot on rear speakers if anything. The possibilty here is you bridge 2 channels for the sub. But also we don't know if it fits in the stock location the way the xd600/6 does. They also have a xd 1000/5 now.

Is this the cleansweep i need JL Audio: CL441dsp ?
Yes, the other approach it to use and MS-8 which is a processor with
8 channels of head unit power . Also used in combination with and amp
or if your head unit is capable of reprogramming you can avoid the cleansweep and go directly to a JL amp .

Also Harness Harness Harness.
(preferably with factory connectors where needed.)
Speaker Adapter's if needed
Power Wire kit with fuse or fuses.
Amp mount and mounting hardware.
Thanks guys, so i'll contact Technic about the harness and adaptors..

Here is my list again haha

Technic Harness + adapters
JL Audio Cleansweep - CL441dsp
Door tweeter holders from BMW
Front door + tweeters 100KRS 4″ K2 2-WAY (x2)
Amp - XD600/6 ??
Under seat subs (mid-bass) could you recommend one?
JL Audio 10" Sub: 10W7AE-3
Amp for sub in boot - would appreciate a recommendation.
Back speakers (maybe)
Centre speaker (maybe)

I have a coupe btw
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      07-11-2013, 10:11 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LEVENDIZ View Post
Thanks guys, so i'll contact Technic about the harness and adaptors..

Here is my list again haha

Technic Harness + adapters
JL Audio Cleansweep - CL441dsp
Door tweeter holders from BMW
Front door + tweeters 100KRS 4″ K2 2-WAY (x2)
Amp - XD600/6 ??
Under seat subs (mid-bass) could you recommend one?
JL Audio 10" Sub: 10W7AE-3
Amp for sub in boot - would appreciate a recommendation.
Back speakers (maybe)
Centre speaker (maybe)

I have a coupe btw
I've heard good thinks about Kickers for the mid-bass drivers.

If you bridge your door and rear speakers to 2 channels, use 2 channels for mid-bass, you could bridge the last 2 channels for your sub on the JL 600/6.

This way you could potentially get away with using a single amp. Hopefully bridging 2 channels of the JL is enough to power your sub. Might not be, so I'd still be prepared to have a dedicated amp for that.
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      07-11-2013, 10:14 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali-323i View Post
I've heard good thinks about Kickers for the mid-bass drivers.

If you bridge your door and rear speakers to 2 channels, use 2 channels for mid-bass, you could bridge the last 2 channels for your sub on the JL 600/6.

This way you could potentially get away with using a single amp. Hopefully bridging 2 channels of the JL is enough to power your sub. Might not be, so I'd still be prepared to have a dedicated amp for that.
I'd prefer a dedicated amp for my sub. I'll check out kickers now What amp could i dedicate to the sub?
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      07-11-2013, 10:16 AM   #29
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Maybe find a JL monoblock amp. Try to match the power of the amp to the sub.
A 10W7 might be too much unless you really just want the most power you can get. 10W3 might be good, and easier to find a matching amp since you only need 300-500W instead of 1000W.

Do others have an opinion on this?
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      07-11-2013, 10:33 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali-323i View Post
Maybe find a JL monoblock amp. Try to match the power of the amp to the sub.
A 10W7 might be too much unless you really just want the most power you can get. 10W3 might be good, and easier to find a matching amp since you only need 300-500W instead of 1000W.

Do others have an opinion on this?
I think i'd prefer the 10w7, btw.. if i bridge my door and rear speakers to 2 channels, use 2 channels for mid-bass, where would my tweeters go still leaving room for a sub? unless when you say door speakers you mean the door plus tweeters?
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      07-11-2013, 10:35 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LEVENDIZ View Post
if i bridge my door and rear speakers to 2 channels, use 2 channels for mid-bass, where would my tweeters go still leaving room for a sub? unless when you say door speakers you mean the door plus tweeters?
your door speakers are a component set, designed to act as a single channel. The feed goes from your amp to the crossover as a single channel (crossover is included with the component speaker set), then the crossover feeds the 4" driver and tweeter separately, filtering out the mids and the highs for each speaker to play.

Hope that helps.
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      07-11-2013, 10:42 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali-323i View Post
your door speakers are a component set, designed to act as a single channel. The feed goes from your amp to the crossover as a single channel (crossover is included with the component speaker set), then the crossover feeds the 4" driver and tweeter separately, filtering out the mids and the highs for each speaker to play.

Hope that helps.
Helps a lot, completely understand now haha. So i can have

Front/back - 2 channels
Mid-bass - 2 channels
and have 2 channels left worth 100 watt each.
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      07-11-2013, 10:49 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LEVENDIZ View Post
Helps a lot, completely understand now haha. So i can have

Front/back - 2 channels
Mid-bass - 2 channels
and have 2 channels left worth 100 watt each.
Exactly, you could end up using it as a 5-channel amp though, and bridge the last 2 channels on the amp to a single channel for a sub.

But since you'd prefer to amp the sub separately, I'd not bridge the front / backs together unless you have a specific use for the other 2 channels. Might as well use all 6 channels if they're available. It will let you set the gains for the front and rear independently, so you can balance out the sound if need be.
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      07-11-2013, 10:53 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali-323i View Post
Exactly, you could end up using it as a 5-channel amp though, and bridge the last 2 channels on the amp to a single channel for a sub.

But since you'd prefer to amp the sub separately, I'd not bridge the front / backs together unless you have a specific use for the other 2 channels. Might as well use all 6 channels if they're available. It will let you set the gains for the front and rear independently, so you can balance out the sound if need be.
Yeah, i'd like the option to balance out the front and back to get it to sound just right. Thanks for the help dude! Is this an overkill to power that sub?XD1000/1v2

I'm asking too many questions, thanks for all the help guys!
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      07-11-2013, 10:57 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LEVENDIZ View Post
Yeah, i'd like the option to balance out the front and back to get it to sound just right. Thanks for the help dude! Is this an overkill to power that sub?XD1000/1v2

I'm asking too many questions, thanks for all the help guys!
I THINK the W7 handles 1000W, so that amp would be a good match. Double check that though.

Either way, even if the amp and sub are well matched, I still do think it is overkill. That's a LOT of power. I used to have a 1200W amp powering a 15" sub, but it was only a Thump Amp. That thing still pounded like crazy. JL amps are MUCH louder than that...

I'd say you only need 250-300W to power a Sub, but you want to match your sub and amp. So either you go W7 and it's a bit overkill, or get a W3 and have something that is tailored to your needs.

See if anyone else feels differently, but that's what I think. At the end of the day, overkill still works... just your wallet is a little lighter.
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      07-11-2013, 11:01 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali-323i View Post
I THINK the W7 handles 1000W, so that amp would be a good match. Double check that though.

Either way, even if the amp and sub are well matched, I still do think it is overkill. That's a LOT of power. I used to have a 1200W amp powering a 15" sub, but it was only a Thump Amp. That thing still pounded like crazy. JL amps are MUCH louder than that...

I'd say you only need 250-300W to power a Sub, but you want to match your sub and amp. So either you go W7 and it's a bit overkill, or get a W3 and have something that is tailored to your needs.

See if anyone else feels differently, but that's what I think. At the end of the day, overkill still works... just your wallet is a little lighter.
I'll have to have a think about it, i like a big thump with not many vibrations in-between.. a nice solid base and i think the W7 would definitely bring just that but maybe the W3 will too. Too many options for my liking!
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      08-04-2013, 10:59 PM   #37
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Hey guys, the speaker replacement list is kinda outdated lol, i need a 8" replacement mid-bass speaker what have people used lately that are still available in store?

Thanks
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      08-05-2013, 01:34 AM   #38
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Jenhert, Gladen, Earthquake appear to be the main ones in production now. Actually I'm not sure if the Earthquake still are. I wanted flat response up to 200hz without EQ, so the Earthquakes weren't on my short list.
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      08-05-2013, 01:51 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nato-main-man-5am View Post
Jenhert, Gladen, Earthquake appear to be the main ones in production now. Actually I'm not sure if the Earthquake still are. I wanted flat response up to 200hz without EQ, so the Earthquakes weren't on my short list.
Do you have model numbers for the jenherts and gladens?
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      08-05-2013, 10:45 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LEVENDIZ View Post
Hey guys, the speaker replacement list is kinda outdated lol, i need a 8" replacement mid-bass speaker what have people used lately that are still available in store?

Thanks
The jehnerts are the best option so far, especially if your going to be using them for midbass. You should consider getting the jehnert flatline kit. Its a 3 way speaker set that comes with the underseat subs, door speakers, and tweeters, it is designed for our cars so it comes with all the mounting adapters you need. If your interested look up unexpected creations and email them. The xd 600/6 is the amp pretty much everyone uses here. Also I think you should get the w7 if you like alot of bass. The trunk is sealed pretty good from the cabin so it is a little harder to get good output from your subs.
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      08-05-2013, 10:48 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali-323i View Post
Do you have model numbers for the jenherts and gladens?
Jehnert XE200. I have them and they are great for mid bass. If you have a trunk sub they are the way to go.

Have you took a look at kaigoss's thread about the hybrid audio underseat subs that are being made? Should be a very good option when they are finally done.
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      08-05-2013, 11:12 AM   #42
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Vp had a thread about German Maestro

Vp had a thread about German Maestro
He said they had the low end of SWS with the High end
of Jehnerts. He had to do some major cutting on the enclosures
to get them to fit though.
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      08-11-2013, 12:17 PM   #43
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Best Simple Adivce

Hi There,

I am new to this forum and i'm from the UK, so don't really know what and where to look on this forum just yet.

I have a BMW e92 320d M Sport with the BMW Professional Stereo System.

I would like to upgrade this system so I can still use the original head unit but have louder deeper bass, and clearer mid's and high's.

If someone could please help me with what I can do to achieve this then that would be fantastic.

Direct replacements are what im after and any suggestions to what speakers to use would be great.

Thanks,

Tom
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      08-11-2013, 01:55 PM   #44
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Read this thread

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641323

The head unit does not determine which system you have.
Identifying whether you have tweeters or a center dash speaker will .

If you study the above thread most all of your questions will be answered.
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